disco_al

iirc you need the flange and prop off a 200 tdi, or at least the prop flange to mate to the correct drive flange

:) yep, and Lisa Rogers could drink like the proverbial. They used to use HMS engineering in Hereford for a few things, as did Top Gear for their Limo challenge

As per the title really. I was watching a re run the other day and thought "Why don't LR4x4 and HoFS enter a combined team?" With the level of skill we have around the forum, I am sure that a seriously competative team could be assembled to take on the challenge. What do you guys think???

what age disco? if it's a 300 it could be the rubber doughnut on the diff, but does sound more likely to be a prop u/j on the way out

ummmm, 5 spd manual on mine, thinks it's the lt230? the thread i found was on www.discoweb.org loads of useful info on there. i would imagine that the procedure would be the same for manual/auto.

there was a Disco pickup in LRO a couple of months back IIRC. based on a 3dr. He used the rear door to infill behind the cab, and the lower half of the rear door to make a tailgate. B & Q guttering supplied the cappings for the bodywork

do i detect a subtle hint of bitterness there lara??

how much wiggle is there? IIRC from another thread on props, about 3-4mm of play is fine in that bearing, as it's a standard ball race, not a taper bearing. that's the prop output bearing, i did find a thread on how to replace it without removing the trans box somewhere..... bearings are quite cheap, IIRC £10 from Bearmach

pm sent

wouldn't a series II disco provide more length for snoozing? IIRC they were longer than the 200/300's

take no 1 plug out (LH bank at the front) and dizzy cap off, noting where no 1 plug lead connects to. turn engine over on crank pulley until the rotor arm points to the right place (if the cap was on). once you get to that point you are fairly close. i find it easiest to put a screwdriver into no 1 plug hole at this point, and slowly turn the crank pulley, you will feel when the screwdriver reaches TDC, as it will start to descend again.

what lump? and is it in bits?

i was about to suggest the u/j's, having just done my front prop over the weekend. but it sounds a bit more involved than that. as for getting them reconned, try allspares, as they have a prop recon service, but it costs around the £100 mark from memory - although as LR's use fairly standard joints it may be a lot less. check the prop flanges for play, maybe some slack appearing there? what were the joints like on the props you removed?

when oil and water mix you usually get emulsification, in other words, it thickens and forms a creamy coloured substance that is commonly referred to as mayonnaise. gear oils usually turn a lovely shade of grey/brown/cream, depending on the amount of water. as for the swivels, i usually find that jacking the front up, removing the wheel, and then loosening the top swivel bolts is enough to check for water ingress, as any that has got in usually drips out the bottom. if it does, then it pays to strip and clean the bearings before the get ground to paste. generally speaking, you can jack a landrover under the diff, or anywhere along the axle. i usually jack under the diff, then support with stands on the outside of the front radius arms. props are easy enough, get a grease gun and pump the joints full of the stuff, you will usually see some escape the seals when there is enough in there.

gnerally speaking if you have dunked it in water, then lubricate everything, prop joints etc being the main ones. check the fluids for water ingress, swivels, axles etc. if it's been a day long thing, eg playing at an off road site, then it may just pay to change it all.

Brilliant

all we did was swap the alloy flywheel housing from the n/a to the tdi block, fitted perfectly.

swapping the body shell shouldn't constitute an SVA, as you have not altered the chassis/running gear. only the bodyplan. same as cutting the back off a 3dr disco and making a pick up, leaving the chassis intact of course, no change to chassis - no sva - as it's only a change of bodyplan.

GL4/5 are interchangeable so should be fine

Used to get a similar problem at the local Sainsbury's, which is next to the local BT exhchange. Anyone with a Ford Exploder who parked too close to the exchange couldn't restart the car after the shopping because of the RF interferance affecting the immobiliser. Yours sounds like the immobiliser is not switching off, as suggested try the remote battery first.

DMF's will usually rattle when on the way out. Check it when in bits, if it's blue, then bin it. If it has small radial cracks - bin it. Better still, just bin it.

check the pressure reg housing at the back of the head, other than that, is it using excessive fuel?

year of registration is what is generally used - as construction date cannot always be determined, and reg date is on the log book. as an example, my old xr4x4, was registered in aug 1991 on a J plate, but built in the july of 1990, so technically a H plate. it's going to prove interesting in a year or two, especially with all the new cars that have been stockpiled, and hence unsold, coming intoo the markets, as they will have a build date 12-18 months before they were registered. so they will be reg'd a year newer than they really are. this is misleading, as technically, they will be due their first mot when they have only been registered for 2 years.

i do that when feeling rich enough to use some petrol up

sounds like the timing may need sorting out. change all the ignition components for good genuine ones as a start. run NGK plugs with them for a good quality spark. the other thing that will affect the power output is the weather. when it's cold the LPG system will develop less power than when it's milder, i noticed this with mine when the last cold snap finished and we got "normal" temps, the old girl would absolutely fly along, but now it's gone cooler again, the power is slightly down. so it may be worth having the LPG mixture checked out, and adjusted - it's wuite common on the older single point systems to have to adjust them for summer and winter settings to compensate for the change in the weather. you say it runs the same on LPG and petrol? when i change back to petrol on mine, there is a quite considerable change in the way it performs, as it will power along much better, with quicker acceleration, and more power.