Bowie69

<£100 for gaskets, piston and replacement cylinder head, vs how much for a 4.6? Tough choice Looks exactly how my lightweight piston did.... just yours is worse First time it happened I took it all apart, found the problem, replaced piston, left the head well alone, and ran a bit of wet'n'dry down the bore before inserting the piston, bolted it all up and it'd been great Second time it happened (as I couldn't work out WTF the screw had come from in the first place) I pulled the head, tapped the screw out of the piston (still pretty screw shaped) and bolted it all back together, been like that for thousands of miles now Not suggesting you do this, but sometimes you can get away with more than you think... like maybe that cylinder head isn't scrap... a good skim and it may be alright, skim the other the same and you have a matched pair. Have you skimmed them before? If so did you allow for the extra thickness of the composite gaskets...? Just thinking of options Well done persevering

Is yours plastic and his metal? The tank guard, if a Southdown type, was designed for the metal tank only in the early days, and redesigned for the plastic one at a later date, so it fits both. If it is just that it is the plastic tank, then I have one here you can have, for the right fee Got the full tow pack and adjustable slider etc with it as well. As for the volume, the standard one is 90l, yes, but when the light comes on, my experience is that it still has about 25 litres in it.... *edit* I have a spare, known good plastic fuel tank if yours is no good (too big), I don't need it anymore!

It's not a new cam, it has ~5000 miles on it! Of course if you have new of both you can swap to a different style of lifters without issue.

Erm, I think we have a crossed wire here I was talking about swapping the entire axle (tube, diff, pumpkin, swivels, hubs, brakes etc) not just the diff /3rd member as the yanks like to call it. The LC80 axles are wider track, or at least when I looked closesly into it they were about 2" or so wider, of course I may be mistaken, it was ~18 months ago I looked into it As for strength, the difference in shock loading a 35" wheel or shock loading a 29" wheel is massive, and this is where a lot of breakages occur, rather than application of torque whilst driving it. *edit* LC80 axles are 63.5" wide, LR coil sprung variants are 58.5" wide, so that's 2.5" each side, meaning no need for silly offset wheels once fitted

Rear patrol is a centrerd diff isn't it? LC80 axles are the correct offset for LR fitment too

I believe so, yes.Look at the date of the original post

I'd check on that, my belief is that the lifters and cam need to bed in together, not just the lifters.

Factory lockers, wider track, reasonable ratio, and the main reason: HUGELY stronger than anything LR ever made, or probably ever will make.

Disconnect the downpipe rather than the manifold... three bolts vs 8, much easier to repair a manifold than the head too....

That sounds right, I had to empty all of mine (by removing the circlip) when re-setting the pre-load. Come on, whip the other head off when you have half an hour

New lifters = new cam I am afraid... TBH, my money is on a nut dropped into the other bank, I had one fall out of a carburettor butterfly on my lightweight, from a *new* carb (no wonder the throttle was sticky!) and it sounded just like that.... similar symptoms, wouldn't idle without throttle due to the increase in force required to turn it over and make the hammering noise.... Have you got the other head off yet? If not, try turning it over on the starter now, if it still bangs then....

You don't need to soak Rhoads lifters, in fact that won't do anything at all! http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Installation.html You can pump them up manually, but in the installation instructions I had with them it didn't specify anything, in fact I seem to remember it saying precisely not to do it! Certainly you need to set the preload before filling with oil! Rhoads lifters can also be used if you have an autobox to soften the cam at idle, stops it hunting/being really rough/stalling etc. Not sure of the spec of your truck so.... If it's a manual, I would tend to agree, you don't really need them with the relatively mild cam you run (compared to a whizzy 6000 rpm race jobbie).

Pretty sure they will, for example I have an RRC starter fitted to my 4.0 P38 engine using an RRC HP22 box and starter ring gear etc

It's for a V8, 3.5 I think judging by the distance between cylinders. If it's a decent gasket it will have 'top' stamped lightly into the black surface somewhere, look very carefully, they can be hard to spot sometimes. In fact, isn't that it, just under cylinder #3 in the second photo?

One word : MUPPETS.

You really really ought to change head gaskets you know, they are single use only... Do you have the tin ones or the composite? If composite go for Elring gaskets, V8Tuner and a lot of other places sell them.

Have you connected the small wire securely? This could give the symptoms you describe.

Well, the website, which using this fantastic site called Google ( http://www.google.com ) came up really quickly http://tinyurl.com/683yg8q Seems a bit odd that the site hasn't been updated, if the rules and regs are enforced rather than completely ignored, it may well be a better site. When I visited the number of permanent Police CCTV cameras in place on the route to the fields made me realise that there may have been trouble there long before I visited. Anyone been to Minety BTW? A group of friends go camping once a year, off roading and seems a good choice, any expereience/opinions?

Spotted this in my subscription email to the Aus rag '4WD Action', was pretty pleased for them, shame the now outed Communist Labour Party wouldn't bother listening to the electorate.

Always been a fan of the 'rollerskate' look of tiny rims but slammed to the floor VWs, and this looks similar. I quite like it actually

Now that looks like another cool motor to come out of that workshop

A man who's fastidiousness is only surpassed in part by my own!

Not sure, was on Bishbosh's bobtail/90...

Yeah, and I've seen POR on an axle, rusted through with surface rust in 18 months! I have 3 coats of hammerite on my Lightweights chassis, still looking good after 3+ years Honestly, unless your vehicle is an on-road tool only, chassis treatment should be once every year or two to keep on top of it.

Waxoyl is great for inside cavities, so calling it **** is not really appropriate.... I agree though it is not hard wearing enough for surface treatment, where schutz is a MUCH better option, on new/sound metal at least. On rusty/unsound metal hammerite is OK, but can chip easily depending on vehicle use....