steve_d

Failure of the lifter case hardening would get my vote. Steve

I can't add anything to the journey but you are welcome to use my place in Cowplain as a staging post. Steve

Do any of the springs have any coloured stripes on them in amongst the rust? My listing implies petrol would be part 572315 with a blue stripe If it were diesel then it could be blue/green/yellow stripe or just green stripe. Steve

On my 87 you slide the seat back to remove a hex socket, button head, screw in the front of each runner then slide it forward to remove 2 screws from the rear of each runner. The runners are sitting on ali spacers. Steve

What he wants is a device that will monitor the battery while items, like for instance a CB radio, are consuming power then switch them off if the battery gets to a discharged point beyond which it would not be able to start the engine. Steve

This site seems to have devises that do similar things but the descriptions are not very clear to a non electronic person. See what you can make of it. http://www.copelandengineering.com/index.html Steve

Don't know, hadn't thought that bit through. Will have the same issues when I come to put the Dakar on the road. Steve

Will the person you bought it from know what the number is? If they have the V5 for the vehicle it came from. There is a sound reason for it not being there in that the engine has been decked (top face of block machined). Once you know the number you can stamp it on. Steve

If you are already bracing yourself for SVA then your first action would be to visit the local DVLA office and ask to talk with the inspector. If the stumbling block is that the redundant chassis overhang has been pruned you may find the inspector will accept that the official words “Modified chassis” really applied to chassis being cut and shut for shorter wheelbase. If this works then you will need 8 points from your donor bits. You may even retain your reg. or they will allocate an age related new one. If you do go along then you should complete form V627/1 ‘Built Up Vehicle Inspection Report’ and take with you photos of, not only the completed vehicle, but also photos of the build and in particular the chassis chop so you can show how redundant that piece was. Having typed all this with two fingers I now realise it could all be a pile of plop if your mods are way out there. Could have wasted my time. Steve

Before you go condemning the diff you should check the universal joints in both ends of the prop shaft. Easy to do, just slide underneath and grab the shaft. If you can move it up and down or side to side or twist the shaft relative to the diff then your crunch was the UJ breaking up. Not a difficult or expensive job. Steve

Make that 'smoke a bit more' Will probably do it some good. On a par with a good dose of redex. Steve

My parts catalogue gives part NY120041L and describes it as M20 Nyloc. 1987 RRC Steve

The cylinders are numbered as you say with number one right front as you look into the engine bay. odd numbers right even numbers left. The firing order is 18436572 Steve ETA the dizzy turns clockwise.

I would not make the catch plates on the end of the fingers removable. They will be removed and never re-fitted. Steve

You notice Baz does not actually say he has put the dash back in. If he left half out on the last job then I'm betting the other half has joined the pile somewhere. Steve

Yes they look fine in there but I'm using steel wheels so have no nice cast hole to hide them in. Steve

Make sure you really work at cleaning the bores as they will still have honing grit in the surface. Clean with brake cleaner and white paper towel. The towel will come away grey at first. keep cleaning until there is no sign of dirt on the used towel. Steve

Hi all. Just bought my wheels and tyres along with locking wheel nuts. Not at all impressed with the nut design as I could have them off in seconds with a Stilson. Has anyone seen a really good design anywhere? I've had a search which found a couple of threads on the subject but with the general acceptance that nothing worked. It must be possible to design something with a conical head which you can't get a wrench on. I accept that you will not stop someone with a welder. Who was it who wanted to know what they should make in their new engineering business? Steve

Probably just pulled the fuse. Fuse 19. If tracing wires, brown/pink is the supply in with orange and pink wires doing all the connections between the doors. Steve

Nige. Should he be looking for a 9.35 CR to go with the efi or will the 8.13 still work OK? Steve

My vote goes for:- 1. Ignition amp. 2. Water temp sender. 3. ECU mod. My 3.5 has had 4 amps. 2 temp senders and the ECU has been modified by Carelect in Southampton. Now heading towards MegaSquirt. Steve

Rimmer do: A post lower section RA1203/4 A post to bulkhead repair panel RA1205/6 A post to floor corner repair panel RA1207/8 The numbers are RH/LH. Must be others out there. Try a Google with those numbers. Steve

To prove it is the breathers you could put a catch bottle under each of them. Steve

For some reason the loom has coolant level wiring down both sides of the engine bay so that is why two came to the binnacle. Steve

As a lad I worked in a garage where we had an oil burner which I think was called a 'Whistling Jenny' which ran on old engine oil. It ran that hot there were no fumes. I will try and describe it starting from the bottom up. A metal stand to keep the whole affair of the ground. A dish, 3' in diameter and 8" deep with sides at a 45 degree angle. On that another dish the same but upside down. The two are secured to each other with over centre latches. From the centre of the top dish is the chimney shaped like a church organ pipe. About 4” diameter tapering out over 18” to a diameter of 8”. It was about 6’ long. Three stays supported the chimney. The top dish had three air control valves and a trapdoor. You started it by filling the bottom dish to an inch from the top. Wrap a bit of rag round a stick, dip it in the oil then light it. When well lit you posted it through the trapdoor and waited for it all to start warming up. When running you removed the stick and closed the door. You could then control the heat output with the air vents. It is not burning the oil it is burning the fumes given off by the oils as it gets hot. The chimney would be cherry red for at least the first 3 feet. Goes without saying that it gave a fair old whistle/roar when up to speed. This took the chill off a 10 car workshop with the doors open so you may want to scale things down a bit. Brings back memories of warming my arse on a winters Saturday morning. Steve