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I have a fear of the propane as a little seems good but too much = a new head gasket, trouble is whats too much. Gaza

I have toyed with the idea of running veg oil and occasionally propane, as propane is supposed to promote a complete burn and increase timing slightly which I understand is a good idea if running veg oil anyway. So has anyone ran these together? It seems like they might be good together. Gaza

I put a sumo disco drag bar on my Defender so that I could change over to the Disco drop arm and get rid of the Defender drop arm/POS ball joint, Had to use the bracket clamp for the steering damper, steering is much improved and now changing the balljoint out is a very simple job even in the field and I carry a standard left & right thread balljoint for all my steering as spares. 2 years ago we were driving to Aberdeen to catch the Iceland ferry and my mates circlip dropped out of his balljoint and he was all over the place when we got to Aberdeen there wasn't time to track a spare down so we got on the ferry and a spare was found on the Shetlands where we replaced it (about 4X the UK price) 2 days before we set off he had paid for it to be changed out as it had a bit of play and thought it a good idea. I know it wouldn't have happened if it had been fit correctly. I also have the bits to change my Ibex too but havn't got round to it yet. Gaza

Can I do that from the pinion side or do I need to take the diff out?, so how difficult is it? I am not a mechanic but I get by. Diff out on a sal needs a spreader doesn't it? Gaza

Thanks for the replies, Mike I am in Ingleby Barwick. The play is up & down or side to side. AFAIK the breather is OK and I havn't changed the oil for ages so not over full as its only recently started to leak, the oil is dirty oil colour so no water. I don't think its urgent yet but its on my to do list. Gaza

Hi, yes I'm sure they were fitted to the stage 1's , The 1310, 1350 and 1410 I am referring to is the corresponding UJ size for the flange. Gaza

Does anyone know what the tcase prop flange size is for the Double cardon prop (not D2) I think the standard one is a 1310, its a lot bigger so is it a 1350 or even a 1410? Also while I'm asking questions is the prop flange on a sal axle 10 spline or multi spline like on the tcase? TIA Gaza

My Salisbury axle has a little play at the pinion when I apply a little pressure on the prop its also leaking some oil, does it need a new bearing or does it just need a new seal and retorque with a new crush spacer? Gaza

£10 not even 2 gal, I would have filled up with diesel and thought no more of it. Sorry I'm not being helpful Gaza

I am sure it can be done by drilling and tapping holes to add spark plugs amongst many other things and it is very expensive but i'm sure engines with spark plugs that run on gas already exist As has been said you can add propane to the intake of a diesel engine to add power and aid economy but be careful a little is good too much is very bad as it in effect increases timing which will blow Hgs at best and big ends at worse. Gaza

Mine kept jumping out of high but was OK in low, turned out that the lever had been put on a few splines out. Been OK ever since. Gaza

Dont know the P/N but they are fitted to some wolfs so a main dealer will probably be able to look it up for you. Just noticed you are from Stockton, I have seen several wolfs at your main dealers so they must service them. here is a post about this from 2 years ago http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...art=#entry39785 Only the wolf alt fits apparantly so you might be better off making your own. Gaza

If more than one battery is to be wired as one then this is how I do it on my camper. Wire them + to + and - to - but then use the pos of battery one and the neg of battery two as the main engine battery leads this then stops one being a master and the other a slave. All cabling to be done with thick welding cable, I went a bit OTT as I was given some 70mm welding cable, now thats thick. BTW I don't think its a good idea to wire dirrerent batteris up like this or even ones of not a similar age. Gaza

I have always liked these http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/product...pletetcase.html bolts straight onto a 4X4 GM NV4500 Gaza

Cummins B series are most economical in the 1600-1800rpm range so overall gearing depends on tyre size and Tcase used, ideally you want your cruising speed to be around 1700rpm for best economy. Use a www gearing calculator to work that out. I cannot give any advice on the TKO gearbox. Gaza

