disco_al

sounds like the heat generated from using the handbrake has knackered the cable, may be worth trying to release the cable from the lever, see if it springs off that way.

my old 200 disco never got warm at all during the winter, even after the 5 or so miles i did at 50-60 mph, there was hardly any warmth from the heater. i resorted to using the ever faithful gaffa tape to block the grille off, from the intercooler across, improved things to a more liveable state.

Marks and Spencer doing tyres now???? Got Cooper Discoverer ST's on the disco, and well impressed with them, fantastic grip on snowy stuff.

you used to be able to get a disconnect switch with a separate fused wire to supply clocks etc.....think it was called dis-car-nect or something similar. best bet for battery knock out is a standard type isolator switch with removable key, or even a proper key switch. just run a small 5 amp fused supply to keep clock and radio settings.

something that could easily be missed - what about the tyres??? a mate of mine who has got a Focus had a similar issue, strange rythmic humming noise from the rear, that sounded like the wheel bearing, he swapped the tyres and the noise disappeared. could be worth a try.......

same here - i feel your loss

shouldn't do, as the air will pass through the intercooler anyway.

but when purchased by the twist top corsa driving brigade from halfrauds, it's got a proven 20bhp power gain when used in conjunction with a hair drier turbo.

basically, yes. grab a copy of the rave cd's and it tells you on there how to remove the various panels. body can be removed in one piece too.

no, it will need an IVA if the chassis is modified in any way

They are just big mice at the end of the day with really long noses, you know when you've got an elephant problem, because you can never find any damn peanuts......

allegedly it's a low friction additive that coats the gears inside the box with molydenum compounds to improve the shift and quieten the box down. I have read up on a few of these additives before, and found that most people don't recommend putting it in older boxes that use a lot of phosphor bronze components, as it can destroy them. it makes a similar claim to all the other additives out there - not sure if there is any real benefit to be had, or if it's just in the mind, although the garage next door to us swear by the stuff for noisy diffs. have a read here

i know we are supposed to be getting bigger, but that seems a bit OTT to me - surely they don't need 3.5t GVW hearses????

get a drop arm of a later 300 series disco, and the tie rod from the box to the n/s wheel - does away with the ball joint in the arm, and replaces it with a normal track rod end.

sounds like a good idea to me. what about fabbing up a plate that bolts to the manifold with an outlet on it, then running some ducting to the standard heater inlet, that way you would get a better intake of warm air. bit like the old heat shields they used to use on carburrettor cars to warm the carb up.

grab a copy of rave from the tech archive, tells you everything you need to know, including quantities and grades of oil required

pop round to your motor factors and get a price on part number gxe4731, or any of these numbers Bosch 0986016210 Bosch 0001218168 Bosch 0001218152 Delco Remy DRS3084 Lucas LRS728 Marelli 063227460 Paris Rhone D9R91 Rover NAD10039 Rover ERR5009 Valeo VS104 Valeo 436052

was it a brand new lift pump or just swapped from another one?

i went with cooper discoverer st's much cheaper and just as good imho

probably one of the hoses leaking - common area is the ones that run across the front crossmember, about £150 ish + vat for the two.

or a hidden fuel filler, tucked inside the back door.

first thing to do is get some degreaser down there & jet wash it off, this will make it easier to see where the leak is coming from. as for the lack of oil in the sump, that seems very strange - they hold about 6-7 litres in total, and there is only usually a litre or so between min and max levels. might be worth draining the oil and changing the filter as a precaution. what was the level like when you last checked it?

yep - genuine valeo clutches will have valeo on them in white paint, both on the cover and the friction plate - usually on the friction material itself. 99% of new clutches (not including LUK or National/Ferodo) are also shrink wrapped together in the box and stuck to the box.

sounds like the turbo outlet seals on the way out. check the joins in your exhaust system, you may find oil leaking from them. if not then split one of the joins and see how oily it is.