Bowie69

If oil level is brown... that's not a good sign, should be a clear red in colour. I'd get it changed (and the filter) and fingers crossed it keeps it going for a while, but ultimately brown ATF is bad news

TBH, the 2.5l is slow (~80BHP or thereabouts?), and very very thirsty (<20mpg) whereas a V8 is at least fast, and gives similar mpg. My 2.25l series running road bias tyres only gets 17mpg, with a long journey, I am sure a V8 would get a similar figure if fitted in the same vehicle, especially megasquirted, as I get 15mpg towing with my 2.5t Range Rover!

Yep, as above, remove starter, I use a small piece of angle iron which grips two teeth and wedges very nicely in place

Well bring your tank guard with you

Well, I suppose it depends what you want for it...... any ideas? I am tempted TBH

That guard is from a V8 RRC, with the earlier metal tank.... Well, when you collect the Tbox and look at the tyres you can trial fit the tank guard at the same time if you like *edit* Just checked Microcat and the Disco /RRC plastic fuel tanks are identical part numbers.....

Now that is a bit odd, I was under the impression that all Discos did have the plastic tank.... Similar thread here btw: http://forums.lr4x4....2&st=0&p=130932 Do you know for sure it came off a Disco, or is that just what the seller said....?

Disco has plastic tank as well, so an RRC one that fits a plastic tanked RRC should fit a Disco as well. I think the main difference is the rear of the tank and how far it cames down, a small difference here will mean a large difference at the front of the guard.... And yes, I don't have a complete, working Range Rover at the moment It's been going under surgery recently, and these are bits I no longer require

Yup... 65l was the most I ever put in it And that looks like a stock fuel tank to me.

<£100 for gaskets, piston and replacement cylinder head, vs how much for a 4.6? Tough choice Looks exactly how my lightweight piston did.... just yours is worse First time it happened I took it all apart, found the problem, replaced piston, left the head well alone, and ran a bit of wet'n'dry down the bore before inserting the piston, bolted it all up and it'd been great Second time it happened (as I couldn't work out WTF the screw had come from in the first place) I pulled the head, tapped the screw out of the piston (still pretty screw shaped) and bolted it all back together, been like that for thousands of miles now Not suggesting you do this, but sometimes you can get away with more than you think... like maybe that cylinder head isn't scrap... a good skim and it may be alright, skim the other the same and you have a matched pair. Have you skimmed them before? If so did you allow for the extra thickness of the composite gaskets...? Just thinking of options Well done persevering

Is yours plastic and his metal? The tank guard, if a Southdown type, was designed for the metal tank only in the early days, and redesigned for the plastic one at a later date, so it fits both. If it is just that it is the plastic tank, then I have one here you can have, for the right fee Got the full tow pack and adjustable slider etc with it as well. As for the volume, the standard one is 90l, yes, but when the light comes on, my experience is that it still has about 25 litres in it.... *edit* I have a spare, known good plastic fuel tank if yours is no good (too big), I don't need it anymore!

It's not a new cam, it has ~5000 miles on it! Of course if you have new of both you can swap to a different style of lifters without issue.

Erm, I think we have a crossed wire here I was talking about swapping the entire axle (tube, diff, pumpkin, swivels, hubs, brakes etc) not just the diff /3rd member as the yanks like to call it. The LC80 axles are wider track, or at least when I looked closesly into it they were about 2" or so wider, of course I may be mistaken, it was ~18 months ago I looked into it As for strength, the difference in shock loading a 35" wheel or shock loading a 29" wheel is massive, and this is where a lot of breakages occur, rather than application of torque whilst driving it. *edit* LC80 axles are 63.5" wide, LR coil sprung variants are 58.5" wide, so that's 2.5" each side, meaning no need for silly offset wheels once fitted

Rear patrol is a centrerd diff isn't it? LC80 axles are the correct offset for LR fitment too

I believe so, yes.Look at the date of the original post

I'd check on that, my belief is that the lifters and cam need to bed in together, not just the lifters.

Factory lockers, wider track, reasonable ratio, and the main reason: HUGELY stronger than anything LR ever made, or probably ever will make.

Disconnect the downpipe rather than the manifold... three bolts vs 8, much easier to repair a manifold than the head too....

That sounds right, I had to empty all of mine (by removing the circlip) when re-setting the pre-load. Come on, whip the other head off when you have half an hour

New lifters = new cam I am afraid... TBH, my money is on a nut dropped into the other bank, I had one fall out of a carburettor butterfly on my lightweight, from a *new* carb (no wonder the throttle was sticky!) and it sounded just like that.... similar symptoms, wouldn't idle without throttle due to the increase in force required to turn it over and make the hammering noise.... Have you got the other head off yet? If not, try turning it over on the starter now, if it still bangs then....

You don't need to soak Rhoads lifters, in fact that won't do anything at all! http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Installation.html You can pump them up manually, but in the installation instructions I had with them it didn't specify anything, in fact I seem to remember it saying precisely not to do it! Certainly you need to set the preload before filling with oil! Rhoads lifters can also be used if you have an autobox to soften the cam at idle, stops it hunting/being really rough/stalling etc. Not sure of the spec of your truck so.... If it's a manual, I would tend to agree, you don't really need them with the relatively mild cam you run (compared to a whizzy 6000 rpm race jobbie).

Pretty sure they will, for example I have an RRC starter fitted to my 4.0 P38 engine using an RRC HP22 box and starter ring gear etc

It's for a V8, 3.5 I think judging by the distance between cylinders. If it's a decent gasket it will have 'top' stamped lightly into the black surface somewhere, look very carefully, they can be hard to spot sometimes. In fact, isn't that it, just under cylinder #3 in the second photo?

One word : MUPPETS.

You really really ought to change head gaskets you know, they are single use only... Do you have the tin ones or the composite? If composite go for Elring gaskets, V8Tuner and a lot of other places sell them.