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I am having a great deal of difficulty seeing anything at present............ Oh that will be the egg on my face Christ, i am in for some now......... He will never let me hear the end of it Hi Filipie, I will drop you a mail tonight. We are very much looking forward to this and any help or advice you can offer is greatly appricated. Speak soon Kind regards Jim Ps: We'll be easy to spot, Adrain will be the one laughing at me

The irony is, he his my Co driver Christ, i am now worried which way up he will be holding the map Anyone got some spare glasses Jim

Wrong event Mate........ We are doing this one : www.rainforestspain.com Sounds a lot of fun, 5 days racing without outside assitance in +35Degrees B) meaning you have to carry all your fuel, parts, bedding etc... Amazingly though you do not carry your food as Fires are strictly banned as are gas stoves and cookers due to the risk of fire. So to make sure no one is tempted to do anything stupid they supply the rations...... If you make it to the the check point Can not wait, should be three British teams going, if anyone else is intrested pm me. Jim

I have been running hydrualic bump stops for about 18 months and they are awesome. However, do buy the best you can afford and do buy the biggest diameter you can safely fit. We use 2.5 inch dia with a 4 inch stroke and they are awesome. The big problem is knowing how to fit them as there are not hard and fast rules on mounting these bad boys and very few who could offer advice. We choose to mount them in the chassis rails at the rear and so they are in front of the axle this meant we could weld ur bracket to the axle and use spacers (if required) to adjust the height. At the front they are positioned where the shocks would normally sit as our shocks are 14inch travel and are mounted infront of the spring seat. Most manufacturers of these type of bump stops sell mounting tubes that can be bolt or welded to the chassis as required. We use King and they suit our purposes very well, although i am aware of other cheaper units failing (Pm me as i am not prepared to name and shame them in public) Once you have them you will never go back, they are lovely Jim

Series 11 wipers to try and remove moisture Defender standard jack for changing wheels LOL

No is the honest answer... Although expect to be up around 30-40% faster. Yes it really does make that much difference Jim Ps: One thing some of the Aussie teams do to that is to blow low pressure high volume air through the motor to remove Carbon dust. Most tend to just remove the end housing after the days play is finished, and blow out the motors with an air line.

I think this is the one that Richard Ibberson wants to do (Been pestering me about doing it ) I will be speaking to him next week, i will ask if it is him. @ Jez: You are right it is more of a Safari than anything, but it does look a lot of fun Jim

Always friendly, always helpful... We will miss him Jim

Then how will you switch them A 24v contactor require 24v to switch it, eg: when you press the button on the winch control. If you use a 12v version then you can use 12v for the switching making the whole job a lot more simple Sorry if i have explained it badly Jim

Sorry Jim, This is incorrect. Use 12v Contactors to make things easier for yourself. The only difference between the 12v and the 24v DC88 (Albright) is the voltage required to switch them. If you use 12v contactors the switching wiring is very simple, if you use 24v you will need to fit a relay to convert your igntion feed to 24 v to switch the contactor, which is pointless. 24v through 12v motors is hugely popluar in Australia with almost everyone doing it, however they do have the advantage of decent freespools. "Whats that got to do with it?" You will struggle to destroy an XP motor with 24v through it when under load, but off load they have a tendancy to over rev and pop the armarture. The trick is to pulse the winch when paying out and listen to the motor, it will tell you if it is over revving. The other thing that is important is service your motor, you must keep it clean internally as this method does tend to be hard on the brushes (and Xp brushes wear fast anyway) just blow out the motor once in a while and make sure the brush holders are moving nicely and you will have no problems. "How long will they last?" Wayne Smith and Rowan Canavan (Top team in Aus) have been using the same pair of XP motors with 24v through them for almost exactly 2 years and they winch very hard. In fact, to give you an idea, This weekend was the Atetco Trophy in South Australia (Event where the top boys lock horns) I only know the top five placing (it only finished yesterday), but i can tell you that they where all using 24v through 12v motors...... They where also all using Gigglepin Twinmotor winches (I had to get that in ) I also speak to a chap form Mud Rhino in Aus on a regular basis and he runs an Xp winch with 24v through it and has done so for over a year with no problems. HOWEVER....... I do have a stack of knackered 12v Xp motors from trying this and other techiques so be careful. Jim Ps: I have some secondhand 55amp 24v alternaters that we removed to fit 80amp units 18 months ago, they are in good condition and ideal for a single motor set-up.

