disco_al

That's insurance companies for you i'm afraid. AFAIK once written off, then MOT becomes invalid, especially if it is a recorded write off. May well be worth searching around the 'net for info on insurance write off classifications, and what they involve.

ir really depends on your insurance policy/company. some will let you have salvage rights, some won't, whichever way it goes it will be recorded as a write off and require a VIC check and new MOT once repaired. TBH if the rear quarter is buckled, then expect some more underlying damage when you start stripping trim apart. It may be worth accepting the insurance payout and getting another one If you can get slavage rights, then you may not get any payout from the insurance company.

if it's in the bottom of the timing case then i would suspect the front crank seal is leaking, as the cam seal is higher up and would show a telltale trace down the cover. worthwhile changing it while it's apart, otherwise you could end up with an early belt failure from oil contamination.

with the age, tax will not be affected,as it will still be in the standard over 1400cc bracket, just the v5. get it sent off with the changes (not forgetting supporting evidence such as recipts for engine, and engineers report stating work has been carried out properly) then get it tested.

you will (probably) not find a registered supplier who will make sticky number plates, as they do not conform to the current standards. motorworld (if you can find one open still) sell them as "identification plates", so they are still out there, although you will need to be extra careful when placing the letters/numbers that they are spaced correctly, or face a fine from mr plod.

When i eventually get round to fitting mine to the Disco, i intend to find a waterproof surface mount connector (hopefully flush mount) that can be mounted in the roof, and sealed up to stop leaks. This will then allow the bar to be easily removed, or accessory lamps to be plugged in as and when required.

Why is it that everything starts to go wrong with a Landrover at the same time???? Anyway, work this out. Took the Disco for MOT last wekk and one of the fail items was a front brake imbalance. Simple enough, new caliper and hose (working in the trade has it's advantages )will cure the problem. So job done, back for retest and it's still got an imbalance on the rollers, the RH side seems to grab slightly before the LH side, when driving it pulls up nice and straight (so it passed that anyway). Now when we changed the caliper, we had a problem bleeding the brakes (it is ABS equipped). You could push the pedal, but no fluid would come out of the caliper, unless the engine was running??? Very strange. New hose is fine, no obstructions, new caliper which was only built 4 weeks ago according to the test sheet in the box for the high/low pressure test. Any ideas as to what could be causing this problem? I am thinking possible master cylinder problem, or ABS block is faulty on the NS inner wing. If it's the ABS block would it be a huge problem to remove the ABS altogether? or shall i just remove the relay, all associated fuses and the bulb from the dash? Cheers all.

I just bought a basic one from Ebuyer for £50 delivered. The supplied software was hopeless, but with a bit of surfing i found the latest version of tomtom and installed that on there. With a bit of fiddling in the software, it can be modded to run memory map too (they all run a version of windows ce)

It sounds like there is a pulley running out of true somewhere, causing the belt to shift forwards slightly. Make sure that it is sat on all the pulleys in the correct place, it's quite easy to get it on the crank, only for it to move slightly when you fit it over the other pulleys. My money is on an out of line pulley though. If left then the belt will eventually wear through on that one edge, leading to the belt failing, and wrapping bits round the other pulleys.

Common Discovery fault with the R380 box. I have recently been advised to switch back to ATF in mine by a well respected local specialist with over 30 years experience with Landrovers - apparently the specs have changed again, and it is now recommended, as MTF is too thin for them now Will be trying it soon to see if the shift improves. Apart from fitting another box, not a lot can be done really, other than slow 1st-2nd changes

I know things are tight in this credit crunch - but that is the definition of getting your money's worth

Have you got Rave? If so all the fitting instructions are on there..

Already tried the search, but couldn't find a definitive answer. Other than power loss, how could i tell if a lift pump is faulty? When priming the fuel system there is no resistance from the lever at all, fuel still reaches the filter ok though. So, what other symptoms would a faulty lift pump give?

Behind the glovebox on the LH side. Remove it and you will see the ecu.

