davie

Quick hijack on topic here, does anyone know when the defenders went accross from the usual arrangement on front bearings, ie can be done with hub nut spanner and a screwdriver through it to tighten bearing in, onto the current one where its torqued up with the shims? I have to do my front brakes shortly and dont fancy buying a new socket to do it cause i am not entirely sure on whether i have old or new method. Its a 2003 td5 90 csw. Many thanks all

could i please have two baseball caps

i have an ashcroft transfer box and would definetly reccomend them to anyone

i did exact same once, couldnt figure out for life of me why my front brakes wouldnt bleed and feel firm after discs/pads/calipers. Put a couple of litres of brake fluid through and then gave up, drove (bad with dodgy brakes i know but only 1 mile at 30mph) and mechanic took 1 min to spot my error. Both on wrong side so nipple at bottom. Wont ever make that mistake again

thanks western, do you know if the wire is wrapped up in one of the bundles there or on its own - also where does it head to once in engine bay? Am saving this fun job of wire tracing for my bro, he owes me after 10 hrs sanding door frames I hate that job!!!!! Figure if i find out roughly where for him to look its almost fair. Good tip on the two metres of wire to pull through, would hate to see end dissapear into doorpost. Guess i will make sure its well and truly taped on before i start pulling it through. David

Hi erroll, Thanks for the idea, will hopefully try that tonight, now you mention the door not quite closing right does make me wonder if its anything to do with worn bottom hinge! I should point out my theory was entirely best guess stuff, based on having no door switches=all ok, rear door switch=all ok, rear and passanger door switches=all ok, then add drivers one to that and the misery returns, take drivers one out after a week of alarm sulking and interior light coming on randomly while driving down the road and all is ok again. So my basic fault finding got me this far, and thats definetly the extent of my electrical knowledge. Cheers for your help though, will post back once i have done it. David

Hi Folks, As part on the never ending nightmare with my alarm system i have now narrowed it down i think to the drivers door pin switch wire. When i put in a brand new switch the alarm starts misbehaving again and i get mislock problems with central locking. Take the switch out, tape over connector and all has been well for 2-3 weeks now. So i guess i need to find where this wire is shorting out/rubbed through or some other equal nasty. However the problem is i dont have a clue where to start looking for it, all i can see is it dissapears into the bulkhead/door post area among the wires from the door never to be seen again! Does anyone know where this runs? I plan to follow back to sourse and replace with new wire/connectors as required so need to trace it. Its a 2003 td5 defender csw Many thanks David

I have seen people using irwins sockets on very damaged bolts with lots of happyness. Dont know exactly what they are called but i typed irwin into ebay and found them. Fluted design inside them so they grip harder onto damaged heads.

X eng do what looks like a very nice set with anderson connecters fitted - been very tempted by them myself a few times, just so far taking the cheap option of lifting seat to get at battery but one day i will get round to sorting out anderson connections for mine, most likely by buying a set of leads of si

I can recommend 4 x lites on light bar, thats what i have on my defender. 2 x spot and two fog/flood types. I have the two spots wired to come on with main beam and also with a seperate off switch so its main beam only. The two fogs i have wired in just to be an on/off switch for either off road or i use them as work lights at the front. All of the azmouth type. Drilled a hole in roof to take wires in, lots of sealant and its fine.

I have a milwaukee one (spelling sucks) and its lovely, used it for some weird jobs too - driving in 6 inch long coach bolts through railway sleepers and fence post, sure did that nicely. Lil heavy but works perfectly.

i had my trailer insured for theft when it wasnt hitched to landy, think it was with towergate clark, but will dig through old paperwork tommorow and see to be sure, was about £180 a year. Now with nfu in 2nd year and they let me insure same trailer for a really amazing price per year, but wouldnt allow it in first year of landy insurance with them. As far as security goes i am paranoid i guess. currently has a locking wheel nut on every wheel - a insurance approved wheel clamp, an insurance approved hitch lock. lives behind a chained off entrance with steel posts cemented in. about to add a fence to make it so that anyone trying to lift with a hiab would have to lift 6 foot lower than road level and about 10 foot away from a road. Also going to be chained into the ground with a chain buried in cement with 2 steel pins driven through the chain in an X shape over 18 inches down at least. Bloudy big chain and padlock also. So hoping that makes it at least akward for theives. When its parked anywhere on landy its on with hitchlock which secures it to landy and wheel clamp

