Muther Trucker

after fitting a 200tdi in my 110 i`m now wanting to swap my 1:6 transfer box for a 1:4 out of a 90. i`ve read this very helpful thread by Les: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601 about how to remove it, (and also 2 other helpful threads showing how to make it easier using some long bolts to slide the box off over) my question is, in the thread above, it says we have to remove the input gear... i just was wondering if this is completely neccasary cos it doesnt say anything about it in the Haines Book of Lies, and the box i`ve got to go in doesn`t appear to have had it removed?? Thanks in advance

not sure if they could be made to fit, but looking on paddocks website the disco ones are different part numbers to the defender ones, there are 3 for the disco 1 Radiator Assembly - V8 Petrol to LA064754 - DISCOVERY 1 ESR80 £109.75 ex VAT Radiator Assembly - V8 Petrol Auto from LA064755 - DISCOVERY 1 ESR3687 £180.90 ex VAT Radiator Assembly - V8 Petrol Manual from LA064755 - DISCOVERY 1 ESR3688 £174.90 ex VAT and 5 listed for a defender: Radiator - V8 to FA428918 without oil cooler - DEFENDER ESR76 £77.74 ex VAT Radiator - V8 from FA428919 without oil cooler - DEFENDER ESR203 £229.00 ex VAT Radiator - V8 to JA918061 with oil cooler - DEFENDER ESR204 £355.00 ex VAT Radiator - V8 fromTA976036 with twin carb oil cooler - DEFENDER ESR3685 £229.00 ex VAT Radiator - V8 4000cc - DEFENDER ESR3685 £229.00 ex VAT hth

my 90 used to do this occasionally, i found putting it in reverse was enough to make it cut out - the reverse light bulb was enough of a power drain... if you cant get to the bottom of it you could put a switch in the cab that cuts power to the stop solenoid... if you hide it it makes a cheap extra security device too.... did you use a genuine stop solenoid? i used a cheap one in mine first and it didnt have exactly the same length plunger...

the last one i removed i just smashed the plastic bits off with a big hammer then the nut is really easy to get at... i was never intending to re-fit it, and there doesnt seem to be much of a re-sale market for dubious looking rusty old viscous fans, so it saved me having to get a special spanner or mess about for ages....

when you changed the filter + sedimenter what did you find in them? also are you running straight diesel or bio or vegggie etc???

glad ur getting it sorted m8, i had a nightmare with my pump last week... all started from a dodgy stop solenoid, got a copy part one for £13... wouldnt run with it in, bought a bosch one for £10, but to change them i removed the throttle cable bracket, but i removed 1 too many bolts, so when i fired it up to test it i didnt notice the back of the pump had separated about 3mm from the rest of the body... result - snapped shaft in center of pump... got replacement pump from scrappers for £80, got it home + it was full of grit + muddy water + took ages to free off, fitted it + it wouldnt rev up... removed it + took them both to surestart who charged me £60 to put the good shaft in my original pump (the scrappers gave me £30 towards the cost), refitted it, still wont rev up... surestart said i`d plumbed it up wrong or it was drawing air... spent next day mucking about then dragged car upto surestart... they got it running on the adjustment screw on the back, but then it cut out + wouldnt start.... dragged it home, removed pump, took it back to surestart they stripped it again + found they`d put 1 too many springs inside!!! 2 blokes working on 1 pump doesn`t go well, this spring was clanging about in the bottom of the pump stopping it revving up... re-fitted + now goes like a rocket!!! B) B) total cost: £143.... £19 more than i paid for the whole engine in the first place!!

great when can you book me in???

i undid the 13mm lock nut + turned the T 25 torx screw under the prise out cover on top of the pump... my father-in-law turned up the screw on the bulkhead end of the pump near the solenoid, but i dont know how far he turned it... (this was done before i did the torx screw, at the time it made no difference...)

right i`ve tried winding the smoke screw up 3 + 1/4 turns... it goes a lot better, and gives a little puff of smoke on startup, but doesnt smoke at all whilst driving, no matter how much load the engine is under... i would have thought that many turns would have made it smoke??? i`m wondering if maybe the timingbelt has slipped back a tooth when the changed it retarding the pump timing, or maybe the aftermarket stop solenoid (that i have had problems with) isnt retracting the centre far enough and is restricting the flow of fuel??? (maybe this would explain why when i bought the car the stop solenoid had no centre in it...) any other ideas anyone???

ring steve parker, he sells a sender that is the correct thread for the disco housing, but is a match for the defender guage... its about £7 + p+p...