It's a good idea to remove the outer wing, as it will make access easier, and there is bound to be some corrosion hidden away behind there too. i have just spent 4 hours tonight doing the rh side of my 300 tdi. i've got pics of the lh side in my members vehicle thread here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=43860

you say it went on their rolling road, was this a normal rolling road, or a brake meter at an mot station? if it was a brake meter then they would tell which side has low efficiency. My money is on a sticky caliper - had the same thing recently on a defender, n/s caliper wasn't working properly.

I'll have a look inside the old downpipe that's sat waiting to be scrapped as well then, wouldn't it be oily in there if it's the turbo seals? It was only changed two weeks ago, and it has been smoking like this for a few months now (well, since i've had it)

That will be my next option, head gasket and stem seals first i think as cash is tight after our Bank Holiday getaway. Cheers all for the tips, advice and pointers - faultless as always

never thought of that, d'oh none of the intercooler hoses have got excessive amounts of oil in them either - oh well, i'll change the stem seals and take it from there, it's a damn site cheaper than a recon turbo.

is it accessible? if so, then why not grind the top off (carefully), then use a stud remover when the head has been removed?

GA is the model year IIRC, so it is quite an early one. For the £35 they charge, you do get quite a bit of info off them

looking on Rave there is a plug behind the rhr trim panel that has got a blanking plug in it, remove and plug the wires into that. there is a grommet in the floor already for the wire to pass through

try a w67/2 mann filter, much more readily available as it fits a multitude of cars - mainly small jap stuff cross references AC Delco X139 AC Delco X115 ADL ADT32107 ADL ADD62101 ADL ADG02110 Automotive Products LK3862 Bosch BOF1023 Bosch 9181474023 Coopers Filters Z696 Crosland 366 Crosland 2066 Daewoo 96565412 Daihatsu 16510-73010 Daihatsu 16510-73000 Daihatsu 15601-87706 Daihatsu 16510-73001 Daihatsu 15601-87702 Daihatsu 15601-87201 Daihatsu 15601-87103 Daihatsu 15601-87106 Daihatsu 15601-87203 Delphi FX0064 Fiaam FT4985 Fleetguard LF3690 Ford 5012577 Fram PH2954 Knecht AW132 Mahle OC92 Mahle OC292 Mann W814/81 Mann W811/81 Mann W712/26 Mann W67/2 Micro T9337 Motaquip VFL445 Motaquip VFL293 Motaquip VFL226 Motaquip VFL247 Motorcraft EFL288 Nippon-Denso 115010-1220 Opel 93156662 Opel 91125559 Opel 25067035 Opel 25014441 Powertrain PMFL95 Purflux LS908 Quinton Hazell QOF5336 Savara SO436 Savara 9.28.436.17 Suzuki 16510-73013 Suzuki 16510-73001 Suzuki 16510-73000 Suzuki 16510-73002 Suzuki 16510-73012 Suzuki 16510-73010 TJ Filters FB5336 TJ Filters FB5325 Technocar R926 Technocar R922 Technocar R2640 Technocar R239 Technocar R645 Unipart GFE284 Vauxhall 93156662 Vauxhall 25067035 Vauxhall 25014441 Vauxhall 91125559 Vauxhall Bedford Light CV 93156662 Vauxhall Bedford Light CV 91125559 Vauxhall Bedford Light CV 25067035 Vauxhall Bedford Light CV 25014441 Veco VY2029 Wipac CA159 Wix WL7085 Mann filter specs HTH

Right, carried out my little test i mentioned inthe previous post lunchtime, completely removed the top intercooler hose, let it idle, revved it a bit - nothing whatsoever out of the intercooler, other than fresh air, large puff of whiteish/greyish/blueish smoke out of the exhaust - so i am suspecting the stem seals giving me grief.

Another bit of info to throw into the mix - when it was doing it Friday morning, there was a really pungent smell of oil fumes in the cabin as well. A couple of very good mechanic friends (both diesel experts with 50+ years between them) have also suggested an injector fault. Would it narrow things down better if i remove the top intercooler hose, start it up and let it idle, and then give it a rev or two? Surely if it was the turbo, then i would get smoke from the intercooler hose, rather than the turbo, and if it was engine related ie injector or stem seals, then i would get the exhaust smoke?