66gaza

I always try to make all hoses out of stainless with only a small silicone straight at the end ( don't always manage it but thats my aim ), this way one small cheap spare can be used for several different locations. Gaza

Nice, when he posted about it an Pirate I asked if he could post some under bonnet shots but none were posted. Please tell me you took some? Gaza

Stick with the Lexus gearbox and remote mount a tcase for 4wd. Gaza

My 4BT has over 300ft/lbs and thats standard they can be tuned to 250HP and 500ft/lbs. A R380 has a max TQ rating of 380NM which is about 280ft/lbs I wouldn't reccomend one on a 4BT even if you could get an adapter. You would need a 1.22 LT230. Easiest route would be a 4L80E with a marks adapter to a LT230 or a TH400 if your WB is short as the TH400 is shorter and the adapter is shorter too. Gaza

The D90 and Disco have AFAIK have virtually identical chassis as far as the engine bay is concerned so the engine mounts for Shane's D90 (roverhybrids) would be the same as a disco's providing you use the same rubber mounts. Gaza

Most Cummins conversions are done in the US, especially the 4BT as they are rare in the UK (where are you from?) The best site is www4btswaps.com not many rovers on there but there is a good build thread on a 4bt into a 90. Also a 6bt into a rover camper (mine) you have to join to view the pics but it is free and quick to do so. What transmission were you planning on using? Do you already have a 4bt? here is a thead with a few pics of a 6bt in my rover http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry179573 I didn't want to post them again. here is 1 when it was nearly finnished . Near where I live there is a Cummins workshop, one of the blokes in there is a disco owner and he said he has seen a 6bt in a disco at Billing so a 4 should be easy. Gaza

I modified a Marks TH400 adapter, I posted a pic of it in situ in this thread. Gaza

Totally agree, why reinvent the wheel?. Rapier trailers have hydraulic brakes and I think the later wide tracks have discs. My rapier also rode very smoothly even when empty as the suspension was a large rubber ball that was compressed and because there was no spring there was no need for a damper. I remember reading a while back about a Merlin offroad trailer that was being towed around the world and they were forever repairing it, sankey trailers are quite heavy because they are built tough. Gaza

On my Rover camper I used a 20l jerry can as the fuel tank for my heaters. I used standard rover pickups ( I think I had to trim one slightly for length ) It wouldn't need any baffles and they are cheap. I just drilled a couple of holes at the top opposite the filler. I didn't need a return so if yours is a diesel you might need 3 , flow return & breather. It would have to go on the back but would take up very little space. Don't know how much fuel you would need during an event though. Gaza

Everything from the axle end out is standard 110, the 1/2 shafts are front sal specific though. Gaza

Just wondering if you are still planning on using that heavy yank manual gearbox Al as I could be persuaded to liberate it from you Gaza

Is this what you are looking for? ebay 170151279925 Gaza

For some basic info on the pros & cons of various drugs take a look here, http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/general.../pros_cons.html Gaza

This old post came up doing a search for something else, as I had made my isolators I thought a pic was in order. Can't really tell yet if they have made a difference as I have a new engine in and I have put sound proofing on the bulkhead I didn't have before. Anyway they were real easy to make I just quickly cut them out of a piece of conveyor belt with a jigsaw. They are a bit rough & ready but thats me. Gaza

Just thinking about what axles would be better/stronger than the standard rover ones on a 110. Not interested in portals as if this is built would spend most of its time on road but might have a big torquey lump up front. What about just sticking a front sal in? What about a pair of Dana 60s which can be built really strong or what about a pair of Toyota axles, but which ones and why? At this stage its all hypothetical so let your imagintions run wild. BTW I would prefer to steer clear of one off specials as I would want to do a budget build. Gaza

Where can I get some from, how much longer are they? how easy/hard are they to fit? I used to have wolf wheels and just put up with the fact the studs were a little short but now have some performance TX alloys and the wheel is thicker again and the nuts that are specific to this wheel just don't go on enough threads for my liking. So do I just need a lump hammer or a big vice or do I need a press to change them? Thanks Gaza

The hubs are all oil Bill, The rear failed due to the way it was widened, the extension was thicker on the inside and limited the oil flowing from the diff to the hub bearings. All 6 stubs and hubs are the same and therefore 1 spare fits all. Also my axles are from around '86 and don't have the oil seal the later ones have. Gaza

I have been running the wider spaced ones since day 1, just wondering if they were the best option still as I am always thinking about the next project. All 6 are the same and on the very 1st outing I had a bearing go from lack of lubrication, I just took the wheel off (back axle) , ratcheted the axle up a little and drove home in the middle of the night (90 miles) The bottom thread of the damper was a little chamfered were it had made contact with the road a few times.. The hub and stub were scrap. Since then I have carried a spare hub/spindle and wheel bearings but never needed them. My camper might be heavy but it will probably have less weight on certain parts than a heavy 110 or 130 as my weight is spread over 3 axles. Gaza

I would like to know what the panel thinks is the best and or strongest hubs for a Defender. I think they are the early 90/110 front ones as the bearings are slightly further apart I think the part No is HRC 1326 but don't quote me on that. I realise there isn't a big difference. So what do you think? Gaza

Anyone used or have any experience with these? They are made out of mild steel & reinforced. They are £80 + postage and I need 2 pairs. Gaza

here is a link to a pic http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136225115042569021oFQERr This should give you an idea of how they go together. I would imagine it to be a lot easier and cheaper than adding a supercharger. you would be keeping the original turbo and feeding it into a bigger one. in the cummins world people have had sucess with a wide range of turbos indicating the you have a range of larger turbo choice and size is approximate rather than exact. The size is roughly twice the CFM of the smaller one. Don't write it off so quickly, compound turbos will be the next thing for performance diesels. I think the diesel Audi that won le mans was compounded. Gaza

What about compound turbos? the smaller turbo boosts as normal and a larger turbo kicks in when boost rises giving you the best of both worlds. Its like VGT turbo but more so. They are DIY fabbed for cummins engines so can't see why you can't do a TD5. keeping boost down would be the biggest problem Gaza

Thanks for the reply, this is the problem though what they are supposed to be and what they are is not the same. I have just bought the exact same master cylinder as you have pointed out yet it is not 1.125" but 1" exactly or the 1 cast into it is confusing me. I did look at a CB SWB which is supposed to be 7/8" but had 3/4" cast into it, so they were both 1/8" smaller than they were supposed to be, go figure. Gaza

Give it a bit of a file 9preferably just the tip where you are soldering) then re tin it with a bit of solder. I use soldering irons at work & this is what I do. Gaza

The LWB S2A/S3A single cct non servo I bought is 1" bore (P/N 90569128) but on the above site it is supposed to be 1.1/8". Has anyone bought a CV type lately and can cofirm sizes, are the Lucas ones the same size as the non branded ones? BTW it fits and operates my clutch OK but is a little heavy so the 7/8" would probably be better. Is a Lucas 90569126 3/4" or 7/8" bore? Thanks Gaza