hi all, i`ve just fitted a 200tdi from a disco in my 110... it starts fine and ticks over fine, but when you try and drive it theres no power till the turbo kicks in... it does this in all gears at any road speed... setting off from stood it feels like its going to stall, then it picks up slowly, then the turbo kicks in, the revs + speed shoot up, then you change to 2nd the revs drop right off + its flat + struggling... the previous engine was a 2.5td and when i fitted the 200 i`ve retained the td fuel filter + housing + fuel lines... could it possibly be that the lines are a smaller bore so the engine is not getting enough fuel??? i did use veg oil with the previous engine, so there may have been a very small amount left in the tank, but it was nearly empty anyway, i put around 25lts of boidiesel in, them added a tenners worth of regular diesel ontop... it ran fine on that for the rest of the first day back on the road after the conversion (last sunday), but the second day it started playing up, so we tried advancing the pump timing slightly on the 3 bolts and also with the screw on the back, but it made no difference, so i put another £20 of shell diesel in the tank + there was an instant improvement... i`ve changed the fuel filter, which had a lot of black treacle looking stuff in the bottom... but yesterday and today it seems just as bad, and is worse when the engine is cold... when you are up to speed its fine, theres no smoke except a tiny puff on startup, which seems to be a mucky grey colour... the things i can think of are: its had the timing belt done - has it been done properly or has it slipped leaving it slightly retarded?? is it not getting enough fuel?? are the injectors worn?? is it low on compression?? its blowing on the exhaust from the joint at the bottom of the down pipe, but i wouldn`t have thought this would make it run this bad??? if anyone can think of anything else i should check or look at first i`d be greatful... thanks, MT

do you have any pics? do you mean an air filter like the one i`ve fitted? cos i`m wanting to fit a snorkle and go deep sea diving, so i`ll need to fit something like the original in there somewhere...

at the min it is pot luck, i`m working on the theory "near as dammit is close enough" and the fact our other car is out of mot, so i`ve got to use the 110 to get to work this week, and as soon as i get chance i`m looking into modifying the pipework for the actuator so it takes its pressure reading from the inlet manifold instead of the turbo, thus giving a more accurate reading at the valves and removing any pressure loss from expanding hoses etc... does look a bit strange with all the space dont it... at least it makes it easier to get in there for cleaning/maintanance...

finally got the disco 200tdi running in my 1989 110 csw today... i`ve got a few finishing off bits to do, but i thought i`d put some pics up + show you how my father-in-law + i solved the intercooler to turbo pipework job... heres it done: (the max power air filter is only a temp thing till i get chance to fit a proper air filter + snorkle) this shows the intercooler end: and the turbo: normally when you fit a disco 200tdi into a defender you have trouble getting the pipework round from the outlet on the turbo to the intercooler because there isnt much room on the inner wing... when i did my 90 i ended up cutting some inner wing out to make space, but having a look at the turbo, we noticed the alloy housing with the inlet + outlets is not bolted in place, but held on from the turbo end with a big circlip, so it is possible to rotate the housing and make the outlet point futher downwards, (using a piece of timber + a hammer) then use 2 90 degree hose bends to send you in the right direction, a piece of straight pipe and another 90 degree bend to go onto the intercooler bottom pipe... the wastgate actuator stays in the same place, but we flattened the bracket out to give a better angle + lengthened the actuator arm to fit the gap... looks quite neat + keeps the pipework out of the way, + beats spending £100 + for a set of pipes off ebay...

i dont think so, there appears to be some differences cos paddocks lists them as 2 different parts with 2 very different prices.... Radiator - 200TDI to JA918061 - DEFENDER NTC4893 £263.83 ex VAT Radiator - 200TDI from JA918062 - DEFENDER ESR1676 £263.83 ex VAT or: Radiator - 200TDI - DISCOVERY 1 BTP1823S £92.94 ex VAT i inquired about a re-core for my disco rad when i put the 200tdi int my 90 + it was £125.... so maybe better to get a disco one from paddocks...

ive got some out of a pug in my series and the passenger seat lifts and flips forward so you can still get to the battery box.... comfy + only needed a few extra holes drilling, maybe not so great if your over 6ft tho...

i`m in the middle of doing this to my 110 and making yet another "how to" write up... look for an exhaust on ebay, theres a bloke on there making downpipes for £80 or with intercooler pipes for £170 the oil cooler pipes off a td might be long enough, or you can get 2 sets of disco pipes and cut the metal bits and weld them together to make a longer set if your good with the welder (pirtek wanted £40 when i was converting my 90...) even if you used the disco box so the downpipe cleared you would have to move the engine mounting brackets on the chassis... apparently ashcrofts do a conversion kit for using the disco box in a defender... use the engine mounts off the block of the old diesel you should be able to keep the disco flywheel housing, but will need to drill + tap 4 or 5 holes out... move the clutch pipe round the corner before you fit the engine - its much easier...

someone here: http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...&highlight= asked a similar question... my 90 went from 2.5 petrol to 2.5td to 200tdi....

you really want it sticking out a bit past the bodywork though, otherwise you`ll just fill the boot of the car with fumes...

you might be better off removing the rear box + leaving the mid box if you want to leave either in... my bro in law ripped his back box off at a pay and play site, so hes got a 90 degree bend + a stainless rolled lip and routed it through the rear panel so it higher up... the back box seems vulnerable where it is...

have a look on: http://www.d-90.com/ go to "custom mods" at the top of the page, then on the menu at the left have a look at "sleep + store" + "sleep + store 2"...

i thought they looked like mine, but they`re slightly different... you can just about make them out... mine are tubeless btw... sorry i was no help....

have you heard of design-a-chassis??? i have no personal experience of them (and i did hear they were shut not long back due to a fire at their workshop...) but they do cage mounts etc as optional extras.... maybe worth considering.... http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/chassis.asp

thanks for those pics, big help!!! B)

did this at kirton trying to get up a wet muddy hill when the anacondas dug their way down to some grip.....