lansalot

I find a smokey V8 is usually the result of peer pressure - too much hanging around with smokey diesels. Get him into a better crowd !!!

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/kWZOWop3pLyJsWpeY9-0_g?feat=directlink Linkage slide like the above, the spring-loaded collar slides the cogs together. The light is engaged with a pin that rides up over that linkage. Maybe it's screwed out too far. Check it's actually engaging at all first before worrying about the light.

If the solenoid is wired incorrectly to the winch, this can also happen. I did it when I "carefully labelled" the wires when swapping the winch, put the new one back in and all together - and found it ran one way, but only clicked the other. Turned out my labelling hadn't been quite so careful after all... Better diagram here (DC88 Contactor Wiring) http://www.devon4x4.com/wiring-diagrams/view-category.html

I've two pretty-standard (and well-used) batteries running in parallel. The other week, I winched myself out of trouble with the engine off - a good couple minutes worth of heavy pulling. Started straight up (3.5 v8) afterwards. Unless you're going mad, I'd stick with the "keep it simple" and just wire them up in parallel. If you find things don't cope the way you'd hope in the future, you can amend then. Why over-engineer/cost if you don't have to ?

£49 on his website, £28 on his ebay site... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12-volt-Wireless-Winch-Remote-Control-4x4-Recovery_W0QQitemZ150385494211QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Recovery_Tools?hash=item2303ac88c3#ht_762wt_927 I bought the exact same model unbranded off of ebay from http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WIRELESS-WINCH-REMOTE-CONTROL-12V-12-VOLT-RECOVERY-4X4_W0QQitemZ140356374388QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Recovery_Tools?hash=item20ade44f74 It's OK, but the range isn't great. Not overly impressed. Am gonna wire in a proper in-cab system instead.

Roll-up foam camp-bed x 1 from Tesco (£6.99 I think). Fitted in the 90 truck-cab. Cheap and cheerful, but looks carp. Job done

Transfer Box/engine mounts all OK ? Clutch fluid reservoir at appropriate level ?

Out of interest, if you're going to be off-roading ( and if not, why not ), then the inevitable scrapes will eventually scratch the galv off. The more layers on top, the better ?

Just sent a PM - and then realised you were also in Inverness. Welcome to check out mine, but your best bet is to weld a plate and then bolt through that. However, if you're welding anyway, why not just go direct to the chassis ? One of the guys in the Highland 4 Wheel Drive Club recently made his own cage, and it looks well smart. Bought the steel locally (someone down the Carse, can't remember who) and grabbed a pipe bender. Looks like a professional job. As you're a welder to trade, perhaps bending your own up might not be so much trouble ? Would save on the extortionate postage they get us for up here.. Keep this number if you ever need something moved/picked-up cheap - SW Couriers, 01282 841505/07821 115595. Am not affiliated, but 6cyltdi gave me their number. Got my winch from Devon to Inverness for £30 (DBORC wanted £115)

Doh! Stoopid laptop/laptop-user

The guy that's building mine (www.bhengineering.co.uk) says the stock crank is good for around 5200rpm, and it would be the first thing to go...

Just found what looks like an official LR V8 overhaul manual. Here: https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B1GGcO7cZjYCYTg3YmMzNjYtYzE2Mi00Y2JlLTlmOGMtZjdkZWRiNTY2OTRk&hl=en

I've no idea if a 3.9 will fit (an adult will be along to answer shortly). These are the parts I had to buy to do the 3.9, all in it was about £200 (which is what I paid for the range rover, incidentally ) If you order all the parts from Real Steel where possible, 01895 440505. Timing chain set, AZ770, qty 1. Hydraulic lifter set, AZ794-16, qty 1 set of 16. Inlet manifold gasket, CX7590, qty 1. Valley end seals, CX2684, qty 2. Timing cover gasket, CX2144, qty 1. Rocker cover gaskets, CX2454, qty 2. Front crank oil seal, CX2184, qty 1. Camlube additive, BY159, qty 1. Real steel don't list a std 3.9 cam, you'll have to source that from elsewhere, try Rimmer Brothers - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ERR5924P order online. In terms of what you need to do, I think it's along the lines of radiator out, water drained etc manifold off TDC ! front timing cover etc, water pump, PS pump etc all off rocker covers off rockers off (or at least slackened - keep pushrods marked if taking them all the way out) cam out through the front replace in reverse several steps missing, wait for an adult etc etc Worth replacing the timing chain while you have it all out, and the camlube is an essential apparently. A

For what it's worth, couple of the end-lobes on mine looked like they had practically zero lift - the cam profile was more "round" than anything else...... it was near impossible to see where the actual lobe began and ended on the worse ones. Might be surprising just how bad it is. Also, my (current) 3.5 with twin SUs sounds like it's in roughly the same boat. Zero power on-road, pulls from nothing off-road though (low TB masks the deficit). Get it on-road, up to 3rd and it starts going backward. Fifth is a waste of time unless downhill. Am hoping for a serious transformation when the 3.9./efi goes in.. 2" lift, and 265/85s if I remember right... LT77/LT230 and I think the TB ratio was a 1.4... Also, my engine was (by design) a low compression model, 8.25:1 if I remember. The guy who checked it out told me it was never going to be a screamer, because of that. You'll get the compression ratio from the number stamped on the side.

Correct needles in the carbs ? I'm almost-convinced that my poor performance at high revs is down to a mix of worn cam and wrong needles. But as it'll all be megasquirt and EFI soon, I don't care. The 3.9 I'm putting in had some really worn cam lobes, and I could see it pretty obviously with the manifold off. Worth a look ?

You can get EDIS8s cheap from http://www.trigger-wheels.com/

On the simplistic front, any Mini-DV camera tends to be capturable by Windows Movie Maker (or Premiere, if you're feeling flash). As Fridge says, line up some possible suspects and go from there. I'd also caution away from the static-storage versions, you just know there's all sorts of compression going on in there.. Maybe that's a little unfair, just a view I have. Grab one of the magazines and see which are the best buys. Buying a camera will typically get you some bundled software to get you going. My JVC (5 years old) is still going strong and with Mini-DV it's never given me a moment's trouble. Works with WMM and Premiere, no problem.

First of all - what are you planning on doing ? If you just require to publish content then you might consider using something like a dotnetnuke provider - why learn how to design a website if you can just pour it into a template ? Answer the "what's the plan" first - you might not need to do any designing or coding. All the below are examples, with you not really need to get your hands dirty at all... http://salaro.com/SHOWCASE/2009customskinportfolio/Aprilshowcases/tabid/329/Default.aspx

I saw that vehicle in Inverness a few months back and got a couple of photos of it. Pretty weird bit of kit...

I fit a full heavy-duty cut-off on the passenger footwell side of the battery box. It's a lot of amps to have running around, willy-nilly. Could save a fire, or someone getting caught when a stray remote sets your winch off and running...

Along the chassis, and up into the hole on the rear of the battery box ?

Try Hugh at www.portalrover.co.uk - he has a wicked TD5 that goes like shomething off a shovel with propane and all sorts...

Lambda ? Isn't that the forbidden dance ?

"I havent sucked on mine whilst running" Me neither !

Dunno. It's a little unclear. Any chance of a bigger picture?