ThreePointFive

Less likely but possible is that the guide channels can rust through, but you can't see it as the felt keeps them together. It might be that one side has snapped.

I had both, the bolts are still accessible.

I hate to say it but even after a 10 year restoration, I would sell mine tomorrow for the right offer because of these reasons. Bear in mind it's my first car, a labour of love in getting it how I want it and countless hours of work. Logic has to win out eventually.

I think Only Fans is more his speed.

I have one without the IR and with the reversing light on, it is more than sufficiently lit. I would say that judging distance on these cameras is difficult though as they are fish eyed to get the wide angle. You get used to it though.

I may be making that call tomorrow.... Oh and by the way, my battery was pronounced KIA this morning, so we were right about that.

Thanks for the responses. I have now fitted the new ones, unfortunately I already had aftermarket fixings which I was reluctant to just throw out so I've used them. One of the many improvements of the genuine cards is they can be removed more than twice, so not the end of the world if I do have to change over the fixings. I did price up the genuine fixings and a complete set comes out at £40. A lot for some plastic clips. As expensive as they are, the inside is now so much nicer.

Deerly deerparted. Van panels can be replaced at least. I hope a new bumper isn't too dear.

Disregard, I thought this was for a Defender for some reason.

Yeah I've massively over complicated this in my head as usual. On the 50th Defenders the number 4 port is blanked off so it's not even required, though not sure why the host vehicle would make a difference... I'll run the heater pipe past it, T-piece it in (haven't decided which side of the plenum), run it down under the alternator/over the timing cover and into another T for the lower rad hose. It's very simple.

I am so close to getting this thing MOTed, mostly thanks to a forum member that has gone beyond any reasonable expectation to help me. However, I have a good head scratcher for a Sunday night. I only have cold air through the heater which I put down to an air lock in the heater matrix, some googling gave answers from on here which suggest I've totally misunderstood which pipe goes where and my problem might be slightly more serious. See diagram: My pipe for 10 goes from the right place to the heater but I've done the return (12) back to where 4 is coming out of the manifold. That means 4 isn't plumbed back into the bottom of the radiator in any way. I'm guessing that the purpose of 4 is a bypass for coolant while the thermostat is closed, but not sure. I need to get 4 and 12 teed into the bottom rad hose but space is tight as I already have a connector on it for the can thermostat. What I can do is put a T piece into the pipe where the heater returns into 4 and take that down to a second T piece going to the bottom radiator hose. I'm not going to use the pig's heart contraption so I'll have to link them further up.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams This one's good, and less.....Putin-y

Just a few to begin with, all very stupid as I write them here but luckily most now rectified: Not having the liners checked for slipping when the block was first stripped Not checking piston ring gaps Not checking the valve guides properly Putting new lifters on an already-run-in cam for rear 4 cylinders Thrusting an aftermarket oil pressure sensor Not getting someone with experience to check my lifter preload and then continuously doubting my own work Not using enough assembly lube on the first build Generally not asking for help when I really should have. I'm sure most people wouldn't make these ridiculous errors, but I did.

Yeah but you've got to remember these diesel boys are operating at a dizzying 25ish mpg, next level hyper-miling... Having done two rebuilds very recently, I'll be following this with interest. I can't tell you what best practice is but I definitely made my share of mistakes.

I was wondering where you'd got to with this project, glad to see it's really coming on! Did you sell the Defender in the end?

I came to the same conclusion, so yesterday I called my local dealer and ordered some as they were the cheapest. Not good, but fresh new door cards are something you look at all the time so have to be right.

Exactly as long as it takes for a full respray, I suspect...

My aftermarket door cars for my Puma doors have been an annoyance since I fitted them, they don't sit properly on the frame and their fixings are notoriously unreliable. I've had a look around and there is some slight variation in places but I'm looking at £200 each. That seems like double what they used to sell for. Has anyone found a good source that doesn't cost half the price of a new door?

I did wonder about that but a page or two ago people seemed shocked so assumed it was taking the lack of bedding-in into account. Those numbers are on a cold engine, too. I'm just going to stop messing with it now, I can find nothing mechanically wrong.

I tried reducing the preload, made no difference to the compression so it's not that. Not even going to try on the passenger side. I've ordered a cheap and crappy leak down tester so at least I have a chance to hear where the leak is.

Having some time off to try to rule out mechanical issues before someone comes to help me with the tuning.... I've just done another compression test and I'm getting some very mixed figures. The distribution is something like this: Clearly something is very wrong mechanically. I keep thinking back to the issue of lifter noise and with the poor compression, I may very well have set the lifter preload wrong. So I'm thinking about trying something but want to make sure I'm not about to ruin my engine (any more than it is). Stupid question that I know the answer to, but I need to be 100% clear what I'm doing in my head before proceeding: adding shims under the rocker towers reduces preload, removing the spacers increases it. Correct? It's difficult to get an accurate measurement due to the shape of the heads and the lack of space, but I think the valve springs on a "closed" cylinder moved up by 1mm when I took off the rockers. I'm leaning towards there being too much preload which is putting pressure on the valves even when the are meant to be closed, which is causing a leak. So, can I safely add another shim under the rockers to reduce preload? I'm not talking anything drastic, I have three sizes and these would be ones about 0.5mm thick. I just want to see if the numbers go up or down. The added complication is that I'd prefer to try this on one side only to begin with, due to access and the amount of time it takes to do. I can't see why it would effect the other side, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I know I should try oil in the cylinders to see if it is the rings, but do I really want to foul up my spark plugs and brand new lambda sensor like this? Other option is a leakdown tester, but even the cheapest are £30 and I'm not sure at that price I can trust the numbers and I'd use it just once, which is wasteful. Thoughts or am I totally stupid here?

They're never near me or I'd want to see how a standard bumper looks on mine, I refuse to pay the prices for new ones.

I reckon Stephen could weld a LR hub into this.

When I did the whole 4x4 response thing some years ago, I quickly realised the best vehicle for it would be an XC-70 on winter tyres. The only time I'd want something else would be for wading, in which case I'd be wondering why I'm wilingly entering flood water, let alone putting myself through the hours of maintenance that would come later. I'm slightly at odds with some of the advice here in that I do like my (subtle) underbody protection, but even I draw the line at belly plates that hide more pressing issues than they might protect against. The only thing I would add is that a fuel tank guard on an pre-TD5 90 would be fairly essential...ask me how I know.