davie

medical insurance to include body/parts returned to home address......

its a pity mine runs out at end of september as the idea of a monthly direct debit appeals a lot, spread the cost. Thats assuming its not suffering a massive premium for the privelige!

Think from memory when i had my roof off, sides etc seperated to replace the cappings and seals we used two tubes of tiger seal. it got put everywhere we could get it and then some. but still dry now 3 years on.

thats great news you got it out, sure sounds like it was a pain of a job.

think the idea was a lot of local heat on weld, so transferred down bolt well and the tap back/forward could be tiny or proper hard. wish i had asked blacksmith why flat bar instead of a nut but he is very very good so must be a reason. perhaps cause with bar you could see if bolt was moving or weld was failing and add more as requred, maybe saved on the breaking bits off, not sure.

if you have access to some flat bar, say 5mm thick or so say 6 inches long and inch or so wide drill a hole in it same size or tiny bit bigger than remains of bolt. slide plate onto bolt in hole and crank welder up to full and weld on solid. now tap back and forwards a bit at a time to crack rust/hold and see if you can get it moving. gives you a chance to put some serious heat into it and then shock loading it. all depends on clearance as i dont know what space is available but seen blacksmith use this to free broken bolts that are just above flush into a hole, with big welder you can get mega heat into it.

having had roof off on my 90 to cure water leaks and replaced cappings i found on re assembly tiger seal in large amounts was a sure fire way to keep water out, all new seals and loads of tiger seal

oh dear god ouch! not even sure we want to know which pink fleshy bit that is - apart from bbq now

from prolonged and annoying experience with this i cured mine last time, all three door switches in the skip, replaced with new ones and both interior lights replaced as they get water in from above, short out and set alarm off. all cheap to replace with genuine parts.

dont know anything about electrics etc but my 2003 td5 90 has exactly what you are after i reckon buried in it somewhere. when i leave a door/doors open the interior lights switch off after 10 or so mins so hopefully somebody more clever than me that knows a td5 can find it.

couldnt quite bring myself to post asking hows the tarmac!!! hope all ok nige

well today was first use of the oilsafe and all i can say is what a great peice of kit, makes me wish i had bought ages ago. very impressed. just dont do what i did and buy 2 jugs one lid as neither i or the nice lady i spoke to at difflock figured this would be a problem as pump seals jug wrong you need a lid per jug. new lid be here tommorow hopefully but as all that meant was when done i had to tip remaineder back into 5l bottle to come home it wasnt a problem. very very happy indeed.

bought from difflock, they are currently updating website so you have to phone them. they then e mail out whatever you ask for, have been very helpful so far indeed!

well took plunge and ordered one today. one pump, 2 5 litre pots and one lid. theory being that pump will act as lid on other.

sounds good to me then, was going for the 5 litre versions. one for atf and one for ep.

i am considering the purchase of a difflock oilsafe kit and wondered if anyone has got one/used one? what are feelings on it - good or bad? Cheers davie

i have mine in cubby box in the cup holder area which has recently been modified for cubby box removal. along with switches for x lites on roof. modified box by doing away with 2 screws that hide under cup holder for removal and putting a third one inside opening section of box and screwing cup holder permenantly down into box to save disturbing wiring and then added a strip of connectors on rear of cubby box so all i do is undo three screws, row of wires and lift box out. because i hate wiring i labelled all wired with cheap tags starting at driver seat, one to 9 or whatever but didnt do in order of wires, more like which pin they slid onto so i think mine go one, threee, four, five etc so its pin numbers you go by. works really well and mounted the two relays for seats under the cubby box to keep tidy with just fuse holders visisble in case needed. can pop up pictures in a while once i go charge phone for camera.

hmm x like, definetly heated washer jets, as the amount of crud on screen at times would be soo much easier to clean off especially when freezing on. a solution to demisting side windows in defender that was easier and neater than huge hole in side with holesaw - oooh how i see me messing that up. and if x eng were to get brave solve design challenges like sorting out my poxy spare wheel carrier so wheel moves in closer - will pop up photo later, would make hooking on log splitter tons easier.

thanks bowie those may help, wishing i could find a strip where i had 2 x rows of 12 connectors that i can just fit with spade connectors that can be screwed to bulkhead. mainly cause i am rubbish with electrics so the simpler the better without going as basic as the chocolate block 2 screw connectors.

Hi All i am trying to sort out a small issue i have with my defender, currently my heated seats and roof lights are wired into switches mounted in my central cubby box but if i need to remove the cubby box its a lot of hassle disconnecting and re connecting the switches. so i wanted to wire in the switches as normal and onto bulkhead area screw a terminal strip so if needs removing its just unplug 12 spade connectors, and lift box out with all switches etc still in it. so i need a terminal strip, i found the one below sold by farnell but sadly i dont need to spend enough to qualify for minimum card order so need another supplier. anyone got any pointers, need to have a minimum of 12 wires running to/from it. like one in link http://uk.farnell.com/elkay/2001-4-cg-4/terminal-block-tab-4way/dp/1178387?Ntt=1178387 need to find in next week or so. cheers david

my best advice would be go as deep/wide as you can, use really good thickwalled steel and chains/locks you can. if concreting in use a real good strong mix in hole, make it wet so you can pound in lots and lots of rocks that can be scrounged from local farmer as land gatherings so usually free, the blunt end of a fence post works well for this and its amazing how much you can pack in there.

cant help as me and electrics are worst enemies but be glad it flashes at all, very used to my 90 doing as it should with trailer on and when i have to tow with works ford ranger its no fun at all because there is nothing to tell you there is a trailer connected, so no lil trailer sign on indicators to let you know trailer electrics working. Freaks me out. oh i guess my only helpful point is dont do what previous owner of my 90 did and scotchlock into rear light unit wires all over the place to make a trailer socket work, took me an age to take apart and heatshrink over where the scotchloks were to seal up, this despite all they needed was to plug in proper landrover socket into existing harness. bet it took longer to botch it in time value than just buy proper kit which has given no worries in 6 years or more.

takes me an average of 8 - 9 hrs to peterborough, 8 if i go with mate, sankey trailer and tent, 9 if i take caravan and gf/behave on road there.

totally agree on the go out part, makes a huge difference. i put in 2 steel posts initially to hold a chain over an entrance as a visual deterent and stop parking and somebody hit one with a vehichle, bent the inch square post and moved it in concrete way too easily. New version is in 3 feet of concrete deep and has box section welded to bottom as a foot criss crossing 2 foot each way so takes a huge hold. Might have gone shallower but had jcb dig hole so went for it! the width does the job

before anyone asks yep having a cold drink and was scary hot log splitting all day, lr content guess is its towed by landy and used winch to pull trees up slope pre meeting tortured splitter