Bowie69

Cheers

I thought 'Nice light pod!'

I thought SimonR had come up with another prototype product for a moment then..... what do you reckon, sue LR for stealing his branding

Any suggestions as to where you can get MAC valves? I can't seem to find any retail/distributors/trade places online... Thanks

Well he said it fireballed out the plum in the first post

Exactly what I thought....

If it's an RRC VC then once it has slipped slightly it should lock up as the fluid in it heats, negating any speed differential between front and rear axles, and probably ripping the handbrake mechanism from the back of the transfer box. I have seen but never practised knocking an LT230 out of difflock and applying the handbrake to perform a tight turn on loose surfaces, but never with a VC in the middle.

The bob weights are under the plate in the dizzy, they provide mechanical advance based on engine speed, when removing the rotor arm it is VERY easy and common to knock them off and then you have a dizzy producing all sorts of advance when it shouldn't be.... A fuel pressure regulator doesn't need to have been drowned to start leaking, you gave a symptom, the plenum full of fuel, the most likely cause of this is a leaking FPR. To test, pull the tube off the back of the plenum and turn the ignition on, if it is wet with fuel/pissing out then this is your problem.

A leaking fuel pressure regulator can fill a plenum with fuel... it enters via the small tube on the back of the plenum. I suspect your mate has knocked the bob weights off in the dizzy, a simple enough fix, just dismantle and remantle, takes around an hour including re-timing the engine up.

I used 6mm rivets in mine, fitted the original holes nicely.

Very simple.....

Ditto, sounds like a UJ to me.

The slave got stuck a bit in the 'out' position, then slowly pulled itself back in re-filling the reservoir...

Just flog it on ebay, you'll get something for it...

I'd invest in the tools, if you can afford it, then everytime you use it it saves you money and owes you less!

Whilst we are on the subject, the recovery points don't look quite up to the job, you could integrate mounting points into the full width winch plate which would be a lot stronger than the tabs welded onto the end of the box section. Imagine if you had an upward or downward force on the recovery hooks... the plate would just bend up and maybe snap off or best case is your recovery strop can't be removed from the hook... An upward force is quite common when pulling someone out of a bomb hole for instance... 6mm plate, IMHO is a bit overkill, 4 or 5mm design correctly with an upstand front and rear would be more than enough, seeing as you have a 6mm piece of box underneath it, which you can additionally brace/bolt it to on the trailing edge.

You may be able to patch it with welding, do it carefully, gear oil will burn/explode if got hot enough Best solution is to remove half shafts, diff, (this you would do anyways to weld the pan, right...?) then pull the axle off, and get an heavy duty pan from Gwyn Lewis and weld that on -no need for a guard and dirt cheap really, just your time, and a good weld

Phew, thought I might have upset you then

If it has a Disco 200TDI conversion it's quite possible that it was fitted in one lump with a 1.2 ratio transfer box, which means it would accelerate more slowly than a standard 200TDI, if you have larger tires, this may be enough to stop it acclerating any more once you get to 60... I don't suppose you have any idea of engine revs...? The transfer box ratio is clearly attached to the box normally, with a metal-y sticker, would be worth finding that out before pointing at the engine being the source of your problems.

Imagine being 50ft up a long near vertical pull, and the welds let go.... I'll bet you wished you'd done it properly then. What you should have at the very least is a large plate, the width of the chassis rails, bolted down through crush-tubed holes with an upstand on the front to take the fairlead, this adds a huge amount of strength to the mounting. Google 'winch plate' for ideas. What you have made there is not only not strong enough, but very very dangerous.

Yes, me, try Academy : http://www.academyinsurance.co.uk/contactus.aspx

Thanks it misfires on petrol as well, but doesnt blowback, which was why i was going down the ignition route. also the sooted up plugs. Right, once you have the cap changed, I'd try and known good ignition amp, it's the only other thing that can cause this sort of misfires. Know that system well Sounds like it is setup pretty well too. To check, can you not just cable tie the ECU to the wipers and go for a drive? I am assuming it didn't backfire under heavy load, rather under coasting or light throttle? I am suspicious, as you say it is on petrol and LPG, that once you sort the electrics the problem will go away. Good luck

Glad I could help

I'd be surprised if you had damaged anything running it backward, you end up with just a weaker spark IIRC. There's two reasons for LPG backfires, one which you have started on is the electrics, the other is the LPG leaning out for some reason. From the electrics side I would go and get a genuine dizzy cap and rotor arm, if the rotor arm you have is a pattern part, throw it away, they are a big cause of running issues... Also, how old are the leads...? could be worth swapping them as arcing between the leads can cause the wrong plug to fire at the wrong time and therefore a backfire. From a fueling POV, I would change any LPG filters you may have in the system, and then get the mixture checked, any garage can do this, check it at idle and at 3000rpm to see if it is at least close. Check for air leaks after the mixer ring as this will weaken the mixture ( I am assumig here it is a single point rather than sequential...) Then go from there

I would think so, yes I'd be looking for 0.550" to be sure! As they are the later heads, then you should be able to see the step quite easily