Bowie69

Have you connected the small wire securely? This could give the symptoms you describe.

Well, the website, which using this fantastic site called Google ( http://www.google.com ) came up really quickly http://tinyurl.com/683yg8q Seems a bit odd that the site hasn't been updated, if the rules and regs are enforced rather than completely ignored, it may well be a better site. When I visited the number of permanent Police CCTV cameras in place on the route to the fields made me realise that there may have been trouble there long before I visited. Anyone been to Minety BTW? A group of friends go camping once a year, off roading and seems a good choice, any expereience/opinions?

Spotted this in my subscription email to the Aus rag '4WD Action', was pretty pleased for them, shame the now outed Communist Labour Party wouldn't bother listening to the electorate.

Always been a fan of the 'rollerskate' look of tiny rims but slammed to the floor VWs, and this looks similar. I quite like it actually

Now that looks like another cool motor to come out of that workshop

A man who's fastidiousness is only surpassed in part by my own!

Not sure, was on Bishbosh's bobtail/90...

Yeah, and I've seen POR on an axle, rusted through with surface rust in 18 months! I have 3 coats of hammerite on my Lightweights chassis, still looking good after 3+ years Honestly, unless your vehicle is an on-road tool only, chassis treatment should be once every year or two to keep on top of it.

Waxoyl is great for inside cavities, so calling it **** is not really appropriate.... I agree though it is not hard wearing enough for surface treatment, where schutz is a MUCH better option, on new/sound metal at least. On rusty/unsound metal hammerite is OK, but can chip easily depending on vehicle use....

'Most people' don't bother stopping unless the car won't go any further in my experience....

At more sever angles, they could run low on oil, as it rushes to the other end of the axle. Personally I would just run the front axle as the factory intended.

Yep, wish I'd never asked now Seriously, I used to work in a joinery, loved visiting the 'elephant shed' with the huge band saws in, teeth 1.5" deep...

Car diffs tend to be quite a reduction, from around 3 to 6 to 1 on average, however with one side held the other output will run at twice the 'normal' speed, so a 4:1 will act like a 2:1, run the diff backwards (i.e. put the power in through the halfshaft and out the prop flange) and it should work as a 1:2.... I think I am right in this, someone (I hope) will confirm in a minute I've no guarantees on the reliability of the above, as the diff is effectively working in 'coast' mode the whole time, however given the small amount of power/torque you are looking at using it may be OK for a long while. As for small cars, think Austin A35, Morris Minor, Marina, Chevette, Suzuki SJ's, in fact small 4x4's could be a very good/cheap source. There are also other options, self-contained diffs, like 4 wheel drive road cars, and some rear drive cars like the Rover P6, Jags, Impreza, Audi Quattro's of all flavours (80,90, 100 etc) Any clues as to what the project is?

You know the MOT inspection manual is availabel online nowadays? http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s01000701.htm No RFR as far as I can see.

Ah

Thanks Roary, very sad if true, but it's not entirely unexpected that someone has got seriously hurt there

No, they are hydraulic pumps, pressurising half of a nitrogen sphere, wasn't going anywhere with it, just saying RRC has the same setup as P38, in fact the pump/sphere is interchangeable

Simon, how about making the splines keyed, so it won't lock immediately, only once the vehicle is level. Should just be a case of filling in one spline and fettling the freewheel hub....? RRC is a boosted circuit too, but as most have proper engines (V8) a vacuum take off shouldn't be a problem.

If it fails, is it possible it fails in a very flexed mode? I.e. like when an ARB flips? Only ask as I understand it works on a spline.

They'll be fine

We are talking trailing arms, and drawing a comparison to the recovery point execution and fabrication, which is frankly unsafe. I agree, original ones can snap, but you won't end up in jail if they do, however if something you bolted to your truck failed and was not fit for purpose YOU will go to jail. Search Nigel Gresham if you need to be reminded of how badly it can go wrong.

Exactly, Retro.

I VERY STRONGLY disagree, see my comments above, and search the forum for more comments on them from me. If you have ANY doubt about the trailing arms, look at the recovery point, do you SERIOUSLY think this is well designed or executed? As an example of the engineering knowledge and execution I would not be bolting anything from Tarantula 4x4 to my truck. Just think, when you brake hard, where the forces are in that trailing arm... and the fact that the welded in bolt came loose and then tapped out on one of mine just by doing the nyloc up, and what would have happened braking hard say from 70mph.... at best you probably roll the truck, worse you kill yourself and or someone else. Truly not worth taking the risk!

Yes, they were horrid on the pair supplied to me, the bolt welded into the end started to twist when I hit the nylon in the nyloc..... the other one came out with a couple of blows with a lump hammer..... The welds were totally inadequate TBH , and having looked at his site in the past the designs and execution still leave a lot to be desired....

You'd normally connect the earth to one of the starter motor bolts, all the others you have marked on your diagram are not big enough or serve a higher purpose, like holding springs in or being the positive terminal! This is the ideal place, however as long as you have it well attached it should make little difference, and personally I would earth it straight to the battery, that way you have less potential connection problems due to corrosion.