ThreePointFive

Gutter Sealent is black gold. I used bathroom stuff on my sunroof and within a few days it was leaking. I got fed up with it so took the glass out, cleaned out the gutters, filled it with gutter sealant and put the glass back on then filled the second gutter running around the outside of the sunroof until it was level with the top of the glass. It hasn't leaked since. Although I can't open the sunroof any more, but a Defender has enough places for air to get in.

I settled on the bulkdead behind the seats as it was the easiest, most convenient way of fitting it and it's accessible from both sides rather than easy from one and hard to reach from another. I tried the footwell idea but I thought it would annoy the passenger. On the gearbox tunnel was a good place but I couldn't easily bolt it through the other side.

Thanks, I'll have a look at placing it in those places.

I am afraid I have yet another question. Where do you guys keep your fire extinguishers? Mine arrived yesturday and trying to find a place which is accessible and secure to fix the mount to is proving difficult. The rear of the centre bulkhead is the only place I could store it vertically, cutting into my passenger leg space, or between the front seats on the bulkhead, fixed horizontally. That is a neat way of doing it but the mount seems designed for it to be stored vertically. Other than those places, roof racking it or in the cubby box, I don't think that's accessible enough though.

I would like to get a dog guard as I can see the obvious advantages in being seperated from the load space and of being able to fix items to it, such as the fire ext., however the previous owners of my 90 modified (read: cut away) the driver's side of the bulkhead so fitting a dog guard will be difficult to say the least. Time to make friends with a welder I think!

The payment will hopefully be on its way tomorow morning. I do have one more question regarding the regs: Does this mean a standard land rover centre bulkhead or something the full height of the cabin such as a dog guard? I am pretty much up to spec or buying anything I'm not missing so should be able to comply on the day.

Thanks! Any idea how much they cost? I am hoping they'll be the best quality I can get within reason.

I went to Land Rover today and asked them about Jate rings, the parts bloke couldn't find anything. Is that number for LR genuine ones? Maybe with a part number we will have more luck.

I am looking for some rear recovery points, which jate rings are the one to go for? The paddocks ones are £17 but cheapest isn't usually best, so is the extra £15 for the first four offroad ones worth it? Also, if a rope has to bend around a steering guard to get to a jate ring on the front, that would be dangerous, wouldn't it? I assume the only safe thing is an uninterupted path from the recovery point to the other vehicle.

There is talk of the 110 V8s being rare, but is a 1988 V8 90 also worth keeping original? Not to stray (or hijack) the topic too much, but my own 90 is at the point where it could be tidied up nicely into an original spec vehicle, or made into a toy. I don't want to do anything too stupid with something potentially rare, and as anyone who has been on forums I post on may know, this issue has made me take a step back with the direction I want to take the vehicle on numerous occasions. I'm not worried about getting more money, but am worried about cutting up something of a rarity. and have never got a definitive answer on how much I should be worried. I would love to keep the engine, but with an auto box, respray charcoal grey and other mods, so you see why this is a dilema.

What are considered appropriate gloves? I am guessing they're for winching purposes but I've never had any experience of that so don't know what I should be looking for. Also what fire extinguisher type would be appropriate? The Powder type? Sorry for all the questions. I was having some difficulty in seeing how the vehicle would meet the requirements for the event but I am now pretty sure I am a certainty now. I just need to get the application form sent now.

I am very much interested in this, I will have to get some rear JATE rings but otherwise I'm set. I don't see any mention of mandatory MTs? I bought a set of MTs today just so I could start doing exactly this... but guess what, they're Insa Turbo Special Tracks. If you accept the ATs I'll be on the Lassas, which may be pants if it gets too tricky.

I removed the covers to the wiring over the rear lights and set some speakers into wooden panels either side of the door. This way they're not pointing at the head of the two passengers in the rear next to the door while the two next to them can't hear it as their heads are in the way, and they are perfectly audible in the front seats too. They are no more vulnerable to water than the rest of the lights in that position. It's where the latest CSWs have them.

I too am having some welding done on a very small patch just next to the rear cross member on the bottom face of the chassis rail. Is there any way of avoiding taking the wiring out? I am having to drive the vehicle to and from the place it's getting welded at and I don't think they'll appreciate me spending hours before and after disconnecting and reconnecting everything up before I can drive it away.

