Bowie69

Depending on the engine spec (would need engine number to confirm....), you could be looking only 135bhp, comparing that to a Td5 with oodles more torque is not really fair - the TD5 will run rings round it.

I'd honestly not try splashing out on anything, for example, I am currently running 15 year old genuine LR leads that have been in three vehicles and had multiple different ends crimped on to them - and still fine. If you have specific leads that have failed, replace that lead, and then move on to the next problem. Same for the amp, try a known good one, people on this forum likely have spares kicking about you could buy/try for a tenth of the price. When you have it running right then think about splashing out, until then you are basically firehosing money on to the project without a clear idea of what is wrong... RPI like to trade on their reputation, but really most of their kit is overpriced, and their advice...... Can be questioned. They still recommend carbs, last I heard 🙄 All that said, if you want to spend money, there's no stopping you! But worth noting proper diagnosis is much better and cheaper than just shotgunning parts at a car.

Avoid RPI, please.

I'd be checking the dizzy cap, rotor etc

It could, what make leads are they? And if you pull it off does it make a difference to the running?

ah, here we go: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/113547-barn-door-1971-series-iii-88-rebuild/#comments

There was another one that appeared on here ~6 months ago, think it was an aftermarket conversion.

Also, leather in a damp defender? Won't last....

In case it is the chip: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/114478-bit-of-a-clear-out-for-2024/?do=findComment&comment=1078743

Would it go on sideways....

Thank you, I had looked at these in the past, but like you found them too expensive really, your find does make it cheaper. One question, have you used the app and was it any good/use?

That all sounds like a dead or unplugged MAF

Yep, full panel, and while doing so he'd 'acquire' a new to him 400 ton press 'from the scrapman' to do it with.

Is it a newly rebuilt engine? Just trying to work out why the oil isn't black...

Like for like, but a better thing to do is separate it, apply assembly lube, rafit and fit new clamp. Or just weld it up 😁

Yup indeed you did, I'm about 75% of the way there now

Not really, a garage would just crawl under, wire brush (unless you have already) and zap it in 30s or less, hand them some beer money and away you go. Not sure, could be burnt oil, I'd clean it off with brake cleaner/some other solvent and then see what returns.

Brilliant, just brilliant. I'm now furiously trying to think of something for Stephen to make for me 😛

Yup, ticky ticky. Nope, you can just zap it with some MIG, contrary to popular believe using mild steel wire on stainless exhausts is absolutely fine, just don't expect them to last forever, but the weld will pick up some of the stainless elements and likely outlast you, especially in a hot place like the header.

Was going to say the same, very tidy.

Talk to @ThreePointFive about double s.

As you have headers.... Well, they are noisier than normal manifolds for a start. I've run stainless, along with a good amount of copper slip I have had no issued with corrosion.

Yep, that's what I thought it was for too.

This is the same V8 I tried to start while running because I couldn't hear it To me though, the second video sounds like a small exhaust leak, nothing more sinister. Look for any sooty stains at all the exhaust joints, not just where it bolts to the head. Where it does bolt to the head, start from hold and use your finger tips to detect any passing gasses . Normally pretty obvious. Picking out this kind of noise is very difficult from a smartphone recoding, their mics aren't great and coupled with dubious audio compression means a lot of the actual sounds you think are there are just noise -this is why I didn't originally comment, diagnosing stuff like noises over the internet is incredibly difficult. You also can't tell where the noise is coming from, which is probably 80% of the diagnosis. If it is a mechanical tick then a long screwdriver can help.