lansalot

A guy I know in Kinloss did this with a few friends, they stuck the tank in his garden and the tank itself has a digital readout, just like a petrol pump. They all take a note of what they take out of it, as they're friends I'd expect the honour system is coming into it a fair bit of course 100k miles isn't that much if you lump in with a few chums... Especially if there's a Range Rover or two on the loose

Passenger swore the wheel was going to come off - and yet of course when we got out and rocked it, it was on as solid as it should be. You'd have thought there was only 1 wheel nut on or something. At higher speed, I don't doubt I'd have had a real fight on my hands ! New bushes (Devlon?) being fitted today, and custom made on top of that - so it fits the chassis-bracket properly. A

Yeah, a brown sludge so perhaps not actual mud after all. Wish I'd take a photo now (embarassment prevented more than anything). It was pretty awful in there ! On the sealing matter, this side that I know I definitely fitted it the wrong way round wasn't leaking before I replaced the swivel seal. And now it is. That's only been on a small trip round the block. It's not major, but I'll keep an eye on it. If I have to take it off because of the brake disc anyway, I'll replace it again-again. Thanks markyboy - and anyone else got any views on the seal matter ? Cheers A

Oh carp. I was just looking at some photos I took before doing this work, and I think I screwed up with this seal. I fitted the new ones so the spring (or "open face" of the seal) is to the inside of the swivel, instead of the outside (along the halfshaft) as shown in the pic above. Have I screwed up big time here ? I'd hope it doesn't make much of a difference ?

Measure and join one up yourself ? http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/jetexcustomexhaustparts.php

Not quite how the detroit works - the locker is always engaged, but whenever a wheel starts turning faster (so, the outside one when you're on a roundabout) than the input, then the faster one dis-engages. It doesn't transfer drive to the slowest - it disengages drive from the fastest (as is my understanding ). Unless the roundabout is covered in snow or ice and there isn't enough torque fed back from the road surface to cause the would-be-faster wheel to disengage. In which case all hell (and your rear end) may break loose

Will be in most of the night, thumping mine with a large hammer. If you want to come round, feel free for a second opinion

I also suspect dodgy welding on exhaust bracket...

There *may* have been a little brutality pushing one of the pistons back into the caliper. May...... Might just go for some new ones, will take the wheel off tonight and check the runout. Cheers (also, all bearings and seals were done at the same time. Both sides. Unjustifiably proud of myself too!)

Stick the passengers head out the window (on a private road!) and have a listen. Does it happen when stationery with engine off ? Stationery when engine on ? Loose/missing caliper bolt ? Pin missing for brake pads ?

It's a 14mm bolt alright. However, it turns out the axle is pre-86 range rover classic, so I'm guessing a rod from same was used. Hmmm... Superpro offered me a custom bush, so might take them up on that one. Assuming I can get the axle-rod end off, why do they have to put the nut in such a stupid position?? argh !

If you have a detroit locker fitted, it should be obvious. Jack up the rear (both wheels) and turn the prop. If both wheels turn in the same direction, then you have a detroit locker (or similar). If they spin in different directions, then it's a "normal" diff. (Try this with diff oil cold for best results ) Also, with one wheel held steady and the other spun, you should hear the detroit unlock (never tried this, but the locker works by unlocking the wheel that's spinning quicker than the input shaft so it sounds logical). It shouldn't be clicking to unlock by your turning the prop - the unlocking is determined by the wheel speed/input difference and not the prop. For what it's worth, I have a detroit locker and it's rock solid, nowhere near any amount of play like that. What you're hearing there sounds very scary to me (edit: though I just listened again, and it sounds like more like something popping - so maybe it's a locker other than a detroit?) What are the other issues ? What's the take-up like when you let the clutch out, do you always hear the bang then ? (and which end of the prop is the bangs coming from?)

Funnily enough, I'm in the same boat. A shock absorber is just that - to absorb the shock. Not to prevent it. Almost undoubtedly panhard rod bush I'd say. I had a hell of a fight on my hands staying on the road at 30mph ! Check my woe out here, with a video of busted bush causing the trouble

Thanks guys, I'd kind of expected as much, but didn't fancy taking it all apart again. Ah well, back to the drawing board Cheers A

Since rebuilding all the hub seals/bearings (satisfying job, if I say so myself) and replacing the brake pads, I'm now getting a pulsing through the brake pedal when applying the anchors. I'm happy that everything is back in place as it should be. This only happened when I did the second side. Discs were skimmed a minimal amount as they weren't healthy with the carp that had got into the brake pads and worn them really badly. That's my fault, one to bear in mind - need to check them more often. I don't think the discs are warped, would anyone have any ideas why the system pulses back up through the pedal ? (No ABS, naturally) I do have a thread here about a bad wobble, but don't think that's causing the brake issue. Thanks A

