eddyoz

Would be a good idea to changse the 'p' gasket[part no 11 in the diagram] while you have the pump off!

Seems strange that problem only occured after the new starter motor was fitted.I would make sure all earths are sound or any other poor connections.Similar to this thread in aulro http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/140352-working-through-my-list.html

All is explained in this link from Aulro My link

Even a stick welder will do the job.......just an inch of weld will shrink it enough....easy job!

Is this any good to you My link

The cooling system in my 300TDI discovery seems to develop a vacuum instead of maintaining a completely full level.For instance,in the morning when the system is cold,I can remove the brass plug on the thermostat housing and hear the hiss of air as the vacuum is released.I normally just top it up with about a quarter or half a cup of water at the most.However after a few weeks of doing this,the level in the expansion tank is way overfull.The vehicle is not overheating and no apparent leaks any where.....expansion cap is new....so why does it not maintain its level from the expansion tank?

Try one of these solutions from this Australian site My link

and Les!

No obvious sign of leakage at the time........but next morning a pool of diesel under the filter.When I had the sedimenter bowl off,I removed the nylon bleed screw and carefully replaced it,being aware they are easy to snap off.Apparently not tight enough. Many thanks James.

Treated the Discovery to some new rear shocks.Whilst the wheel was off decided to change the filter which had been fitted to the sedimenter ie longerbolt[3.5x1/4unc]and a Delphi296 filter.Motor started fine then stopped but started again after a bit of winding over.Drove about 5miles down the road and when turning a corner it cut out,gradually picked up again but cut out on the next turn,managed to limp home.I suspect it could be the lift pump failing after its effort bleeding the air out......does this sound feasible?Can I test it without actually driving it so no risk of being stranded down the road?

Belts and pulley grooves all clean,so far running ok on the spare belt.When the air con belt broke it took out the compressor clutch wiring.Have managed to solder them back together,clutch works when connected to 12v,but not from the ac switch on the dash.Replaced a blown 30 amp fuse in the engine fuse box,60 amp ac fuse in the same box checked out as ok.I guess there must be another fuse somewhere.....anyone know?

Purely coincidental,I suppose,just had new tyres and wheel alignment done on 1998 300TDI Disco.Drove 10 miles down the road and both belts shredded to about half their width....which went first,I do not know.Seems to be a fairly common occurrence on the 300TDI supposedly caused by an out of alignment tensioner.I have checked out all the alignments and bearings and all look good...all including belts were replaced about 2 years ago.The only spare belt I had was 7/1605,a bit long,but it runs true with no excess movement of the tensioner.So what is a more accurate method of checking the alignment?Or are there other possible reasons for the belt shredding? Have ordered correct belts and tensioner,but will run as it is for the week awaiting the parts.Hopefully it will hold together,if not,then presumably it is the tensioner.

I have just replaced the lock spring in my Disco1 passenger door lock.Fairly straight forward,just note which connecting rods go where ie lock tab attaches to the outside lever.The mirror does not have to come off,but the wiring plug needs to disconnected and fed down the window frame,it seems to have an outer collar that comes off.When reassembling the frame[mine had a couple of torx 40 screws]leave loose to align it,before tightening.Bought the springs off disco compatible on ebay,they are right and left handed.They look easy enough to make if you can find a similar diameter spring to cut up.You may even find that part MTC9505 from www.lrseries.com will do the job.

If they are anything like the locks on the Disco 1,the servo is adjusted by loosening its mounting bolts and sliding along.If you can hear the servo operating,it may just need adjusting and or the linkage may have dropped off.

I have fitted a TM Watchdog digital alarm to together with an Engine Saver coolant alarm.Both work very well. Check outMy link

Well done,I just went through the same exercise,but used boat hull liner material.The finished job came out fine even though I put the liner on upside down[the nap uppermost]Used a soldering iron to cut out the holes.All very straight forward and cost $80...so well pleased!

Had exactly the same problem you are experiencing.Replaced head with the newer design[could see no advantage because the extra water jacket holes do not have corresponding ones in the block]but used original type gasket from Elring and used new head bolts.Bled the cooling system.After running for a while it started pressuring the coolant tank.Checked levels, all ok,but still pressurising.Replaced thermostat[although old one tested ok]and also the reservoir cap.Topped up the system and took for a run,all ok! You could remove the head and this time use an Elring gasket [Turners use these as they have had problems with the metal gaskets]and new head bolts if the number of times the old ones have been used is unknown,carefully torqued down of course.Maybe give the gasket a light spray of Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket[old Jag XK method of prolonging gasket seal]Check thermostat and coolant reservoir cap and replace if slightest doubt. Good Luck!

Was unable to undo crank nut using the starter motor so made up this tool,rough, but it did the job!You can use drills or bolts of the correct dimensions instead of the timing tools to lock everything to TDC.Check the belt when you take it off,if it has no fraying on the sides,it shows it is running true.If it is frayed,best to use a crank gear that has an integral flange,rather than one that has a washer spot welded to it.Obtain from Bearmach.You will need a 32 mm open ended spanner to undo the viscous fan,left hand thread [common Ford spanner].Check out the article from www.difflock.com

Timing would not have been altered if only changing the head.First up,I would check the tappet clearances.

Thys I have exactly the same problem.Atf and filter were changed last year,all works smoothly but auto dipstick moves out of its tube about 1cm after a short run.I suspected the breather which I think is on the left rear of the box[banjo fitting nylon pipe]The pipe disappeared over the bell housing somewhere too hard to locate,so left it as is!Only other quirk is sometimes the idle surges, probably only +/- 50 rpm.This is on a 300TDI auto,do not know if this related?Pressure etc.

All is explained on this difflock thread.Works well!Float Switch

If you cannot get it fixed maybe try a Toyota one[Denso]Landcruiser and Hilux diesels have the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator. Geoff

Bought mine from [email="http://stores.ebay.com.au/Global-Automotive-Aust"perfect fit at 51mmx2.75 and a 90degree.The black hoses are cheaper but he appears to be out of stock at present. geoff

Simon There is a very good article on changing the 300 TDI cambelt on the www.difflock.com site.I found to actually fit the belt it was easier to line everything up,wedge the belt with a piece of soft wood between the case and camshaft pulley.With the three bolts just loose on the pump pulley, was able to rotate it clockwise to pick up the belt...saves having three hands! Geoff

I would recommend Island4x4 for price and postage.Example 300TDI Wabco vacuum pump 114.98GBP door to door Western Australia 4 days. Geoff