lansalot

Thanks. What's the quick word on how to split them apart ? I see what appears to be some recessed screws (though it was getting dark, so not sure) in the outer plate - is it a question of dragging them out and the outer just falls off ?

Sorry to resuscitate such an old thread (but on the plus side, I did use the forum search ), but I ran into some problem trying to fit new studs to the rear n/s at the weekend. They were too long to slide through the hole with the bell in the background. Odd, as when I removed the old ones, they just slid out. Closer inspection revealed that someone had possibly been at them with the grinder/hacksaw, shortening them a little. Although it's a defender 90, it has disc brakes on the rear so is either disco or RR (I believe). Also-odd is that I replaced some on the o/s rear a while back, and they slid right in. Same parts, all out the same packet. So, how much of the hub do I need to remove/split to get these damn things in ?? Or am I one reply away from a head-slapping "doh-type" moment ? Pics http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/X5V...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/eob...feat=directlink Doesn't look like much to go - but it's enough. Considering giving the head of the stud a little strategic flat-grind along the side for clearance...

trailmaster Really nice landy - what bumper is that ? In case I haven't spent enough lately, I've found myself covetting a winch....

Lol. I bought all that suspension stuff as my cones wouldn't fit (story involving comp-safari-style double-shock mounts, and a grinder). Easy to see how things get carried away on the mods - instead of just grinding the metal off, I bought locators and new shocks. And still had to grind the metal off. Ah well, all part of the fun

I just fitted his competition shock mounts, and the terrafirmas at the weekend (dislocation cones are a must, by the way!). Haven't tried it in anger yet thanks to some smacked wheel studs needing replaced, but it certainly looks the biz.... Will need to sort out a mount and check-chain for jacking the wheel up now. Gwyn clarified to me that the +5.5" is for the extra TRAVEL in the shock, and doesn't refer to the height you must or mustn't have above stock springs. That's still not at full stretch. Am wondering if I might need some longer cones - if you are buying, I'd recommend the spring locators Gwyn has, as they catch the last tine on the spring as it drops out, thus preventing the dislocation going too far. I'd also say (if you can afford it), that cranked rear arms are getting towards a must-have with these shocks.. Give him a ring to discuss, really nice guy.

Anyone got a 3/8ths handy ?

Sump Plug Questionnaire ? I think it did quite well at the Oscars last night, got 8 awards apparently...

http://www.technobots.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh0000...052#a4020_2d052 4020-052 http://www.technobots.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh0000...023#a4026_2d023 4026-023 Job done

The boss I have is 6x100 and is 70mm deep. Which I think is a bit too much. A decent welder could easy cut it down and set it tighter though

If you can't get hold of them, I'll try and get out tomorrow with the measuring tape.

No idea mate, but I bought JC516 from Craddocks to go with it if that helps....

36 spline - I got JC519 (£15) from Craddocks which did the trick.

The comments are based on what it was like then. Not what it is like now. That's all I was saying.

Should have been clearer. No rear axle diff lock. So yes, three wheels spinning. Just trying to balance it out a bit, personally I was a bit disappointed in the performance on the day too. Fair point on the "jeep/lucky" comment, that was a bit unkind of me.

In the interest of balance, I did state that the portal had problems with the diff lock (ie, there wasn't one) on that day. It was fixed soon after. Also, that hole was well slippy on that day, worst I've ever seen it. No traction to be had. Pure luck the Jeep made it out. Having seen the portal in action since, I'd say it's a pretty capable machine. Don't judge it on the video alone There's another clip of it here, incidentally: It was the PortalRover landy, used to belong to hbpfly. edit: I'd rather have the 90 out of the two above, it's well nice

Lol. I had to read that comment a couple times before I realised what I'd done 24-spline, 4-pin ! *ahem*

Can't remember where I found this one, it might help:

Make up a template, get the grinder out and have at a spare piece of aluminium ! important: don't overcut the gap for the left-most switch. doh!

http://www.crowndiffs.co.uk/diffs.html#p38a Looks like a 24-pin in the picture...

Odd Here in Inverness, there isn't a drop of snow. And yet I clearly overheard one of the girls in the office - who I know lives locally - whisper to a friend that she had had a good 7 inches last night. Can anyone explain this meterological anomally please ?

Allisport do them, all shapes and sizes apparently. Some here: http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/allisport_...2853487QQsofpZ0 Also http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...amp;tlgrp=MS004 edit: while we're on the subject - why are swirlpots and baffles necessary ? edit: never-mind What is a swirl pot? A device in a fuel tank that prevents bubbles getting into the fuel system allowing a constant fuel delivery. Baffles apparently used to stop "sloshing" inside the tank, causing instability. Sounds like a good idea in a trialler...

The track rod was bad enough to need straightened. Ian Sykes at 4allfours.co.uk very kindly did this for me as I had bought it from him, fitted it Saturday and bent it Sunday. Track rod was bent on a buried tree-stump (the joys of Brahan Estate). The drag link also has a slight kink in it which I thought wouldn't matter much - until went to replace the steering damper that got ripped off in the same incident and found it wouldn't locate properly. Tree stump again. Can recommend http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page29.html for the track rod protection - nothing will touch it now Think I'll go for the tubular guard for drag link protection (thanks Roachy), for reasons as above. Cheers

I have sumo bars - and I've bent both.

Where can I get one of those tubular guards ?

I always wondered how those (empty) tool chests could be so expensive. Snap-on or whatever. I'm still none-the-wiser. Anyone ? What's so great about them that makes them worth so much ?