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steve_d

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Everything posted by steve_d

  1. My EPC lists both the ERR1632 & ETC5064 as superseded. ERR6490 is the current one. If this is a double seal then it would be the ideal choice. It seems strange to some that a rubber seal could wear away a crankshaft but it can. If a groove has been worn then a new seal running in that groove will not seal for long. In any situation like this then fit either a double lip seal or a seal with a thinner body which you can install further into the housing which places the lip on a fresh piece of shaft. Steve
  2. You need a take the MAP vacuum direct from the manifold not from the base of one of the carbs. Some ignition systems take the vac for the dizzy from the carb base but the hole is either partially covered by the butterfly at tickover or is even the other side of the butterfly. If there is a takeoff for the brake servo a tee into that would be fine. Steve
  3. There you go. Three different people advising you to use a hammer. It's a Landrover thing. Steve
  4. A Google search found this. http://www.mgsupplies.com/index-1.html Steve
  5. I had that speedo right angle gearbox fail on my RRC. I took it apart and shimmed out the free play and it has been working for years. Steve
  6. Nice job. I have an ali floor going begging if anyone wants it. Steve
  7. Seemingly any vehicle, 'S' reg onwards, has to comply with EC94/20 which for this discussion says 350 - 420mm to top of ball when vehicle is fully laden but without the trailer attached. So your hitch may well be higher than that for most of the time as you will not be fully laden. Steve
  8. My 1987 RRC 3.5 EFI has:- WG for diode pack pin 5 to fuel pump relay. WG for aircon water temp sender to condenser relay. WLG for ign. switched supply for all things front and rear wiper and screen wash related. WLG for aircon Aux. switched supply to fan speed switch. None of this goes anywhere near the dash binnacle. Steve
  9. You seem to have discounted the thick oil/grease and piece of wood without trying it. It really is a quite common and well founded process for this sort of problem. Works really well on spigot bearings in flywheels. Steve
  10. So it could be a resistor pack problem rather than the injector dead. Will have to try swapping leads and see if I can move the fault to No. 1 cylinder as it's No.3 that's playing up and I don't want to take the plenum off unless I have to. If I go to 3.9 injectors do I need a new inlet manifold as well as a new fuel rail? Anyone got a 3.9 injector set and fuel rail for sale? Steve
  11. Hi Started my 3.5 EFI which has been stood for some time and one of the injectors has most likely died. I plan to fit MegaSquirt to it at some time so these two issues prompt some questions I hope someone could answer. 1. Will my existing injector type (believed to be ERC3620) be suitable for use with MS? If they are not suitable then I will not waste money replacing the dead one and go straight over to MS and the required injector type. If they are suitable I will find a replacement (FF lives just down the road from me, nudge, nudge) which will get me on the road until MS is installed then I may justify buying a new set. 2. The current injectors are driven through a resistor pack, will this still be required for MS? 3. The 3.5 engine is not the finest example so may not last long when I start playing with the Dakar so would the existing injectors have any scope for a larger engine if I found a 3.9, 4.0, 4.6? Many thanks in advance Steve RRC 1987 3.5 EFI now becoming a Dakar.
  12. Buy some cheap pliers or find an old pair. Grind a vee in each jaw where the rounded grip part is. Grip the crimp with the pliers then squeeze the whole lot in a vice. You will have to experiment with the size of the vee to gets its size right for the grimp size. Steve
  13. Looking through the parts list RR stub has a cup shape flange on the outer end and spline inboard. Defeneder has spline outer end but appears to be part of the CV joint. Looks to me like you may need to have something machined. Steve
  14. Find a socket smaller than the circlip and use it to drive the cup further into the yoke which will release the load on the clip. Steve
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