Thought i should update. Thats 8 days since i removed the rear door switch and its been sooooooo peaceful, not a single alarm activation. Kinda sad though cause its led onto another problem, water leak somewhere around the rear cappings or roof. door switch was green and corroded when i took it out and much wetness just below cappings. Ahh the joys of landrovers!!! Happy me though, passed its mot yesterday with no worries..............even if the old one ran out feb 2 OOOOOOPS ME davie

thanks for the ideas, thats the rear door switch removed and it looks pretty green and horrible all over the metal contacts so i will wait a day or two and see if there is any change. only other thing i remembered today was autologic asking the mechanic if the hazard lights flashed when alarm was going off - they do. Dont know the significance of this but will see if anyone has any ideas? Davie

duhh me - its a 2003 defender. How would i find out what alarm i have? - all i know is its the one that was in when i bought it. Am guessing to disable a door switch i have to take the trim panels etc off? Ahh more broken clips await me. davie

Hey Folks, Desperate for help here with an alarm issue. For the last month its been going off randomly after i have set it with fob and gone away. Parked different places - different times and so on, no difference. Its been plugged into autologic and all that showed was the last few activations, latest being the volumetric sensor, so i borrowed a known good one for a few days - no change. Autologic have suggested to garage that it must be an ecu/spider fault and be best to change both to cure. Its an expensive gamble without definite proof of being needed/going to cure it. The only other thing we have found is once the alarm activates and i ignore it when i return to car the doors are unlocked but when i open door the alarm sounds. Any ideas?? Thanks Davie

Hi Folks, Bit of a new and random problem with my 90. for the last week or so the alarm has been randomlly going off, doesnt seem to matter whether its been used or not, where its parked etc. All windows and doors shut properly along with bulkhead vents so nothing totally obvious to me. Am away with work tonight so have locked it on the key praying it will stay quiet and that my hotel is literally in middle of nowhere so nobody will break in!!!!! Any ideas where on earth to begin looking? the only thing i have messed with in last few weeks is the rear door light switch, was corroded and light wasnt always coming on so i took out, cleaned up, hosed down with wd40 and stuck back in - light now works fine. Will get a chance to read/reply tommorow night but all help is great. its a 2003 td5 defender Davie

Hi folks, Help needed with finding size for a fitting please. I am hoping somebody else on here bought one of the powercraft compressors from aldi last year when they were on offer? I killed the nozzle on my blowgun yesterday and thought oh well will just buy new one, however when i bought one tonight it appears they dont use a standard size fitting to attach to air line. The shop sold me a nice gun by sip and quickly confirmed the fitting on my current gun is also 1/4 inch so would be no problem to take fitting out of my dead gun and screw into new one so i could then attach to hose suppled with compressor - however the thread on new gun 1/4 bsp seems a lot finer than the 1/4 inch thread on gun that came with aldi kit - does anyone know what thread size it actually is? might save me another 40 mile round trip tommorow into traffic hell!!! Can put up a photo if anyone wants one Cheers davie

couple caps also

about 1.30am or so this morning

Happy new year all Just had an excellent drive home after a shift with red cross - the 4 x lites on the roof made snow driving sooo much easier. May post photo if they have come out

I bought mine from local autoglass type company for my 90, seem to remember including fitting was about £250 - this didnt include the electrics ie relays etc. The relay came from landrover so it was only ignition live, ie only worked when engine running and it wasnt the cheapest part ever. Switch also came from landrover so it kept the dash looking tidy, i didnt wire in cause all that would have caused is a fire but local garage did it and didnt hate too much. Best thing i have done for winter driving.

another vote for the X-Eng lights, truly brilliant. I have 4 of them on my 90 roof.

Hopefully the photo attached makes sense to my ramblings. Switches are inserted into cubby box, then wires run out through hole drilled in base to run under box - much tidier, then relay attached to the bulkhead area somewhere or wherever you find a tidy space. So virtually no wiring seen. The two rear switches seen in photo control the X lites i have - sooooo nice for night driving, definetly worth buying!

Hi there, I got a set of these fitted recently also - lovely now in winter! Do you have a cubby box fitted? If so what we did with the switches supplied in kit is to mount them just in front of cup holder slots in cubby, run wiring underneath it so all quite tidy. Can post a picture later if you want to see it done. Davie