I'm a member of the East Devon Off Road Club, you won't get to use your road legal land rover much there, the only things we use are trialers. Went to visit the Devon and Cornwall Land Rover club on their last (or 2nd from last) meeting, looked great and I would have loved to have joined but my Landy stays in Somerset now I've bought an every day car, so it's too far to go down to cornwall to use it.

I would be willing to help if I can, I have some limited experience marshalling two or three trials for East Devon ORC but I would rather be considered a complete novice so you don't waste a slot which could be taken by someone more experienced should they be available.

I meant on a vehicle with axle lockers on both, but you answered that question anyway. Cheers

I could be completely misunderstanding this but curiosity has got the better of me as I have no experience with either TC or locking diffs off road. Would TC ever try to act on an axle with a locked diff? If both wheels are turning the same speed (as they would if I understand how a locking diff works) then surely it can't detect either wheel loosing traction as they're both spinning the same speed whether they have traction or not?

I had a look in an autofactors for spreader plates and what they had were steel plates about 10cm wide and 1cm thick, these will only just be wider than my existing plates, would this be a reasonable option or should I be looking for a plate that goes the length of the distance between the chassis legs? I've now fitted the recovery points and it doesn't look too bad. Does anyone know if Devon4x4 has a showroom at their site or if the business is purely internet orders? I could do with some of their shackles and want to save time and postage so could just pop over there. Also they don't seem to do any non-snatch strops, I have heard a lot about snatch/KE ropes and don't want to be messing with something like that.

Unfortunately you're right, the site is too boggy for ATs. Damn, and I was really looking forward to getting offroad while back from Uni, that's out the window now.

That looks like a very neat solution, but I am unable to fabricate anything myself. I am going to try to get some jate rings like those on the first four website which say they're wide enough to go around most steering guards. I can't modify the edges of the guard as the mounts are directly over the bit I would be cutting, and it'd have no strength left. I am also going to fit the recovery points inbetween the chassis rails on the bumper, with their backing plates until I can find a spreader plate to go across them. I think they should be ok, I'll just make sure no one snatch recovers me (I may need the car this weekend for offroading and don't have time to locate a spreader before then). Also I could use a strop on both points and halve the stress on each of them. Long term it will be a guard with some points in it and jate rings to compliment it.

As you can see the guard sits right in front of where the jate rings would attach. Would they still be useable like this? I thought about bolting the eyes through the guard just under the jacking points, but I think it's too low and would stick out too far to the front, as well as meaning I would have to get a grinder to get rid of the chequer before bolting it on, and find longer bolts as the guard is about 4mm thick I think.

Not to go too far off the topic, they look better with lights on, otherwise they can look a bit like a gaping mouth or something, the other picture was taken before I fitted them: I have decided the best way for me to proceed with the recovery points I have is to locate them inside the nudge bar legs with a spreader plate inside the bumper and the additional plates the recovery points used behind the bumper originally. This should have the strength needed. In the future and when funds allow I will probably look for a steering guard with towing eyes. Further pictures of my steering guard will follow when I can upload them.

I did install it myself, but after a few snapped bumper bolts which took a fair time to get replacements of, (and a fiasco with the courier). If you are going to do it, either WD40 the bolts up everyday for two years in advance or have at least two spare bolts! I bought it from Duckworth parts via ebay, you should hurry as they may not have many more due to the new regulations on selling them. The brackets for fitting lights are basically suited to the Safari 5000s, which I don't have but definitely would like and I had to secure my lights with bolts attached to the grille to stop them from drooping and facing the floor. It is probably do-able with most lights but you do need to make sure their bolts for securing aren't too long and that their mounts are big enough around the central hole in the nudgebar mount to support the light properly. Hope this is clear enough...

From that picture I have a suspicion that they would be obstructed completely by the bottom of my guard. I'll take a photo tomorrow and if you could take a look I'd be grateful. It would be good if I can go down the JATE route as they seem to be a good option. Ted, it is for cooling the V8 which tends to get hot when off roading. It, like most of the stuff on my car, was added by a previous owner.