disco_al

exactly - and you must have owned it for longer than 12 months too. otherwise it's still worth the same as it was yesterday. but, it could still have an impact on 2nd hand prices, as ten year old cars with 12 months test on them could be snapped up by someone wanting to buy a new car next year, run the cheapo into the ground for 12 months - with the money saved splash out on a new G-whizz or something else equally pointless.

collapsed brake hose? sticky calipers? br*tpart components?

sounds like the stop solenoid to me

after some more investigating at lunchtime, i have now found the cuplrit - the abs pump relay. loose pin on it, that was causing it to behave in weird manner ie clicking rapidly, which could be felt through the brake pedal. new relay ordered for tomorrow from local auto electricians, old relay removed and ready to be junked.

Does anyone know what amp rating is on the AMR3773 ABS pump relay on a disco 1? Doesn't seem to say in rave or m/c

found the relay causing the problems (possibly). it seems to control the fan blower, as when removed that stops working. i also noticed that with this relay in place, when you turn the lights on, the radio resets, and the rev counter drops, also when the h/brake is applied, the lights go brighter - so i am thinking of adding an extra earth strap, as all was fine before i changed the box, and i don;t remember removing a strap from the box

last night the starter motor fried itself on my new disco. strange thing was, there was a clicking from the n/s footwell every second or so, and the brake pedal was pulsing in time to it (abs kicking in?). i turned the engine off, and restarted it, drove home, and when i pulled up, could smell the obvious scent of cooked starter, and it wouldn't turn over, not even a click from the solenoid. any ideas what the clicking could be? abs relay playing up maybe? although why would that fry the starter? unless the solenoid was causing an electrical short somewhere. it did the same thing with the clicking once earlier in the day, with the engine off, but with the key in position 2 (dash lights on). help please, i've spent all weekend replacing the 'box, and want to use it now

My new disco has a sheared off drain plug on the transfer box In all fairness i should have sorted it out whilst the box was on the floor, but thought at the time "there's still alump in there, it will be fine", however, after the initial test drive yesterday itwas dripping oil quite alarmingly. i have managed to stop it for now by pushing some rtv in there to stop the leak, which looks like it's coming down via the threads. any tips for removing the remains? it's a couple of mm inside the hole, so not sure of the best way of removing it.

not sure if anyone has done this before, but when we were attempting to refit the transfer box to my disco on Saturday, we were having one hell of a game getting it to sit on a jack. So, my extra pair of hands (sav4x4 on here) suggested the following; place the handle off the trolley jack across the transmission tunnel, and use a ratchet strap to lift the box. This worked perfectly. If you use the top rh mounting hole of the transfer box (the one the stud fits through) then it lifts it nice and easily, and it hangs at the correct angle to be in the right place first time. so there you go, use a ratchet strap to refit them - not sure if it works on a defender, but it does on a disco.

can anyone get me a picture of the acc. belts on a 300tdi, not so much the routing, but for the a/c tensioner and idler arrangement. mine has a strange silver idler wheel bolted into the front cover, about halfway down, with a seized bearing. i have ordered the tensioner pulley, and the idler pulley, but neither of them look right. cheers

I think you can now get them as separate items if you speak to Bearmach. They supplied us with a slave about a month ago.

Replacement 'box sorted now £250 for a recon unit with 3k miles on it - rebuilt by a local, well respected landrover specialist - and he is supplying a cross drilled input gear for the transfer box too.

my suspicions are partially confirmed. stripped the sender unit out, and the plastic cup the pump sits in had some grotty carp in the bottom, so is suspect it sucked some into the filter. so new fuel filter time methinks.

no, i've got a 300 tdi waiting for a new 'box on th drive just want to get this one working again now too it's only playing up on petrol, lpg is fine with no misfires, so don't think plugs are an issue really

Went upto Rhayader today to have a nose round the dams, and on the way back down decided to follow the old drovers road, rather than stick to the boring tarmac Normally i do off road using petrol power, so switched the gas off and proceded along the lane, bit rough in places, requiring low range and some careful use of the brakes to negotiate some rather lumpy sections. Anyway, after one section i stopped the Disco to take a few snaps, got back in and started it up. This is where the problem started, it idles fine, but as soon as you try to give it some gas (and it likes it's gas ) it misfires and splutters all over the place, my initial thought was damp ignition circuit, and it would clear, so kept giving it some revs to try and clear it. This didn't work it was still missing and backfiring, switched back to the lpg, and it runs fine, usual levels of power, ticks over lovely etc, but as soon as back on petrol, there is nothing, just misfires, pops and bangs through the air filter, and there is no power at all By the time we go back to the main road, the lpg was running low, so we only just made it to the nearest LPG station. I have grabbed the hotwire diagnostics manual, and will give the air flow meter a check tomorrow (that's my suspicion). It's got to be fuel related, as opposed to ignition, as it wouldn't run on lpg properly if it was ignition related. Any thoughts from the V8 guru's out there??? (MSquirt is not an option ) It's a 3.5 hotwire EFi, 1990 vintage.

looking at the ashcroft pages, it's a 28E code transfer box. any idea how many teeth it should have on the input gear? my guess is a ftc4850, 38 tooth gear. looking at rave, it's a reasonably easy job to change it.

hmmm, sounds like a good idea. would be tempted to replace the gear, although some doughnut in the past has sheared the drain plug off would this be easy to remove while the box is off?

Does anyone know if i will need to replace the transfer box as well? or is it just going to be the splines on the mainshaft that are knackered??

How much for those Halfrauds bulbs???? The xenonmax ones are two for that price.

Managed to escape decorating long enough yesterday to spend some time on it Stripped centre console out, nothing wrong with linkages, so off came the PTO cover - shaft spinning happily in the middle of the gear not good. So off came the transfer box, just the gearbox to go now. Going to phone a few local friends with Disco's they are breaking and source a replacement box today. Only trouble is, it needs a new rear crank seal before it can go back together

Looks like the car the Ant Hill Mob used to drive in Wacky Races :)

Ring Xenonmax give good results - heard a lot of good feedback from various customers about them

Had a similar problem on mine, the filler plug was that well seized that i snapped a spanner off. took the top swivel out and filled through there in the end

excellent cheers.

My newly purchased 94 300 tdi es has not got any of the remote fobs with it. how do i know which fob i would need to order, as there are several different frequencies?