steve_d

So to take this thread to the next level. Which is the best make/model? Where is the best price to be had? I am looking for a 5 Foot version to use with my Dakar. Steve

Patina From Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia (Edited) Patina is a coating of various chemical compounds such as oxides or carbonates formed on the surface of metal during exposure to weathering. Patina also refers to accumulated changes in surface texture and colour that result from normal use of an object. In terms of antiques, "Patina is everything that happens to an object over the course of time. The nick in the leg of a table, a scratch on a table top, the loss of moisture in the paint, the crackling of a finish or a glaze in ceramics, the gentle wear patterns on the edge of a plate, piles of grain and rust in the back of a 110. All these things add up to create a softer look, subtle colour changes, a character. Patina is built from all the effects, natural and man-made, that create a true antique." - Israel Sack

I have seen, but can't now find, a wiring diagram and description of how to wire an alternator to give a rev counter output. The rev counter on my RRC uses this but apparently any alternator can be modified if you know how. Can anyone help? I have searched here and tech archive to no avail but now fully expect to be bombarded with clickies to threads in both the above. Thanks in advance Steve

I use Google for all sorts of things so downloaded the Google Toolbar into my web browser. It sits at the top of my screen and contains its most useful feature, a one click spell checker. As has been said I accept that, as an engineer, I cannot spell but that is no excuse for not using a checker. Steve

Went along to spectate. What a great event. Took some pics with a carp camera. http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/S...olf%201%202008/ Steve

Try one of these. Steve

Anyone know how I will recognise 'Boothy'? I have a washer pump for him. Just leaving now. 07801713979 Steve

I believe the flat beam with the angle is primarily a function of the metal shield in the bulb with the pattern in the headlight glass having a lesser effect. The bulb has a tag on it that locates in a slot in the headlight bulb holder. The main difference between a RHD and LHD light is the position of the slot. You could experiment by bending the tag back on the bulb and turning it about 45 degrees clockwise which should put the angle of the beam on the other side. On the Hella headlight units in my Ultima you only undo a screw, turn the body, and tighten the screw. Steve

Have you tried a belt treatment? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=220211231424 Not had reason to use it myself but am told they work. Steve

Can't see any benefit for the storage compartment at the moment as you will not be able to access it when the back of the truck is full of other kit. As said a full sheet across the top of, and bolted to, the wheel boxes with a vertical divider running up the centre of the floor and another a few inches out from the offside wheelbox (to deal with the door stay). This space can be used for long bits like a highlift jack, brollies etc. Build two drawers. For variety the drawer could have opening tops and drop down trestle type legs on the end so that it can be pulled out to its stops and used as a table or work surface. With both drawers out and one of those rear tents the drawers could be the end of your double bed. Just some thoughts. Steve

I love the way people use the term 'comes out easily' in the same sentence as 'Oak log' and 'Larger sledge hammer'. Is this unique to the LR branch of engineering? Steve

If it's doing it on both fuels then I would look to ignition. Have you checked to see if the igniton advance is working both mechanical and vacuum? Steve

Can you explain the function of the drawer and the compartment to the right. Knowing what the bits will do, and carry, will help in deciding how it is built and how strong it needs to be. What is going in the drawer? What is going in the compartment? What will be stowed on top and would you expect to walk or crawl over it? Steve

We can't of course see how badly scorred the crank is but if you have made your mind up that the shaft is not going to be replaced then I would fit a new key, new or secondhand pully and bed it all on Loctite 603 or 648. Disassembly in the future would be slightly more difficult but that may just be the price to pay. Before you fit it all try the pulley and new key. If the fit is not good then file a new oversize key for best fit. Steve

My vote is the pump. Most systems have the heater bypassing the thermostat. Don't know what that pump looks like but have seen failed pumps on other motors where the impeller has erroded away or plastic ones where the vanes have snapped off. Steve

Can someone tell me why a steel rope uses a fair-lead with rollers but a synthetic rope just has an alloy guide? It would seem that people have the roller fair-lead but do not keep it when they change to synthetic. Thanks Steve

I have an involvement with a 110 which has a different clamp arrangement. The wheel is stowed upside down and a simple 'U' section bar goes across the 2 bolts. Is this unique? Steve

Having watched a number of LR being pulled or winched out of trouble yesterday it became obvious that it was taking all the drivers might to get the steering in the direction of pull rather than the rut they were stuck in. Based on that I would think the quick box was not a good idea unless it was for use in a racer. Steve

Carl Could you post or PM me a price please. Thanks Steve

This is what I was thinking about. If the guard is mounted to the chassis then all the gear I need to protect (apart from the steering box) are now 2" lower than a standard setup so not as well protected. Steve

Am looking for a RRC Steering Guard and of course there are dozens of designs out there. What none of them indicate is anything specific for a 2" lift. The way I see it is that now I have a 2" lift the guard will need to be going on 2" deeper than a standard one or am I missing something? Can anyone answer the 2" lift issue then recommend a value for money guard? Many thanks. Steve

Sure you already know but worth reminding. Your new cam and the lifters must be coated with the best cam lube you can get. Start the engine and run it at 2000rpm minimum for 20 minutes. You can vary the revs a little but don't drop below 2000. If you have to stop the engine just cut it without letting it come back to tick-over. Steve

Couple of drips of tool oil into the hose fitting before you use the tool each day will be fine. Steve

The pump (and its pickup) lives in the tank and hangs down from the top of the tank. When you fit it to the replacement tank you do not want it hanging in mid air or there will be fuel in the tank that the pump can never reach. The pump can be adjusted up and down it's mounting bracket. I have a tank going spare but being on the south coast that will not help you much. Steve

Once the oil supply is compromised the case hardening on the lifter fails and rips the cam up pretty fast after that. I had a cam like that once. Steve