disco_al

the key fobs are notorious for failing on the P38. there was something in one of the LR comics a few months ago about them. IIRC they are readily available from the 'net

i've got visions of sliding under the truck to do some work, and one of the plugs letting go.......

ahh - back in the AM days moreso i suppose, but in the early 90's when i had my first rigs (i miss my 148 gtl-dx) it wasn't so much of an issue.

can't see it being that much of an issue, they never used to police the frequencies that much in the old days of cb - i remember when the shout used to go out and aerials used to disappear overnight "look out - the dti are in town" lol

as long as the parts are OE spec then it doesn't matter how much you pay - but from a good local motor factor, expect to pay about £40-£60 for them. personally i would find a Bearmach agent and get them from there

no longer needed in the UK since early this century IIRC

How can they "close" a frequency that's set by the unit itself? it's not as if CB's use relay/repeater stations to broadcast, so old uk40 models should still work, and not become obosolete

only one that springs to mind is the little balls that hold the boot struts on not being correctly torqued at the factory.

check/replace the starter relay too, if that's at fault then it may not be letting enough voltage through to the starter circuit

is th epump making any strange, louder than normal noises? just going through a similar problem with my 3.5 disco, no power under load, pops and bangs etc....but runs fine on LPG. have changed the cap, arm, leads and plugs as well as the fuel filter. when it happened, i had not long traversed a side slope of about 35 deg ish, and only had 1/4 tank of fuel, and the pump is making a louder than it used to noise.

considering the amount of time, lack of updates to the despatch and tracking details and everything else - then no, i wouldn't use them again - in fact i would return everything to them for a full refund, including return shipping costs.

could be the bias springs (the ones that align the gearlever between 3rd and 5th) - have a look in Rave - it details how to change them, worst case scenario is the synchro's/layshaft have given up. can you still get reverse?

what about one of those air con bombs you can buy to deodorise a/c systems? pop the top, lob it in and shut the door - may be worth a go.

IIRC jack up the front, and try to turn the wheels, the one that turns the prop (when diff lock is on) is ok, the knackered one won't turn the prop.

standard 3.2mm fuel hose, gates part # 3225-10050 about £2.50/metre

from memory it bolts from the starter to the block behind the turbo. although it's probably better to run a longer one from the starter to the chassis somewhere.

if you are replacing it, can you get access to cut the pin off? if so, then hack it to death, and get the remains pressed out

having owned a 200 tdi disco, and currently running a 300 tdi disco, i am much more inclined to say that the 300 is definately more refined/quieter than the 200 was - if that's down to soundproofing then fairy snuff. my old one had done 220k when i sold it, and my 300 has got 162k on the clock and still returns 40+mpg on a run. having used it twice so far for towing, once light duty, and yesterday for pulling a 1 ton mini digger and about a ton and a half of dirt on a 16ft ifor williams twin axle trailer (must have been close to the 3.5 ton limit) it definately pulls better than both the 200 and the v8 ever did. to be fair, everyone is going to have their personal favourite, and there are bound to be a few out there that never have any faults, law of averages states that. IMHO i would say that the 200 is better suited to the defender than the disco, and likewise, the 300 is better suited to the disco.

the clunk could be any number of things - prop joints, slack in the diffs/gearbox/transfer box. the engine not switching off will be either a broken wire to the stop solenoid (on top of the injector pump) or the actual solenoid itself. have a look on the injector pump for a single wire going to a round ish type protrusion, that's the stop solenoid, when you turn the ignition off, it cut's the fuel supply in the pump.

first, are you running standard or oversize tyres? on that age, it is an electronic sende unit, bolted to the back of the transfer housing, where the cable would usually go. could be that playing up.

First step i would suggest would be to find a local landrover independant specialist with nanocom/testbook and get it plugged in to find the fault code - before spending huge amounts of cash on replacing parts at random.

my first step would be to take them to a hydraulics specialist/tractor dealer (someone who deals with making the high pressure hoses), obvioulsy Pirtek will be out as they are hopeless if you ask any form of question, and seek their advice. alternatively, what about using air line style BSP connectors? use the ones with the barbed tail/female fitting in the rubber hose, and the corresponding male ends fitted and crimped into the metal pipe?

IIRC 200's had twin line brakes and 300's have got single line

sounds like an internal collapse of one of the flexible hoses to me. as you are braking, the fluid is being forced under pressure into the caliper, past the restriction, when you let go of the brakes, the restriction closes back up, causing the caliper to bind, until the pressure eventually releases itself back. change the flexi hoses first.

I think i have got the idea....... that would help the explanation a bit - thanks.