Wytze
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Everything posted by Wytze
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Get some used bits, and start playing around with a setup that you desire. Keep strenght in mind. Just thinking out loud here, when a half shaft goes.. Most of the time it's a short one, am i right? Why not take two coiler axles and shorten them on the long axle tube? That way you only need two bespoke halfshafts
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The tubes are steel, salisbury 80 x 8 mm
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That is what i did to, but then on a Salisbury.
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Yes, but caster will increase aswell. Weld up the holes in the series flanges, and set the coiler swivel to get that right again.
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Yes.. there would be. I think snagger used wedge's betwee the axle and spring to clear those
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I had a look, but can't find the tread . I think he used spacers between the series axle housing and the coiler swivel.
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Disco micky or mikey did this. The thread must be here somewhere. The front axle wil get wider that way.
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Nice! Fit's the 88 very well😁
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And it looks very cool... -
Ideas needed! Enlarging hole in chassis with limited access
Wytze replied to L19MUD's topic in International Forum
You vould molest a stepdrill. From the top with a grinder to make something like a bolthead for a spanner? -
Working on it with that in mind. And making it as strong as i can think of. Using M 20 rose joints with misalinement bushes. They will take M16 bolts. In my mind it will be strong enough.
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Give or take a few mm , mine is about there to. With a defender upper colom. And a p38 lower without taking anything off.
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Good to hear it's sorted
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Not sure, could be that a collar is in the wrong place.. but just to be safe. Stack the shaft with washers untill the nut still can go on. And turn it tight. To make sure that the shaft is fully seated.
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Can you pull the shaft further towards you from that side?
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Yep, spot on! I'm there to. On Defender axles. And made a test set of rods. On both front pitman arms. And did some tests. On 35's i can push it forward and backward on full lock. Just need to make a high steer bracket on the right swivel
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Thank you, Jon. That does make sense. Will move it forward. Didn't start on the cooling yet, so i have the space to do that . Thanks again.
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My mate had that to.. He pulled it apart, because he needed it to drive again. The bearing in the front cover should be blocked by some small screw's . In his, there was nothing to keep the bearing locked. Could be the same problem?
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It's lhd. And it turns the right way🙂
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The axles are spring over. The bumpstop was at 100mm in the original situation. about 4 inches. If i lower the bumpstop to give the axle more travel, i can still go to 130mm without hitting anything. All i can see is that the front crossmember is sitting to low.
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So , made a adapter plate for the p38 steering box. Tacked it on and mounted the box. Mounted it straight above the axle, but on a P38 it's in front of the axle. In my mind it's in a good place right now.. But, is it?
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Countersink the two hole's in the adaptor and use bolts instead?
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Over here the rule is this, when sorned... it needs to be off the public road and can't even stand on a open driveway. It needs to be closed off. A chain would be enough though. I live in the Netherlands . When on the drive, i would take the numberplates off.
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Porting a head is for high rpm power, yes. Smoothing out the rough edges makes it breath better , wich will give you a more lowdown and midrange power. Banking the edges in the combustion chamber helps as well.
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Are you doning some head work, or having that done? You could get some horses and some tourqs extra from the head. Would help the milage to.
