ThreePointFive

That's really unfortunate. While you'll never be able to cure the inevitable corrosion entirely, have you looked into products like ACF50 for protecting the bodywork etc? It should at least slow it. I know you're not asking about that but it'll no doubt be an issue. I'm not familiar with the wiring on the later model but on the TD5, the warning lights are separate from the gauges so that at least tells you it's isolated to that area. Best bet is to get a multimeter and start working your way down the harness to see where the power stops.

It might be unrelated but it'll at least help to rule it out if you can say why the harness and fusebox were replaced, electrical issues can have a habit of spreading from seemingly unrelated things. Ask me how I know. My first step would be to check the earths are all connected, no wires pulled out of their connectors, headers are all where they should be and the plugs are in the right sockets (hard to get wrong with complete harnesses, admittedly).

https://bilthamber.com/product/air-con-bomb-citrus/ Like all BH products, this will be effective if you find it necessary to revisit the issue.

You're certainly flying the flag. I tend to avoid car branded things as the purpose of the object seems to be secondary to finding a place to put the manufacturer's logo (think Ferrari multitools, etc) but I don't think that's a concern for things like glasses or face coverings. Land Rover should do a hammer. Keep them coming!

I don't think we'll be getting a response, if you Google their post you will see a pattern...

I'd agree but I have made the pressure light go out just by turning it over by hand before.... Now I'm not even getting oil to the sensor after a lot of hand-cranking earlier. Now I have no MOT on the cards, I have no time pressure. I'm going to take the sump off - again - and then I can get the timing cover off and have a look. My worst fear, and the one I know will happen, is that I'll take a look and still not be any closer to knowing. I can't stand not finding the cause of these things, hope is a poor substitute for problem diagnosis. I just wish there was a tidy way to drain coolant and not have to throw half a way every time. If this goes on I might have to weigh up what the car is worth.

Yep, never had an oil pressure issue at any point in the previous two iterations of this engine and now it does this two days before the MOT. I'm looking at mothballing it until next year at this rate. This timing cover was fitted when I did the first rebuild and came with two bungs and ran in the cam so I'm happy it's meant to be run like this (plus Turners confirmed). I'm not sure of the actual brand, it was more a case of what I could actually find rather than cost.

Unfortunately not, I'd be more inclined to doubt the sensor but it was brand new with the timing cover, and the rockers did look uncomfortably dry when I looked. I'll look to buy a new sensor tomorrow just to rule it out, and a mechanical gauge isn't a bad idea anyway.

It's a 4.0 so no dizzy. I've tried filling it via the bottom and top oil cooler ports with a huge length of spare cooler pipe to generate some gravity and using the compressor at low pressure, I'm able to get oil flowing to the rockers but the light will not go out. I'm not willing to not trust the sensor, something is wrong but I haven't found it. Is there anything I could have done wrong when installing the pump? I did have to manually align it with the crank Woodruff key so could that have caused something to go out of alignment? Im grasping at straws, I had hoped I could salvage this in time for Monday but that's now out of the question.

Rocker area is dry.

A good 20 seconds at a time, feels bad doing it though. I'm just going to take the rocker cover off now.

Nope, didnt work. Any other ideas?

I switched the Tiger Seal for the stuff Peaklander suggested on the last page. Sump off, the pickup pipe was full of oil but the pump did look dry-ish. I had added a gasket to the pick up pipe that came in the seals kit I bought, as soon as I unbolted the pipe it clearly was holding some vacuum as oil came pissing out. I don't know why that would stop it getting to the pump. The gasket is the only variable I have changed as I didn't fit one before. Just waiting on the new sump sealant to set a bit and then I'll try cranking again.

In the car, fully ready to run. Looks like I can cancel my MOT for Monday.

Bought that stuff, seems good. What is definitely not good is I can't get oil pressure. I've turned it over but the light will not go out. Is my next option only to drop the sump or is there anything I can check?

Thanks, that's what I've done. Might have just made yet another mistake in a long line of mistakes. I've used Tiger Seal to seal the sump but having thought about it, I don't think it's oil resistant. Much of a risk? I have about 4 hours of work before I put it in the car so it's now or never.

Harry does a good job, as usual.

They're not actually black, it's just that light can't escape their gravitational pull. I will stop now.

If it falls off that table it'll go through the earth's crust ...

I bought Mechanix gloves because I saw AvE was using them, I am a suggestible dimwit and they look Gucci, but I found the use case for them to be incredibly narrow. You don't want to handle anything oily as they are fabric, you don't have as good dexterity as with nitrile and they didn't seem too abrasion-resistant as the finger tips wore out after about a month. I find a pair of nitrile gloves under a pair of Site-type rubber coated cotton ones will work for most uses.

Is there a particular torque setting for winding in the oil pickup pipe stud into the main bearing cap? I really don't want it coming loose.

I believe the early Merlin engines used to have an issue like this in negative-G situations.... Useless fact for you.

That's a perfectly normal sentence. I'll be honest, I haven't watched it - I just know the guy is doing it and he might talk about what it needed to convert here, or one of his other 4.6 videos. At least it shows not just that you can, but that someone evidently thought it was worthwhile enough to actually do.

Yes, they can.

Mine was done this way as I had very little room between the door tracks and the ceiling, the operator would have hit this rear cross brace if left in place. Hopefully that's clearer now.