steve_d

I was given a broken, hand-me-down, Wanner gun which I repaired. I've had it for forty years now. Steve

If it has not been used at night much then a vigorous waggling of the switch may clean a dirty contact or two. Will most likely still need a new one but perhaps not this weekend. Steve

The flap is locked as part of the central locking. First make sure the locks are in the open position and also try locking and unlocking the door and listen for the actuator which is below and slightly behind the filler flap. You can get at it from behind the trim inside but there is no access hatch as such. Steve

FF Good call on the return. Had not thought of that. If it is flowing on the return the pump has to be both running and at or beyond the required pressure. Steve

Got a catalogue and price list from these guys recently http://www.shiremoorcompressors.co.uk/ Has compressors and all the drier bit in there. Makes a nice read. Steve

If you can connect a pressure gauge to the pipe removed as above you can also check you have the right pump. Think you're looking for about 35psi from memory. Steve

SVA will have no issue with shortening only how well it is done. I expect they would prefer to see a scarf joint rather than a vertical cut and will expect to see it either plated on each face or an angle piece along each chassis corner. If you try and put the strengthening on the inside they will be difficult to convince. If at all possible the joints should be in a different position from one chassis rail to the other. It will be a Q plate. Not sure how the chassis number works you may be able to retain yours. First step is to talk to your local DVLA office. Don't phone, go to the office. If you can, make an appointment, this way you are more likely to get someone who knows about these mods rather than someone who happened to be passing the phone. Take with you lots of photos, all your paperwork (neatly in a ring binder) and be very enthusiastic. If the inspector you meet sees how passionate you are about this the more inclined he/she will be to help you through the process. You need to be well on into your build before this as they may want you to either bring it to them for an inspection or come out to see it. Again how good it looks will make a big difference. My previous dealings with DVLA went thus. Lady inspector appears and rips up for a**e paper the two guys who are trying to present a ringer Moggy in order to get its cherished plate. Comes over to my kitcar, says how very pretty it looks and can I see the engine number and VIN. Job done. Steve

My RRC has an earth strap from the body (a stud beside the servo) down to the chassis (on the side of the body mount at the front of the drivers footwell). There are a number of other engine to chassis straps. What colours are the wires on the relay? Steve

I would not want to score or notch it as that will create a stress riser and it will crack at some point in the future. It would probably crack as you tried to bend it. You need to anneal it and plan for a bend with no smaller than 8mm radius. Steve

I will be going from Waterlooville Hants to Dakar near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire and back again in about 2 to 3 weeks time to pick up some parts. Will be pulling a 5'x3' trailer behind my Pug 306. Will be empty on the way up, less so on the way back. Early warning but I will bump this when I know the actual date. Steve

Sounds rather well stuck. All the ones I've done in the past have freed just by banking on and off the throttle in the traditional learner driver kangaroo jumps. Steve ETA You have ensured the clutch is actuating and is not out of fluid or something. (don't know what the release mechanism is).

I have used and had recommended to me BAX Global. Steve

How about engine and gearbox mounts? Steve

A 'T' shirt and a Rugby shirt in XL for me please. Steve

Back in 2004 I paid $3229 for my Chevy engine parts. Then the following when it got here. Delivery charges £132.22 Airline handling £25.00 Custom duties £76.33 Customs VAT £404.66 Customs clearance £30.00 Delivery imports £18.00 Deferment fee £10.00 I live on the south coast and was advised by the shipper to declare Bournemouth as the port of entry. The shipment came into Heathrow then into a bonded truck down to Bournemouth where it went through customs. The reason was that Bournemouth customs charge less….work that one out. Steve

Unless you have other reasons to change you can get through several sets of easy to change bushes for the price of cranked bars. Steve

Bill Good man. What do I do now? Should I PM you for an address as I assume I need to send it all off to you? Do they do a 'hero worship' smiley? Steve

Bill Have tried power without sensor but the led does not flash as it used to when doing a free air cal so I guess it is shot. I bought it from DIYAutotune in the States so there's no merit in trying to get them to replace it. If you believe it is the best wideband to have then what is your best price for a new one. Steve

Bill Is there a way to do this ’hard calibration’ when it won’t even talk to the computer? I have heard a lot about the grounding issues and confess it baffles me how putting all the earths on one terminal is wrong but putting them in say a terminal block works. I have all mine in a terminal block. Steve ETA Should also say I took to switching it on after starting the engine as the engine is a 6.7litre small block Chevy but the car only has a small motor bike type gel battery so the volts drop quite low during cranking and I heard that the LC-1 does not like low volts so thought that may be why it was locking up after starting.

Hi I bought an LC-1 to go with MS I want to install in my Dakar. Before doing the MS I wanted to see how the carbed engine in my Ultima was performing so installed the LC-1 there first. After many failed attempts I managed to get it working but am far from confident with what it was saying. If I do a full free air cal, then start the car, then the switch on the LC-1 I could get it to work but if I stopped it and restarted it would just lock up. I tried this many times but now it won't even boot up to do a cal. The led does not light and the display just flashes on and off a reading of 7.4. The sensor does not heat and a laptop thinks the LC-1 is not switched on. Any ideas before I kick the whole pile of plop over next doors fence? Can you tell I'm not happy? Thanks in advance Steve

Sounds like the answer you wanted. Unless you intend to go wading you leave that hole open and as I said, alongside the hole is the bung. You remove it from its stowage position and screw it into the drain hole. Steve

Two possible suppliers. Boyrivens catalogue does not contain pics which does not help but when I have had trim questions in the past these places seem to know exactly which trim you need for each make and model. Woolies, I believe, work more with the kitcar market but they still seem to have a good range. http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/DEFAULT.ASPX http://www.boyriven.co.uk/ Both have been quite happy to send out samples. Steve

He's trying to get it to smile. Steve

The hole with the bolt in is the drain hole for the bell housing and the gear teeth you see inside is the starter ring gear on the flywheel. If oil is coming out then you need to identify what type it is. It could be engine oil indicating you have a leaky rear crankshaft seal or it could be transmission oil which has a distinct smell and may appear to be red. The transmission oil could be leaking from the seal between the transmission and the torque converter. That bolt hole is normally left open, which you should do unless the oil leak is extreme. It may take a while for anything to drain out before you can assess how bad the leak is. The hole is normally plugged when you take the car off road so that you don't get water in there. You can see the blanking plug (with the square head) parked to one side of the hole. Steve

Is the kickdown cable still in place and adjusted? Don't know if it makes a difference but at least it is something on the outside you can get too. Steve