steve_d

Is it a single lip seal? Often the seal will wear a groove in the crank so even fitting a new seal may not cut it. If you have the old seal you can read the seal size as a breakdown of the part number moulded into it. Take the seal to a seal/bearing supplier who will be able to find you either a double lip seal which should fix the problem or a narrow version of the single lip. With this seal you drive it right back into the housing and because the seal is narrower the lip will sit on a different part of the shaft. Steve

As HFH said, loose baffles. As the box heats up they expand and become a good fit again. May not last though as, in time, they will no longer grip when they get hot. When they get bad you can sometimes work out where the baffle is and either fix it in position with some deft hammer blows or even drill holes in the right place and weld through the hole to attach the baffle. Steve

A collapsed flexi would only lock one brake on or perhaps the back ones but not all of them. Steve

Have you had the brake pedal assembly apart? This problem (not unique to LR) is normally when the rod and master cylinder piston do not return full travel at which point a port in the cylinder is opened allowing the fluid you sent to the brakes to return. Things to look for are: Failed pedal return spring or pedal itself sticking. If the mechanism has been dismantled and not refitted correctly. Servo sticking or leaking diaphragm. Early sign of the master cylinder seals failing where they become soft and expand. On that note have you used DOT5 fluid which can do this to some seal types. Steve

What colour wires are going to each of them? Steve

What, no video? Steve

If you drop the belt off you could use a strap or chain wrench on the pulley. Steve

Am I reading these photos correctly? Looks to me as if the alt is being driven from the A/C pulley. If this is the case then the A/C belt is having to carry the load of both A/C and alt. putting its load calcs way off the scale. Steve

If you choose to do so you can also build the whole ecu from a kit. Which is what I am doing. First will be the Rover V8 in my Dakar then the Chevy V8 in my Ultima. Steve

Could just be the linkages are stiff. Does it have a lock button up through the top of the door? Have found those stiff in the hole. Steve

Try these. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...n.php#powerconn Steve

More than happy to join in. Steve

All done. Nice shiny Bosch starter flings the motor over very nicely. £118 from CAF. Thanks all Steve

I use Cromwell but there may not be a branch close enough for you. http://www.cromwell.co.uk/branch Or mail order http://www.namrick.co.uk/ Steve

Save a fair chunk of weight too. Steve

Spot on HFH. CAF are on my way home from work. Can you remember if they require an exchange. Steve

I have no idea but size and material type would help those who know about these things. Steve

The main rad will disconnect and lift out. The aircon rad can be lifted and laid over the wing. You can release the pressure of the aircon but this would not be environmentally friendly. An A/C engineer would release it into a sealed container for disposal. Steve

More info please. Which side of bulkhead? engine/cab. Description of connector Wire colours? My 87 V8 efi has a cluster of wires on the bulkhead which I now know to be for diesel glowplug timer etc. Steve

MY starter has had a melt down. Marked 1986 so can't complain. Had a search which told me not to buy Prestolite which is unfortunately the only make Google is finding me. The previous thread said Bosch or Valeo. So 1987 3.5 efi RRC. My catalogue says RTC6061N. The motor removed says Lucas 26801D Type M78R(1.4) Can someone give me alternative Bosch or Valeo part numbers and, if you have it, the best place to buy? Thanks in advance Steve

When dealing with your children you have to snatch every advantage offered you. Steve

I have an alloy floor looking for a good home. Steve

Rub it down by hand. If you use an air tool you could put a flat on it. Steve

If the extra width was an issue could you not just change the offset of the wheel rims? Steve

Don't know what I'm talking about here but if the slave and rod can be removed and as said the rod has punched through the arm then can you make a larger end on the rod with weld so it can't go through the existing hole. May last a month or so. Steve