Ian Barrett

If its the A frame bush then its name is f***ing ba****d !

I dropped in as I was in the area. It was 3:40 as I walked in. It didn't cost me an entrance fee, most of the stands were either gone or being stripped. Yet I still managed to spend £70 in the 10 minutes I was there!!

Thanks for the reports chaps, it helped hugely and yesterday I bought the tmax ba2663 at the Chatsworth show. The only issue was It weighs a ruddy ton and after getting home I found it cheaper with free delivery. I don't really mind paying a bit more but the galling thing is I needn't have carted it the full length of the show ground and the car park after all. At least I can get the Anderson connector on it today and stop worrying about having a puncture.

After fitting an Anderson connector under the bonnet last week I went to fit a connector to my 12v compressor to find it's been nicked out of the back of the Landy in the last couple of weeks. When I bought it 18 months ago Tmax were all the rage but having a look for a replacement the reviews of their longevity aren't good. My old compressor was one of the unbadged twin pump versions like the Britpart ones, which I got at Donnington because all the TMax ones were sold, but it seemed bloody good for the limited amount of use I got out of it before it was nicked. This is strictly an in-car tool for filling the tyre if I get a puncture. I have a 150l compressor in the garage if I need proper air :-) Is there is an alternative and reliable unit around the 100 quid mark? Do I take the bad reviews I've seen with a pinch of salt and get the Tmax Adventurer Heavy Duty, or stick with the Britpart double pump Thanks for your help. Ian

If you can get them to M1 J24 tonight I am going to South Ockendon first thing in the morning so could meet somebody north London area. Probably no good to you at such short notice but I thought I'd mention it.

The handles and door lock button are really nice eh. But thats £150 :eek:

Thanks for the advice guys. The chassis is in pretty decent nick. I've had a replacement rear crossmember and had to repair a rust hole at the back of the chassis leg but I overhauled it 2 winters ago and it's in good nick. Security is paramount because I have a canvas truck cab. So I've always got it in mind. But again I have it reasonably well covered with a handbrake lock and kill switch. I would like to investigate a fuel lock system though. And anything From the cab i want to lock away gets put into a mobile storage systems drawer in the back which can be locked and padlocked. Shame about the Mach 5s Maybe I'll just get my modulars refurbished then, or buy new which I think might be cheaper.

Well I decided I really don't like the MudStuff handles and I've bought replacement proper door handles. Sometimes progress isn't all its cracked up to be!

Bugger, I should have mentioned I have push button doors. Thanks for the help so far chaps.

Morning chaps, SWMBO told me last weekend to stop lusting after newer Defenders and just get mine sorted out, and spend up to £5k on it. So as I always do as I'm asked I have a few projects. A 200tdi Engine and gearbox is already in the pipeline from this very forum which will replace my 19j TD Now on my wish list is to sort out the wheels and doors Doors first then My door bottoms have been slowly disappearing for years and the doors no longer close properly. I'll have to give this to someone else to do so I need to know what parts they will need. Can they reuse the door skins? They are in very good nick apart from some ali corrosion along the bottom edges but I think thats just surface stuff, I just don't know if they can peel the skins enough to weld in the new pieces without damaging them Does anyone have a recommendation of where to get the door bottom repair panels. Then wheels I like the original Mach5's but they sometimes look a bit, err, how can I put this. Not very neat. Were there quality issues at one time and has anyone had any new ones recently. Do the newer alloys fit the early Defenders? I ask because I've ready we can't put boost alloys on. Or I could just get my current modulars either replaced or repainted. But i've always lusted after the Mach5's Thanks as always. IanB

Chuffing hell, I thought I had a bad day after a 6hr round trip in the car made my arse numb. Good luck sorting it all out.

Depends on what you want the lights to do. Because I converted my 90 to a soft top I lost the interior light, but I recently installed a strip of LEDs under the odd little dip on the passenger side of the dash and under the steering cowl on the drivers side. Both are switched by the normal interior light switch down by the hazard switch and both just run on 12v so just get soldered straight to the old wiring. On the passenger side I used a cheap 3528 strip like the ones below and it is a perfect fit without any trimming. They are bright white and great for map reading as they don't throw out so much light that it bothers me when I'm driving. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-30CM-15-SMD-3528-LED-DECORATION-RED-LIGHT-CAR-DAYTIME-LED-STRIPS-12V-UK-STOCK-/111298490982 On the drivers side I used waterproof SMD 5050 LEDs which I bought initially for under the kitchen cupboards so they are a yellow white rather than a bright white. The 5050s throw out far more light than the 3528s so I only cut and used 3 LEDs from the roll and it lights up the drivers footwell better than any bulb system I've seen.