Got a major case of the death wobble on the Defender 90. Though I think the term "death wobble" really understates the problem. When I say bad wobble, I mean - "get to about 30mph, and then fight steering for your life while wheel is almost wrenched out of your hands, and passenger whose head is sticking out the window says the tyre keeps coming out from under the bodywork." A vibration of an unbalanced tyre or a shot prop, this certainly wasn't !! Anyways, back home safely and with passenger wobbling the wheel, I took a few shots of the offending item. See for yourself just how bad the bushes were. OK, clearly I need a new bush, that's a given. Will take the bar off tomorrow night and go from there. And now on to the question: The panhard rod end is about 34mm wide, yet the mount space on the vehicle is 43mm. Given that this thing is a bit of a hybrid, and given that sitting next to it is a range rover whose rod takes the almost-full space up, I'm wondering if this is the right rod ? Any ideas ? If it helps, it would appear the inside diameter of the rod end is around 27mm Thanks Video of tragic bush here, for your edutainment: (Thanks to all the forum-folks in the archives for pointing me in this direction, it's almost certainly something I wouldn't have considered.)

Straightened two sets of Sumo bars for me, he's a really helpful guy. Was even friendly when I banged on his door around 8pm one hot Saturday evening in a hurry for a track rod end....

Here's his number, in case you missed it Feel free to pull him up about his parking. (As an aside, trophy won for "best car club" at Tain Classic Car Rally - should have also one a trophy for "never polished" as well I think!)

Sure Steven, I have a good friend who could maybe help out as well. Many eyes etc. Send me te details if you'd rather not post the info

I can give it a go for you. In the Crown area. Gimme a ping back if that's ok

Not a wheel balance problem, that's for sure. We're talking steering-wheel-out-of-the-hands here, it's extremely violent when braking or slowing down and as you brake from 30, it violently judders pretty much to the standstill. Going to check panhard rod bushes and steering drop arm tomorrow. Also check steering damper is as tight as it should be. Didn't drive it today as a result (well, that and a hangover), but am off all week so hope to get it cracked soon. Cheers A

Defender 90, V8. Tyres as above (grizzly claw, 235/85/16), good nick. Getting the death wobble as in here, but want to make sure tyre pressures are OK. I've no idea what they should be, so have been running them at 30. All was well until I mashed my steering damper, and ran it without for a couple months. That brought the wobble on, as expected, so I finally replaced the damper today. Wobble still there. I can see the panhard rod bushes are shot, so will replace them ASAP. Wheel almost ripped out of my hands decelerating at around 30mph so ain't going anywhere !!! In the meantime (and as the shops are shut and the trial is tomorrow), can anyone advise what PSI the tyres should be at ? Cheers A

A very public "thanks all" for the info and the excellent tech archives.... Now... (next thread)

Thanks Bish - question, how often to people check/re-grease their wheel bearings ? And, any particular type of grease I should use for this ? Thanks

OK, had no luck trying to do the quick-trick to fit the swivel seal (as in this thread) so being clever, I thought I'd whip the lot off and do it properly. Just as well I did. As soon as the drive flange came off, I found the bearing was so caked in mud and carp that I couldn't even see where to stick the hub spanner. OK, so in other words, just as well I took it off (and the other side will be coming off very soon to be checked). Question is, was it so caked in carp because of my failed seal on the other side ? The inside of the actual main axle was fine so the carp doesn't appear to have migrated that way. The swivel housing seemed OK, not full of pish. Where could it have got into the main wheel bearings ? I basically have to replace every seal and bearing in the hub now (not too big a problem I hope), but a couple questions if I may. Firstly, do any of them require some mega-ton press to fit ? And also, this seal has me worried (the picture isn't too clear, it's the one that seals the halfshaft/axle and the swivel). As above, there didn't appear to be any contamination in the axle, but as I move the axle in the seal (which wouldn't happen when fitted I hope), it flexes about and I'd think it could let carp through ? Or is it just that I have it out and am moving it about ? Pics here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/DkY...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/1EK...feat=directlink So, why caked in carp, press needed, and seal condition ? (and a daft question - wheel bearings, are they lubricated by the one-shot grease that goes in the swivel housing as well?) Thanks for any advice, as always. (As always, Haynes fails a fair bit in this case) Oh, and the brake pistons are very pitted and look awful. Easy to replace ? I see thisthread, and it looks pretty easy. Just concerned about the warnings at the top.. A (some great threads already in the tech archive, above are more a "how the hell did this happen?!" ) Great help here