Bowie69

You should have no reason to limit the axle articulation even with standard props.

They are more than likely Renault/Peugeot parts, discussed here: http://forums.lr4x4....=1

Bish's fab fabbed up rear winch setup is here: http://forums.lr4x4....=1 His winch was mounted right behind the bulkhead (between the roll hoop mounts actually), easy reach for freespool/watching rope being spooled back in :)Actuially, you can see the winch in his for sale post: http://forums.lr4x4....opic=53877&st=0 Oh, and the search revealed the mounting plate too: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=37288&st=0&p=358000&hl=fairlead&fromsearch=1entry358000

Remember, you can't change the transfer box end bolts without removing the drive flange, so you will probably only need 8 bolts but 16 nuts. Most places allow you to order them separately.

It should lock up, I have driven my Borg Warner box breifly with no front prop on and had no problem getting drive -only for a couple of hundreds meters of course They normally failed locked, but can fail open, which may have happened here. The other option is that if the rear prop *IS* turning, you have a snapped halfshaft/blown diff in the rear axle -engage drive and get a mate to check underneath to see if the prop is spinning.

Same size, but if they have been there a while it's worth replacing, especially the nyloc nuts, which are officially single use only...

Good news Max Yep, moral of the story is that LRs rarely have just one thing wrong with them

You got new nuts and bolts?

The problem is, the wire is clipped in place under the dash, so rather hard to pull it through, especially as the plug is pretty big as well, I tried, dailed and then pulled the dash apart!

The connector, with that plate removed, I still had to remove the dash....

It's not there though, you need to dismantle the dash!

Ah yes.... was with him on a Drive Round Day at Bamptom before Christmas, when he blew a CV

Noddy as in Nodification?

Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut, if it turns initally without too much effort, plug it in and go with it -though I would think about priming the oil pump, as it could well have leaked down in 2 years... I had a 957cc fiesta engine that got water in a plug hole whilst sitting under a bench, this clearly was not good for it, as it took a really good heave to get it to free up, no idea what it looked like inside, but it gave me another 10,000 miles before the car itself went for scrap, the engine was still going strong, albeit needing a topup every thousand miles, and a bit smokey on overrun... but the engine ran fine, even with the valves permanently dancing around on the bonnet

It does sound like your hub is knackered, probably due to the wheel bearing failing, overheating and wrecking the hub....

Cheers

I thought 'Nice light pod!'

I thought SimonR had come up with another prototype product for a moment then..... what do you reckon, sue LR for stealing his branding

Any suggestions as to where you can get MAC valves? I can't seem to find any retail/distributors/trade places online... Thanks

Well he said it fireballed out the plum in the first post

Exactly what I thought....

If it's an RRC VC then once it has slipped slightly it should lock up as the fluid in it heats, negating any speed differential between front and rear axles, and probably ripping the handbrake mechanism from the back of the transfer box. I have seen but never practised knocking an LT230 out of difflock and applying the handbrake to perform a tight turn on loose surfaces, but never with a VC in the middle.

The bob weights are under the plate in the dizzy, they provide mechanical advance based on engine speed, when removing the rotor arm it is VERY easy and common to knock them off and then you have a dizzy producing all sorts of advance when it shouldn't be.... A fuel pressure regulator doesn't need to have been drowned to start leaking, you gave a symptom, the plenum full of fuel, the most likely cause of this is a leaking FPR. To test, pull the tube off the back of the plenum and turn the ignition on, if it is wet with fuel/pissing out then this is your problem.

A leaking fuel pressure regulator can fill a plenum with fuel... it enters via the small tube on the back of the plenum. I suspect your mate has knocked the bob weights off in the dizzy, a simple enough fix, just dismantle and remantle, takes around an hour including re-timing the engine up.

I used 6mm rivets in mine, fitted the original holes nicely.