disco_al

although in true landrover fashion, a lot of 300 bits will possibly retro fit on 200's (obviously dash and trims are different) extending the life a bit.

it's been a long day and i'm tired.......

welcome in, it's worth having a look around at what is and isn't allowed, rather than finding out the hard way it's also a good idea to post up your location - doesn't have to be accurate to the nearest 5 feet, just the town will do what do you drive in btw?

it is possible (although rather expensive) to get a coil sprung series chassis from Marsland IIRC. I priced one up last year for a friend of mine, it was going to add £500 to the basic leaf chassis - how would this affect an SVA i wonder?? i can see your point about not mentioning SVA's (although that will be replaced in the next few months - there is a good guide to it in Practical Performance Car - Jan 09 issue - with some rather interesting points) though - very naughty.

TBH it was a bit of a mish mash of bits anyway, definately LWB. problem solved with some SIII backplates, cyls & shoes. LWB pick up, SIIA front axle, SI rear axle (now with SIII brakes) and a 300 tdi engine in the front.....

sounds like another "let's squeeze some more money out of the motorist" action to me, there are bound to be quite a few that accidentally get a fine due to a computer error not that the government are desperate for cash or anything.......... hat coat exit stage left.......

yep, the gross train weight is 3.5 tons with a disco.

classic case of ebay not wanting to get involved. sounds more like it didn't sell for what he wanted to me. you are correct though, it is a legally binding contract (allegedly) between buyer/seller, if it sells then you buy it - simple, so he should, without question complete the sale. open a dispute with ebay against him - see what happens then. similar thing happened when i was going to get my first disco, won the auction for about £250, got an email from the chap saying he had gone out in it "one last time" and stuffed the front end in.....needless to say i ended up not buying it, but only after agreeing with the seller that it was unfit for sale, and not what i wanted. he disappeared from ebay shortly after altogether.....

land rovers don't leak oil, they self underseal........

sounds to me like someone is trying to get there bonus up this month. although if IIRC a few years ago, wasn't there some european directive for new cars to do with pedestrian safety, and i stress the word new here. So in reality, any such law regarding the height of the bumper would not apply to any vehicle constructed before this date? edit:- found >THIS< on a quick internet trawl, and it looks like the regs the VoSA guy was quoting only apply to vehicles after 2005, as it was part of a new directive to cut pedestrian casualties.

lump hammer? local tyre place used that on a fiesta steel a few years back that had a dent in it. depends on how deep it is really though

3.9 would be electronic control, not points. but as already has been said, dizzy and coil are the main weak points. one thing i didn't see whilst scan reading (apologies if it is in here) is to remove the viscous and fit switchable electric fans, the windmill in the engine bay creates a lot of splashback when it gets a bit deep, soaking everything in the bay.

like this one... it's in an MGB, but essentially it's a RV8

Granville Electro Connector is what it's called, Clicky Here

we used a combination of the n/a bottom hose and the disco hose, couple together with a lumo cut out of the n/a exhaust downpipe

it all depends on the angle, as they are inertia driven (most are anyway), so it may be that the angle is just that little bit off. mine has a habit of locking up completely, and not being able to pull it out to put it on (oo-er). give it a good tug and it does work though.

It depends really. if one of the tracks is not working you can get a repair kit for them. If the contact has come away from the screen, DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE, you will need to buy some special stuff, that you can get from a good PC supply shop, called silver glue - it's used for fixing heatsinks to cpu's.

excellent, cheers. Dunsfold have got them in stock

Does anyone know the part number (or where to get) some rear cylinders for a 1950 Series 1 LWB? They are the 4 bolt fixing type, and we need to source some for a customer. Have had a scan round the WWW, but can only find SII and newer....... Cheers

Got a full set of Superpro (the aussie ones) from Bearmach to go on the Disco when it warms up. Quite a good price they were too....... The deflex ones are only really good for use on cars, they just will not take the abuse of a landrover. Had Deflex ones on my XR4x4 and they were fantastic, but would not even consider them on the Disco.

disco/rrc share the same chassis, so they should fit. IIRC someone else on here fitted a RRC bar to a disco, the lower spoiler may need trimming though, depending on the bar used.

don't think it would work, as you would end up with the zinc coating going inside and destroying the sound deadening material. better bet is to spray it with lots of high temp paint, then bake it in a large oven (maybe worth talking to a local bodyshop and slipping them £5 to put it in the corner of a paint oven for a few hours)

is that reverse fade paint?? it usually goes from red to orange, but yours has gone the other way.....

i have the wires on my disco running up the N/S door pillar, as i have the aux fuses in the glovebox and the switches on the roof by the interior light (2 switches, one to isolate them from main beam, and one so they can be run independently from the main lights), fed from the 2nd battery. planning to drill the roof, then use a grommet and some silicone to stop it leaking. if you have a snorkel then run the wires up the inside of the snorkel tube.

No-one escapes the chest infection from hell round here, most people have had one of the two versions. I think i have the milder of the two at the moment.