The problem with a marine engine is there will be alot of parts needed to convert to automotive use. Some P7100 I/P 4bta's are rated at 250BHP & 500ft/lb. There are 3 different I/P's on these engines, rotary type similar to a 300tdi, inline A pump and the one everybody wants is the P pump. There might be another one for gen sets but you don't want that one. This is a US site but have a look http://www.roverhybrids.com/VA_4BT_D90.html That is a P pump 4BT. gaza

The Yanks love em. Gaza

Not too sure how a TD5 lift pump works but on some engines a faulty lift pump if it it mechanical and attached to the block can fill the sump with diesel. Gaza

Different strokes for different folks. I personally think the B series Cummins engines are the best engines ever made. I can get spares for my 6BT & 4BT at many places worldwide Cummins dealers Daf dealers Case dealers or marine repair places. Virtually everything is interchangeable between the 2, Blocks cranks & heads excepted. So my 6bt & 4bt share oil filters fuel filters and many other parts, there are no belts or chains to snap or stretch. I find it easier to get cummins spares/consumables than 300tdi stuff even though I have a LR main dealer 3 miles from where I live as he always has to order stuff in. Landrover gearboxs appear to be made out of cheese even behind a Rover engine. Apart from the NV4500 for which I can get spares if I ever need them shipped in a couple of days the other gearboxes mentioned are all used in UK vehicles of one sort or another and can be rebuilt by any decent gearbox rebuilder. My 300tdi isn't exactly quiet either, the 4bt might need a little more soundproofing which is a small price to pay in my opinion. A 6BT/4BT will take 40-45psi boost as standard and much more when prepped correctly. The 6BT stock bottom end is good for 1300bhp at which the standard rods can sometimes fail. The beauty of them is that they are so common in the commercial world spares are easy to obtain and interchangeable. Gaza

Astro Al, have you used your NV4500 yet? would you not be better off with a light weight gearbox? Surely a lightweight TKO would suit your purpose better? I could be persuaded to take that HEAVY Nv4500 off your hands for a small fee I promise to put it to good use before the cast iron case returns back to dust. You could even through in that funny oil to sweeten the deal Smokeyone, 4bts were used in Case equipment, diggers, back hoes etc. Go to a commercial breakers and have a look at what trannys came on 6BTs and the SAE adapters that connect engine to tranny will also fit the 4BT, the world is your oyster . 6bts are used in lots & lots of stuff, mine came from a Daf 55 210Ti and had a ZF6 attached to it using an SAE2 adapter (too big) SAE 3 is more like it. Optare buses use an Allison AT545 auto that will bolt straight on ( remote tcase required ) I also have a 5 speed spicer 3053 (3053A is OD 5th) low 1st 5th is 1:1 sae3 1.5" I/P shaft but unsure about Clutch & flywheel (I have posted a pic of it on this forum, just search for spicer). If I can help further just ask. Gaza

Technically the gearboxs don't bolt to the engine they bolt to an adapter. I used a dodge adapter for my NV4500 but there is also ford /chevy and SAE commercial ones. The website you need is www4btswaps.com Do you have a 4bt ? Gaza

Where are you located? There are many gearbox options, a 4BT and a 6BT share the same block bolt pattern so quite a few different adapters are available. I used a NV4500 on my 6BT it has a 5.6:1 1st gear. You can you a ZF5 from a ford or a allison or a TH400 or a 4L80E or a ZF6 from a daf but some options require a remote tcase. Gaza

The B series cummins have an internal oil cooler which dumps heat into the engine cooling water. The 10l sump is from a dodge. I was just after the pros & cons really of the larger sump which is off a commercial 6BT (DAF 55 210Ti) So in general is a bigger sump better.

My 6BT cummins has a 15l sump but I also have a 10l sump that will fit. What are the advantages of each?. 15l is alot of oil but can I go 50% longer between changes? or should I stay at 15l and change at 5K? Gaza

Mine sounds exactly like this http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=SLEN2QdO4aM Gaza