Muther Trucker

sorry, thought puting it on twice might boot my postings!!!

... and the engine mountings on your chassis will need cutting off and re-positioning....

payen are good, try AE cookes in Scunny, they should be able to get you either the full head set or just the head gasket... the re-torque procedure is slightly different from the 200tdi... do you have the manual or shall i dig mine out???

sounds like head gasket to me, mine was doing exactly the same thing (F reg 2.5td 110 csw) even after being left over 12hrs the rad cap was still under lots of pressure.... mine was the head gasket...

sorry mate cant help with either of those... i thought it was a "Thomas the Tank Engine" related question.... with 2 and 4yr old boys living in the house i`m an expert!!!!

i got £10.98 each for vogue alloys, (£950 a ton for wheels....) £750 a ton for sheel alloy, and £1800 a ton for brass/copper rads, which paid 12.60 for the fins out of a scrap disco rad!!! i think for steel i can get £120 for mild + £160 for heavy...

you can do it without a press, but it is hard graft, first spend a few days spraying all the nuts and bolts with wd40 + wire brushing them, go for the genuine bushes if you can and buy new nuts + bolts aswell... to get the old ones out you will need a big socket and an even bigger hammer, or a blowtorch + a face mask (and a big socket and big hammer) and a hacksaw... if you burn the rubber take care not to get it on your skin, as it is a carcenogen + can eat away at your skin.... to get the new ones in you`ll need some thick threaded bar (12mm) and some nuts and sockets + you can wind them in.... however, the last lot we did we borrowed the local landy place`s press, took the arms down there, and the whole job was done in about 10 mins... your choice!!!

if you`ve seen "a 4x4 is born" you`ll know the work involved in shortening a rear tub, you could just buy a 90 rear prop, you would need a 90 fuel tank, you`d have to swap the rear axle spring seats and use 90 rear springs, you might have to get a sva or at least take it to a dvla local office cos you`ll need the log book changing, then you`d have to notify the insurance company who wont like it.... i think it would be a lot less hassle (a chassis swap is still a hassle tho... most of those rusty nuts havent been undone since they went on there in the factory...) to get a 110 chassis, or tart up your 110 + sell it for a 90 if thats what you want...

if it makes you feel any better my 1989 2.5td 110 kicks out alternating clouds of black, white and blue smoke on startup, sometimes so bad you cant see behind you... might be summat to do with the veg oil....

well, i fitted them along with a set of new shockers, and the front has gone up by 1.5 inch, making it only 1/2 inch lower than the back, it looks much more "right" now.... B)

i know in an ideal world that would be the thing to do, but the point is i have these springs, they were free, they are new, i would have to buy the others... i know they arent mega expensive, but at the moment spending more money on the landy is out...

hi folks, my 110 csw (F reg 2.5td) currently sits a bit like a drag car - nose down... it seems to have had the rear springs changed before i got it (although i`m not sure what part no/code/colour they are) but looking at the state of the front springs they could still be the originals... i want to fit a 2" lift on the car, but the back looks like its fine as it is, so just need 2" of lift on the front... this looks like it would level the car up + give me satisfactory ground clearance... the thing is, i`ve been given a pair of nrc 4304 that had only been fitted for about 2 weeks, these are listed as rrc rears, with a length of 17.71 inch, 170 lb/inch rating and 7 coils and are the red/whites... the codes for my 110 at standard height are nrc 8044 osf (15.13 inch, 155/215^ lb inch, 9 coils, white/white) and nrc 8045 nsf (14.49 inch, 155/215^lb inch, 9 coils, yellow/yellow) my thinking is that fitting the nrc 4304`s to the front of the 110 would give me around the extra 2 inch of lift i`m after... and best of all they were free!!! can anyone with a bit more experience of springs/ratings/lifts etc offer any advice or forsee any problems???

good luck!!!

you wouldnt be able to use the 90 screen bracket/hinges (if they are the same as a series 2a???), and you would have to remove the locating pins off the bulkhead

as above, but its your car, you may do some more damage driving it as is, but if it was me and i didnt have far to go, i`d drive it + fix it in the safety of my own drive...

found one on fleabay earlier from a guy in leeds.... item 380028952869

sorry, i was replying to the previous question.... if it is a shaft, remove the prop, put it in diff lock and drive home...

take a jack, (axle stands ) 14mm spanners, phillips screw driver.... snippers to get the tie-wraps off the gear lever surround... if you have a center seat you can lift the base, remove the screws and lift the alloy panel out, giving you a good view underneath... cubby box might make it more complicated tho... do you have drive in hi + low with diff lock in, and no drive in hi or low with difflock out??? if so, at least it doesnt sound like the gearbox or the transfer box thats gone, and finding out if you have broke a shaft, and removing the appropriate propshaft will at least keep you mobile... has it got steel wheels or alloys on it??? if its steels it is sometimes possible to remove the rear halfshafts to check them without removing the wheels, its messy cos the oil comes out with them, but you just undo 5 bolts + pull them out...

if you had snapped a halfshaft or a prop or a diff, i would have thought you would have had to have had it under more load than just setting off normally, and i would have thought you would have heard it go bang... to find out if you have snapped a halfshaft you need to be able to jack the wheels up.... to remove the propshafts you will need 2 14mm spanners or preferably 7/16ths or whatever the equivelent of 14mm is....

firstly just check the diff lock lever hasnt slipped into neuteral, take it out of diff lock, hold clutch down, put car in first go to set off slowly and pull the diff lock lever into H to see if it clunks, if so it wasnt engaged properly... if that works then your off....

from what we found out about the 19j you dont use the crank at tdc to time it up, that would mean the woodruff key would be pointing to the arrow, but it should be pointing to about 7 o`clock, and you use a indentation in the lower timing pulley to time it up... the cam lined up fine, but my pump was either to far retarded or to far advanced, but the pump was turned as far clockwise (when looking from the front of the car) on the bolt sots as it could be - ie advanced as far as poss without moving the pulley up the belt a tooth... so i`m thinking just try slackening the nuts off and knock the pump back a touch..... after i`ve changed the head gasket that is.... i think it got fried when the pulley moved, cos the expansion tank is still under pressure even if the car has been sat for 12+ hours, its bubbling oil from the front of the head, and i think the lift pump might be knackered cos the oil level keep going up everytime i drive it....

thats what we thought it was... it is slightly advanced, can i retard it by slackening off the 3 retaining bolts and turning the pump??? i hate these blinking engines... cant wait to get a 200tdi in there instead....

no, i`m not sure its a problem with the pump to be honest... what happened was we were driving along when the bolt fell out of the crankshaft pulley... with predictable results (AA man out, 110 on flatbed, 125 mile to home...) we changed the bottom pulley, lower timing gear, woodruff keys and the belt the next day, cos they were all knackered. it was blue smoking a bit before this, now its just black... i did have the air filter out yesterday, and it was a bit oily, so i changed that + wiped the oil out of the housing, but since i first posted this i`ve discovered that the oil level in the engine was upto "DAN" on the dipstick, i`ve drained a load out so its more or less on "N" now, so i`m just going to see if thats helped it... could to much engine oil have made it smoke???

thanks, but i`ve already been through all 9 pages of the tech archive, but can`t find anything specifically about adjusting the 2.5td pump....