I cover the trailer because the sides are made from varnished softwood. The bottom is marine ply so that isn't such a concern. That and the fact you can see it through the hedge at this time of year and I don't want it to be quite so obvious from the road. I'll erect a small fence to hide it from the road but that is going to be way down my To Do list. I have a workshop and a triple garage to build before that.

Guys, I have a 6x4 trailer I use for ferrying things to the tip etc. Its a fixed side trailer with a drop / removable back and the sides are approx 2ft deep I used to keep this tucked under a tree with some old corrugated roofing panels on top and a tyre on top of them to hold them down. But I moved in October to a house where the only place I can store the trailer is by the front gate so I can't have it look like i gypsy camp there. I bought a 3m x 3m heavy duty tarp with brass eyelets from the local military surplus place to cover it but it seems to take me 1/2 hr to unwrap or wrap it every time I want to use it and it getting on my flaming nerves. Basically, I'm throwing the cover over the trailer and have a rope through all the eyelets which I then pull tight. This pulls the cover under the trailer and basically wraps it up. Then I wind the rope just under the top lip, around the trailer a couple of times, . Then to stop it flapping like mad when it gets windy I wind the rope a couple of times under the trailer then over the top then tie the rope off to the A frame. This is probably all overkill but its getting on my nerves to the point I'm starting to think I should just get a posher version of the corrugated roof panels - something like a piece of waterproof ply to plonk on the top. But the tarp is new and I'm buggered if its going to beat me. So how do you cover your trailer? Thanks for your help. IanB

Fixed. Fixed. Fixed. I fitted the new Glencoyne mounts today and my truck is back to its good old rattley self. It's no longer either trying to vibrate my fillings out or drive me mad with resonating sound. I'm chuffed to have the old girl back to normal. And my very grateful thanks to Pepe Le Pew and Snagger for the Glencoyne recommendations. Mo Murphy, get them fitted and enjoy driving again

The RV8 is a different story entirely though. Have you looked at other mounts for RV8 derived cars - such as the TVR. I have a Griffith and have uprated mounts in that a) because of the torque and b) because of the heat as the exhaust manifolds are literally inches from the mounts. These are the mounts I have in the Griffith http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-engine-mounts.html

Its probably my thread you've read about the mounts. I'm swapping my "Genuine" mounts for Glencoyne mounts on a 2.5td 19j engine this weekend. I'll let you know how different they are but put it this way, the Landy is undriveable for more than a few miles as it is. The vibration through the car very noticeable at tickover and while it isn't quite so noticeable when the speed/revs pick up it becomes a low pitch drone instead which makes my head feel like its about to explode. It really would drive me mad to be in there for more than about 15 mins.. The new mounts was a real step backwards in the cabin comfort stakes for me and I'm praying when I put in the Glencoyne versions I'll be able to hear the engine again. i reckon on 2hrs to change them over and the Glencoyne versions cost about £27 all in. Got to be worth it.

Sorry to hear this. I did try to post they were people without known fathers but some clever bugger has the software programmed to swap that word to a very unoquous phrase without nearly as much venom as the subject deserves. I'm in Nottingham and will keep my eyes peeled for anything in Red.

The new mounts were waiting for me when I got back yesterday. The difference is massively noticeable. I can't make any indentation in the centre ridge on the "Genuine" ones whereas the Glencoyne centre ridge flexes under medium pressure. I intend to take short Before and After videos to show the vibration so I have evidence when I come round to returning the Genuine ones. I may work on it tonight, otherwise it will be the weekend.

Sounds more like an air lock to me. Is there a correct process for filling one of these engines and did you follow it? How do you know the water pump even has water in it and it's not just full of air? But then again, if it didn't overheat with the thermostat out then I agree with Maverick and it's the stat that's your problem. Test it or replace it and see what happens.

Glencoyne mounts purchased, watch this space.

If they were their website and paperwork is misleading as they both state Genuine. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2870/ANR1808-ENGINE-MOUNTING-RUBBER.html?search=engine%20mount&page=1 The picture on the link shows an item just like I have. With nice square edges not the chamfered 'soft centre line' version. And although you can dig your nail in the centre line rubber you certainly can't deform it as per the Glencoyne version in the link Eric gave me above.

Well Bugger me. I've checked the pair I have on the shelf and they are the carp ones. Square edges on the middle ridge which is hard as rock. Guess I'll be calling Glencoyne then.

With a reserve price of 600,000 Euros they are going to need all the help they can get bugger, beaten to it....

Bloody hell that makes interesting reading guys. Thank you. I bought 4 mounts because I intended doing the gearbox ones too but didn't get around to this so I have this pair sitting on the shelf. I'll check them tonight and will post an update.