ThreePointFive

They're never near me or I'd want to see how a standard bumper looks on mine, I refuse to pay the prices for new ones.

I reckon Stephen could weld a LR hub into this.

When I did the whole 4x4 response thing some years ago, I quickly realised the best vehicle for it would be an XC-70 on winter tyres. The only time I'd want something else would be for wading, in which case I'd be wondering why I'm wilingly entering flood water, let alone putting myself through the hours of maintenance that would come later. I'm slightly at odds with some of the advice here in that I do like my (subtle) underbody protection, but even I draw the line at belly plates that hide more pressing issues than they might protect against. The only thing I would add is that a fuel tank guard on an pre-TD5 90 would be fairly essential...ask me how I know.

If it wasn't for the tyres being the wrong way around, this would be perfection.

Good. One of the major things I liked about them was they charged reasonable P&P for small items. You can't order from most sites now without either incurring £10 postage regardless of the part cost, or over £60 to get free shipping. I've wanted to buy some washers for the anti roll bar for the last month but I refuse to pay £10 shipping on a 50p part.

I was going to edit my post to be clearer, but for everything apart from tractors, it isn't really what people would consider to be two trailers, more a dead vehicle towing a trailer. Either way, the thing shown in the video wouldn't conform!

This went for £18,000... shows what we know about taste and decency.

I wonder if the comment in the original video about it being illegal because it had two engines was mispoken - it would be illegal because it's two trailers. You can't tow a trailer off a trailer in the UK. As Blue Peter was live, he might just have got the line wrong and moved on.

The first priority has to be to work out why it's gone so crispy if the relay is ok. Clearly all is not well in the solenoid at the very least. I would keep the battery disconnected (as you have been) until the cause is established even if everything now seems fine.

Once you see the price of a car that has all the problems of your current one but at an earlier stage of decay, you might go full circle to a rebuild of your 1988. Then you'll spend more than the cost of a newer car on doing that and wonder if it was worth it. I don't have a bug list, I've tried to use the time to rectify everything now as I know I'll lose motivation once I start using it.

Dynax products by Bilt Hamber are very effective while being reasonably priced for underbody areas. ACF50 comes highly recommended for a lot of the visible areas (cappings, water traps, etc).

Footman James is worth a call, the people I dealt with knew their stuff and my (extensive) list of mods was no problem. Regarding the van status, if it came out of the factory as a Hard Top then it'll be a van for insurance. If it was a station wagon it would likely be classed as an estate car for reasons I can't quite work out. Or at least mine was.

Same, I would never have known this was a genuine colour. The 'bubbling in places' could be important, the bubbling you see is usually just the tip of the iceberg but it's the location that matters most. That's very low mileage for the age, I wouldn't say low mileage is a substitute for proper maintenance but you would probably be able to tell if it's been neglected on inspection.

Quite literally, judging by the fraying/algae stains on it: Still, I do like the seats.

Wot he said, they've been tested in terms of operation on a bench. I know they are all meant to click when they prime just before start up, I can just remove all the plugs except one and work around the engine to make sure they're clicking. I've done it before but it's been apart and the wiring disturbed many times since then. Many, many times.

Found something by accident that's worth a look. It isn't anywhere near the same quality as the car above as it's probably quite well done if you like that kind of thing. However, we all love to see the cars with a tow rope permanently attached to the bumper for the "I need to tell people I am a serious off roader" look... I bring you the ultimate conclusion of that thought process - rope you cannot remove. https://www.my-next-car.co.uk/used-land-rover-defender-sandy-bedfordshire-3839862 Like I say, other than that not too bad but if their build cost £70k 4 years ago, they got fleeced. Also minus points for no underbody protection of any sort.

I had the same - doors with holes but nothing in the channels (plastic and felt/metal ones). The fit is very tight so I'm hoping they will work as a press fit, operating the windows doesn't make anything move around but I think it's a job to come back to. I will definitely be drilling the fittings, not the doors.

That almost doesn't make sense, how can there be so much space behind the rear seats? Clever packaging.

Can't be yours, you'd use a ruler.

What is going on with the structure around the windscreen surround? Are they trying to make it look like a Snatch? It looks like it's balsa wood covered in felt. I can't believe someone looked at the Grenadier front end and actually wanted to emulate the shape on their own car. Lollypop stick art used to be a craze... The amount of work that would have gone into this is the most depressing part. The more you look the better/worse it gets. This reminds me of that Saudi wagon that had plastic bumpers on it.

Ah yes, it's that embuggerance I remember when doing some adjustments last time. Well I've done it, a pair of sills on order. A bit OTT just for some door seals but my current ones aren't galvanised so that's an immediate improvement and I know the seals are an improvement over the sill type. I'm sure it's worth it...

I can live with them not being exactly flush but the door won't close as-is! I think I'm sold on the new sills, just need to find a supplier of galvanized ones. I can't remember how big of a job it is to remove/replace the sills with everything else in place.

I was not aware there were different versions, that answers that. Thanks for the enlightenment. Now to work out if I can be bothered to swap with new ones.

I came back to this issue as I'm trying to keep momentum with the jobs I can actually finish. I did try the original sill seals but they had cuts along them which I wasn't happy with. I bought some aftermarket ones and they are absolutely useless, they don't fit the same holes and the rubber tears when rivetted. I bought some genuine door bottom seals to see if they were any better than the previous ones and the door still refuses to close properly. I think I'm on to something with the sill location being off. Mine looks like this, does anyone have a comparison photo of theirs? I think my sills are positioned too outboard, so there's not enough gap for the door to fit into.

I spend a fair amount of time watching the market - not sure why as I have no intention to buy - and I think this nails it. In general, cars have to be very special in some way to acheive the stupid prices. In general, most TDCis are in the mid/late 20s with 110 CSWs specifically getting about £32-35 or thereabouts. That said, I saw a 90 achieve 40 a few weeks ago which completely blew my understanding out of the water. A key thing to remember is that money isn't worth as much as it was 10-20 years ago, inflation is a real thing. Once you account for that, and the general increase in car prices, it starts to make some sense. For me, I spent so much on my car there's no way it's worth anywhere near to sell on. I should have returned it to completely standard for a V8 CSW 90 and sold it for £25k, but once I blew the spider gears out ofthe diff pan, it was never going to be a matching-numbers car. My plan is just to drive it until it's taxed off the road.