Scooby Jim

When I get it I will say how much I paid Would the V8 not have enough grunt, as to be fair it would only be needed on motorways, and its only an 88. Or would my box carp itself??

I have managed to source an Overdrive for my Landy (will post pics when i get it), but what difference will it make?? I have a Rover V8 out of an SD1 so 9.35:1 comp ratio, changed the series diffs (exploded) to disco 10 spline ones, and am considering fitting the overdrive to that setup. What difference will it make in real terms, will there be any problems/difficulties associated?? I'll have to get used to driving the Landy anyways, as I have never driven her, so won't feel any different. What you guys think?? Will be picking it up Thursday, here are the pics from the seller.

I'll be there but with my other toy

Tbh the top looks like the standard door, only the glass is smaller, and the frame internally has larger top corners for captive bolts.

Shame I couldnt get it copied in a 3D printer lol

You tell me EXACTLY where to measure, and I'll do it. I really would have rathered a new one, but needs must. SP Land Rovers supplier already has the toolings and patterns but for some reason they won`t make them. See here. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89485&hl=

Well I have fitted it but going to need some jiggery pokery to get 100% right as it need to raise the door up 2-3mm, and the CB mount has to be moved as it hits But tbh I'm really happy still.

Well here are my first pics of the catflap, and I'll take some better ones tomorrow, maybe even fitted Rather happy tbh, it has a bit of surface rust, but nothing a rub back and some KuRust won't solve.

It was a surprise too, just hope it doesn't get damaged in transit now. Thank god for badly listed items. If you have can you let me know cheers.

As above, I have FINALLY managed to track down a cat-flap for my Landy Managed to find this on Ebay Just need to track down the fittings from inside the sides now, but I'm happy. It's a crying shame that there is no "off the shelf" replacement, but I'm sure if enough were to become noisy then the manufacturer would pull their finger out. It should be delivered Saturday or Monday, so fingers crossed it's all still in one piece.

I have one of these on standby Anyway seeing as I have my days off I will be making some progress, I have to sort my Subaru (replace exhaust manifold and exhaust), and give it and my Vectra an oil change. BUT I have done some things, I bought some cobalt drill bits so I could drill through the massively thick transfer plate (my drill bits are old and carp), so thats drilled and tapped. And now looks like this. So now ready to glue, then remove the one on the Landy now, and replace with these.

What you guys think to this question. Would tigerseal, or chemical metal, be best to seal and hold the disk in place on the top of the cover?? I want something that will seal, but also not peel off like tigerseal, the underside of the disk will have Hylomar Blue (I love that stuff).

Nice and easy tbh, had a LOT worse with a Subaru gearbox. Just now I know how it works, as I kind of took the whole cover off intact. So was kind of inevitable that I was going to drop the ball bearing inside. This is my spare gearbox that I was given, so its spares. I will check mine that is nice and tight and strip it down before removing the top cover, then that way with all the rearings out I just need to stop dirt getting inside. I have done the first breather, took the disk and cut a slot in the side, drilled a hole for the breather and put a screw and washer in the original hole. The breather was fitted and the lock nut is nice and tight with some thread lock, the nuts are super tight and the fitting has a rubber seal. Then I thought that I would bend up the flap I just created, so IF the lock nut comes off, it cannot go anywhere, so I can remove the disk and refit the lock nut again. Should do the job Just need to find my tap for the thread to fit it to the transfer box. The company on Ebay mixed up my order so sent the wrong breathers (plain silver ones next to the Y connector), so I emailed them and they sent me the 90 degree ones gratis, including 2 extra, and they allowed me to keep the wrong fittings.

Taken the cover off my spare box and lost one ball bearing inside the box lol. But now I know how to remove the cover, its pretty easy. This luckily for me popped out as I was tapping out dirt from inside with a screw driver, so MUCH easier to tap a hole into, and then refit with some sealant Old box looks good, surprisingly.

Cool, that's how I see it going anyway. My point was if the central box has a hole in it, then surely I'll need to seal that, as to me it seems pointless fitting the breathers if there is a remaining hole in the top of the box/transfer. My main concern is not wading (although just in case), but more that they clog easily so fitting these will help stop the box becoming pressurised, and help lessen the patented Land Rover external gearbox self lubrication system.

So that box is best of getting sealed up then? Otherwise there will be a hole when the rest of the breathers are extended, so a bit of a waste of time, and I'm not going to run 3 breathers, that's ott tbh. Will take the front cover off the gear selectors on my spare and see whats what, maybe use that to fit the breather too, so I can do a quick swap, hopefully meaning less chance for balls and springs to go flying

Awesome, so the only issue that remains is the gearbox breather

Or as it works, to drill the hole slowly, and then tap it with a magnet around as I really don't wanna have to mess around finding ball bearings and springs. I may take my spare apart and have a look at that and then decide if I can be brave enough lol, as I'd have to do it in situ on the vehicle What is that central box with the slot head screws/bolts holding it on??

Cool cheers. Was hoping that the front cover would come off easily, but buggery lol. Can I remove the disk and then sikaflex it in place afterwards?? As i don't really want to have to play around with springs and so forth, but if thats the best way, thats the best way. I could drill in place then tap, but I really would not want the swarf falling inside. Anyone got any pics of one done?? As for the pipes I may just run the two up high and not join them, as I got the fittings just incase.

I am going to hopefully run some extended breather pipes for my gearbox, and I am after where is the best place. I know the front part is the round plate, but can that whole cover be removed so that the tap can be fitted, or do I have to do it in place (which I REALLY dont want to do)?? The other I'm assuming is the plate on the transfer box?? BUT what is the raised box inbetween the two?? These are pics off my spare/donor box. These are the fittings I have bought. Two of these, with some lock nuts. One of these. And 30m coil of red pipe, enough to re pipe the axle breathers and run up nice and high.

Get a www.photobucket.com account, then copy the code and paste in a thread.

That's just greedy having two in a container, what about us poor poor people with standard back doors who want a catflap?? Will post up in the defender forum if I get anywhere, if they come back and say they want a minimum number to SPLandRover then we can see whats what, but until then it's just a theoretical exercise. Which I hope will change.

Is there anyone else interested in a new rear catflap?? As if we can show interest then the manufacturers who supply SP may be more willing to make them. Well it's worth a shot imho. 1. Scooby Jim. 2. 3. 4.

Sent this email to SP Land Rovers a few days ago. And I had this reply. So some good news on that, that the rear cat-flap is able to be made, perhaps some noise and asking about it may get some made, so I replied. If you don't ask you don't get lol.

Seen this on a group on Facebook. Looks like a Defender, but seems like someone had the same idea .