need4speed

2 VERY different things.....

Your doing well there. A few over on FFRR would love to be getting that.

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In my opinion the petrols are more reliable than the diesels. In general that is. I know there are exceptions. Economy wise i would forget the TDV8. The TDV6 might be worth considering though. Like everything in life, its a compromise. Theres pros and cons to each of them. It really depends on what the vehicle is used for and how it tends to be driven.. Edit: the performance of modern diesels is great, but it comes at a cost - they just dont give the real world fuel consumption figures you expect from a diesel. They are also pretty complex.

To get a genuine 400hp out an RV8 you would have to spend the asking price of the whole vehicle and contact wildcat engineering lol.

Absolutely no chance of that power...

Tick tick tick BOOOOM...

My old employer kitted all the vans with Facom gear. Absolutely first class.To your op i reckon the ratcheting spanners would be handy. Even if a different tool is needed to initially crack offending nut etc. if the bolt is long, or the nut on a long thread, they could be useful.

Agreed. I think pound for pound simons pedal lock is the best out there.

Probably. But for how long...... And even if it is, its still a diseasal

Ok. So removed wiper motor from vehicle. With one hand i can push/pull cable through wheelboxes smoothly with no tight spots. After stripping the motor for an inspection to see if id assembled something incorrectly i did notice something. There seems to be a bit of play between the gearwheel (which is new) and the brass bush it locates into. In fact i could almost replicate the noise it makes once every revolution by grabbing the gearwheel and moving it within the bush. Everything else seems fine. Im beginning to think replacement motor is needed as the bush isnt a part you can buy separately.

Hard to tell as i dont have the wipers on yet. Mainly to try and save unnecessary load on the battery as im not at engine running stage, therefore battery not getting charged. Could be a little bind from wheelboxes as they dont feel that free. I have noticed the motor getting a little slower as if the battery is taking heavy load. Ok its not getting charged but its a brand new odessey pc1500.. I wouldnt have expected it to be struggling yet as ive only tested the motor half a dozen times or so?

Disconnected the cable from the motor. Push/pulled cable to see how much resistance was in it. Im not sure how "freely" the cable should be through the wheelboxes. I was able to push/pull with hands but not as free as id expected tbh. The wheelboxes are new (though not sure if genuine or not) so no play. Just not as free as id expect... With regards the motor itself i was unable to turn the gearwheel by hand. Is this normal?

Nope. Disco v8 manifolds with matching non-cat downpipes that go into 1. Standard TD5 from there back. A little trimming of TD5 system at front. Only utilising 1 silencer box so expecting it to be very fruity sounding. Edit: Nige and Fridge tell me that these manifolds actually flow very well for standard cast manifolds. The only other thing to remember is that you must use the tubular type v8 gearbox crossmember. If you use the TD5 type the downpipes will foul. You may be able to butcher the TD5 crossmember for clearance but i just picked up a tubular crossmember from ebay for about a tenner.

I was considering these. However they are a 4-1 design rather than a 4-2-1 design, meaning they lose a fair bit of torque and move the power higher up the rev range. On the advice of Nige i went with a pair of twin-port disco v8 manifolds mated to a td5 system. Im informed that this will perform pretty well. Hopefully by the time these rot away i will be able to afford some stainless 4-2-1 manifolds..

After tightening the adjuster screw all it did was slow the motor down a bit. The "kick" was still there, once every sweep.

The clunk is coming from the motor as you can see it kicking. BUT what if the wheelboxes were making the spiral drive tight. Ie adding a bit of load to the motor?

As mentioned in post above, the gearwheel is brand new. In all honesty im a little perplexed as the things i thought would have worn ive renewed. Unless ive put it together incorrectly somehow though i dont think so as i rebuilt it exactly the same as it came apart. As also mentioned above i will tighten adjustment screw a little and see if that helps. One thing i did notice was that there is what appears to be a brass bush in the body of the motor. Has this been known to wear and make a noise?

Im not sure how much slack is in gearwheel/wormgear interface. Would i be right in assuming i would need to disconnect the spiral drive from the crank in order to check? The parts i replaced when rebuilding motor was gearwheel/crank, parking switch and brushes if memory serves. Though whether or not they were genuine parts i cannot remember... I may try tightening the screw a little to see if it makes any difference. I will update tomorrow. Cheers

During testing of the motor i discovered a kind of clunking sound coming from the motor once every sweep. At the same time this occurs you can also notice the motor give a little kick. While the unit itself is of old 200tdi vintage, a few of the innards are new in order for me to run the old style motor in conjunction with td5 style wiper wheelboxes. Any ideas what might be causing this? While the sweep/operation seems to be good, i couldnt put up with that noise knowing something isnt right... Edit: i noticed there is a adjuster rod with a slotted end with a locknut on the motor. Whats this for?

Hi stuck. Long time no speak btw! You didnt say what was wrong with injectors, or if you just didnt have any, but just be aware that a good ultrasonic clean will normally sort rv8 injectors out. Id be inclined to buy a cheap 2nd hand set and have them cleaned. They arent like these modern day self-metering jobs...

Hahaha!But yes. I think you have probably found the problem.

Definately clutch release if the sound disappears when clutch is pressed.

Why would this kind of wear be more likely on a v8? The rv8 is known for being very smooth, and with that being the case offers less shock through the transmission. Im not saying the output shaft/input gear ISNT worn, just that i dont see it being more likely if its a v8 unless its a hugely powerful one.. Id still be checking prop uj's first.

Thanks Ralph. Wires are totally different colour on mine. Guess that doesnt matter as long as the pins are the same.