Snagger

I did get about 5psi more at low and high rpm warm by removing the big washer from the oilstat. I does mean the oil gets slightly warmer, but it stay within the normal range on the gauge.

I think he's proposing making an over-run brake system similar to the Sankey's, but using SIII parts. Sounds viable to me.

Fit a SIII sender.

According to the manuals, 25psi at idle and 55psi at high revs, but mine has always given similar readings to yours, and that was following a full rebuild. Everyone else I got readings from also matched these, so yours are pretty normal.

You could do it the lazy, if less profitable, way of advertising it on US forums for them to arrange all the shipping and import, or ask on those forums if anyone has done it and get anyone who has to run through it for you.

All correct - the shims set the preload - too many shims and the bearings will be loose, too few and the bearings will be tight and will wear faster and and also generate more ehat, scorching the oil (which gets pretty damned hot, even hotter than the main box because the main box spends most of its time in 4th and the gears are just idling, while the transfer box always ahs all torque running through gear wheels and shafts). They normally have four shims, though I had to reduce mine to three on rebuild. The preload is set by wrapping string arouns the output shaft and then pulling on the free end with a sping balance, much in the same way as setting swivel pin preloads. The speedo drive is clamped between the drive flange and inner bearing race, as you said, so a loose nut on the back end will let the gear spin on the shaft, resulting in undereading and erratic indications and eventually no indication at all. Unfortunately, you can rarely set the exact torque specified on this nut because you need to align the slots with the shaft hoiles for the split pin.

That's what I used to do for bleeding air out (regular fluid replacement was done without this). It's a faff, because it means removing the hub and stub axle retaining bolts, but it gets good results. The PDWA valve is also a source of air pockets, and that can be cured by bleeding upwards through the slaves to the reservoir with an Ezibleed disconnected from the supplied reservoir caps and fitted to a bleed nipple. Just be careful to start with a near empty reservoir and keep an eye on its levels to avoid over flow and paint damage.

Beat me to it. A very common failure on Tdis - the fork is astonishingly badly made, a perfect example of cost-engineering: have a look at a SIII fork in comparison!

So my boss thinks, but every time Ryanair is in the news, do you think "I must book with them", or "what a bunch of rogues; they're not getting my trade"?

I don't think so - the door is supplied as a direct replacement, so should perform identically to the LR genuine part.

You should have demanded a replacement under the "Sales of goods act". The door was clearly unfit for purpose if it was unable to take the weight of a standard wheel, and they would have a legal obligation to replace it or give a full refund.

It's a pretty amusingly inept campaign. It could have been interpreted as insulting, their believing us to be so stupid as to fall for it, but it is so weak that I can't help smile at their own foolishness. It has probably cost them the trade of most of us on this forum.

You definitely need a longer panhard rod, and fitting an adjustable one would be the easiest way to make sure the length is just right, with the axle centred under the chassis when parked on level ground. You're still going to get bump steer with such a lift, though, because of the inclination of the panhard rod and drag link. You would get less lateral movement of the axle on articulation if you could use an extended rod mounting on the chassis and bracket on the axle, ideal 1.5" in each case, to get the rod closer to horizontal, but that could increase bump steer as the drag link moves out of parallel to the rod - they need t be parallel, and should be as close to horizontal as practicable.

I tried that before the doubled o-rings. It didn't help much.

I'd agree - not RR, though I think they'd fit a P38.

Don't be disappointed if the selectors still weep - I tried all sorts to fix them, with seals from various sources, substitution with suitable diameter rubber hose and now a set of o-rings double up (two per rod), which works far better but still isn't a cure. It's a bad bit of design having the rods exposed, rather than inside a section of casing which drains back into the box.

Remember to cut a hole in the top of the tunnel to get at the filler. It should be the same size as the hole on the side (which you can use to get to the dip stick) and uses the same type rubber grommet.

Yes, I'm sure - the breather you're working on, which sits atop the square "tower", is for the transfer box: a slot runs up the gasket face of the back of the gear box from the output shaft hole, forward of the oil slinger on the main shaft, into an empty chamber under the square plate you have in the photo. That slot is aft of the gear box's rear oil seal, so gear box pressure can't vent through that slot. The only way the box can vent through the breather on that tower is via the selector rod drillings in the casing, but the selector rods would seal fairly well with the oil, so I doubt it'd breathe well that way. The steel disc in the gear box top cover should have be double lined and have another plastic breather in it just like the tower's breather. Fitting an MoD spec top-fill cap is a good mod, especially when used in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain dipstick for the transfer box - if you bend the stick and tube a little, you can fit it to the the gear box without any other alterations, making level checking and refilling a really quick and easy job. I did it a while back - just remember to get the thick o-ring for the cap and the retaining spring/detent spring retainer (its a brass plug that replaces the existing plain brass plug the retains the 1st/2nd detent spring, but has a swing-away leaf spring that holds the filler cap down).

Good advice Gaz, though there is an old saying that "there are no dumb questions, only dumb answers". That is one weakness of the internet - some of the advice given is utter carp and is sometimes dangerous or reckless. Always canvass for opinions when using the net, unless you have identified a few reliable individuals.

The breather should be mostly internal, so only the top cap sits above the steel plate. A grommet will not allow venting or breathing, so would cause leaks in the transfer box. (this plate vents the transfer box, not the gear box, whose vent is in the circular plate over the selector shafts). In practice, though, the o-ring sealing the plunger operated by the yellow knob seals poorly and will allow breathing through that point.

Look for signs of leaks by looking for discoloured or stripped paint - brake fluid is almost as strong as Nitromors, and any leak will have blistered and peeled the surrounding paint. Look at the top of the foot well where the pedal box is secured, and the pedal box itself. If you have a vacuum servo (big black drum that the master is bolter to on later models and some which were retrofitted with SIII brakes), then look at that too. I think you need to find someone local to help you, though - there is a lot to go wrong with these systems and symptoms are very specific for different failures.

I had a problem with my RRC, which had similar sensors. It was the volumetric sensor, inside the wedge shaped plastic fairing in the head lining. Once I replaced that, all was fine. The alarm worked with the sensor disconnected until I sourced the replacement - a broken window won't be detected, but any door opening or forced lock will set it off. could be worth a try as it takes moments and costs nothing...

That, or a short on the wire between the gauge and sender.

Hi John, Please take it as a concerned and well intended piece of advice rather than in any negative way when I suggest that if you are unable to identify the master cylinder, then you're not yet up to working on the vehicle's brakes. Fill in your profile, and hopefully one of us will be local enough to help you out, but brakes are the most critical system on the car and should only be tackled by those who know how.

I found on my RRC and the Discovery brakes that are on my 109 that the rear callipers had seized pistons, outboard in all cases. I think they are more prone to rust and seizure than the inboard pistons because they are more exposed to rain and road spray. It doesn't take much to have an effect, and a small amount of increased friction in the piston will have considerable effect in unbalancing piston effort and pad wear. New callipers will be just as bad in three or four years, hence my recommendation of stripping the existing callipers and cleaning them meticulously before fitting new seals and stainless pistons.