Interior mirror ? Rob, i had a real good look at Billing and i think it is a cracking little kit, Big thumbs up from me. Jim Ps: when could you deliver a set?

And he never paid the council tax or the maintainence.......... She did look a little shell shocked on Sunday, now i know why At least this time he did not phone up to ask where the Charcoal is kept... Jim

Great people, Great fun, Awesome event Have been attending since 1994 and have never seen a bar so well stocked as that of D&G tuning. Stunning trucks and really nice guys and girls. Am very tired but looking forward to the next one already. Only downside not finding time to go and have a look at Mouse I did laugh though when my little boy came back from the Devon stand with a huge Devon sticker on his back...Brillant Cheers everyone Jim Ps: Adrian, i can wait till Tay

The GPS waypoints are a bit.....Eerrrrrr.... Vague My all time favorite was about 5 years ago on the Snake pit challenge, myself and Karen spent a good hour looking for a waypoint that was about 200m out...... When i asked one of the Stryker boys what had gone wrong, he simply answered... "It's those Satalites, they keep moving" I near Mildly miffed myself Jim

Heard about this also, although i have not been told who it was, and nor do i want to know... I just hope someone has quiet word in there ear..... with a megaphone Jim

The only proper way is to dig out put down a membrane and then use vast quanties of road stone. If there are any water crossing use proper drainage pipes to avoid problems later. There is no easy answer. But if you only intend to use it infrequently then just drive sensibly, avoid wet areas. Dig drainage for all standing water and use common sense. Gamekeepers and farmers drive unmade tracks all year round by being sensible and not driving areas that are excessivley wet that would cause long term damge making it difficult to drive in the future. On one of our local shoots no vehicles are allowed with tyres larger than 235/85x16 which stops ruts becoming excessive in areas that have to be driven regardless. Have fun Jim

The event will only be advertised in LRO and then only right at the last minute The best thing to do is send Pro-trax a mail showing intrest in the event and see what you get back. If that fails, just post again and we'll try and help. Jim

If you keep telling everyone that beer supply is not going to last very long Looking forward to it. Jim Ps: Can not wait to see Dieters truck in the flesh, sounds awesome

Maybe

We did experiment with a hydraulic version but it was not pleasant when it dribbled down your ear.... After extensive testing we have found that named brands seem to work better than budget brands And that ear size does matter Thanks Tim....... There was us hoping to do an *Exclusive launch* at Billing and you've ruined everything LOL Jim Ps: We are taking pre orders....... Pps: There is also a freespool version availbale soon Ppps: No, the mainshaft kit is not required for this model

As JJ Keeley said in the finishing speech in 2006....... "The winner of this event is either the biggest liar, or the man with the biggest ego" At this point someone jumped and shouted "WELL DONE SIMON" Priceless Awesome event and a real Craig Bathtub does struggle though, as he finds it tough dragging his lardy arse through the tight spots Two words of warning... Tree stumps At least 35' tyres required or you will struggle in places as it is inpossible to avoid them in some places. Oh, and do bring headache tablets, just don't do a Neil Redpath and roll your car fighting your co driver for them Can not wait, i missed last year, but i am pleased to say that "Team Knicker sniffer" will ride again Contary tyo what you read above i have a Hungarian co driver this year, as i've worn out Bathtubs sister His wife though..... Can not wait Jim

Good question The answer is Yes Not the correct thread to continue on with this though. Am just seeking advice at present on which part of the forum to post the info, but it will be along shortly Jim Ps: Is it a bad time to say that the top four vehicles where also fitted with our trailing arms Sorry could not resist

*Note to anyone reading this This thread was created when a topic was split this thread was created by White90 not D90SV. -------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, The new lower housing assembly is expensive Carl you are right B) But then so is formula 1, ok so we don't the girls or the nice hats I will not bestow the virtues of it on this thread, it can wait But the price of the new lower end will be £1250+vat Jim

You are quite right. I am getting me Schnoor and me Nords mixed up Those Nord locks are almost impossible to get undone as they ramp up meaning you have to stretch the bolt to shift them. Awesome bits of kit, but have to be used in the right places. Jim