ThreePointFive

What are considered appropriate gloves? I am guessing they're for winching purposes but I've never had any experience of that so don't know what I should be looking for. Also what fire extinguisher type would be appropriate? The Powder type? Sorry for all the questions. I was having some difficulty in seeing how the vehicle would meet the requirements for the event but I am now pretty sure I am a certainty now. I just need to get the application form sent now.

I am very much interested in this, I will have to get some rear JATE rings but otherwise I'm set. I don't see any mention of mandatory MTs? I bought a set of MTs today just so I could start doing exactly this... but guess what, they're Insa Turbo Special Tracks. If you accept the ATs I'll be on the Lassas, which may be pants if it gets too tricky.

I removed the covers to the wiring over the rear lights and set some speakers into wooden panels either side of the door. This way they're not pointing at the head of the two passengers in the rear next to the door while the two next to them can't hear it as their heads are in the way, and they are perfectly audible in the front seats too. They are no more vulnerable to water than the rest of the lights in that position. It's where the latest CSWs have them.

I too am having some welding done on a very small patch just next to the rear cross member on the bottom face of the chassis rail. Is there any way of avoiding taking the wiring out? I am having to drive the vehicle to and from the place it's getting welded at and I don't think they'll appreciate me spending hours before and after disconnecting and reconnecting everything up before I can drive it away.

I'm a member of the East Devon Off Road Club, you won't get to use your road legal land rover much there, the only things we use are trialers. Went to visit the Devon and Cornwall Land Rover club on their last (or 2nd from last) meeting, looked great and I would have loved to have joined but my Landy stays in Somerset now I've bought an every day car, so it's too far to go down to cornwall to use it.

I would be willing to help if I can, I have some limited experience marshalling two or three trials for East Devon ORC but I would rather be considered a complete novice so you don't waste a slot which could be taken by someone more experienced should they be available.

I meant on a vehicle with axle lockers on both, but you answered that question anyway. Cheers

I could be completely misunderstanding this but curiosity has got the better of me as I have no experience with either TC or locking diffs off road. Would TC ever try to act on an axle with a locked diff? If both wheels are turning the same speed (as they would if I understand how a locking diff works) then surely it can't detect either wheel loosing traction as they're both spinning the same speed whether they have traction or not?

I had a look in an autofactors for spreader plates and what they had were steel plates about 10cm wide and 1cm thick, these will only just be wider than my existing plates, would this be a reasonable option or should I be looking for a plate that goes the length of the distance between the chassis legs? I've now fitted the recovery points and it doesn't look too bad. Does anyone know if Devon4x4 has a showroom at their site or if the business is purely internet orders? I could do with some of their shackles and want to save time and postage so could just pop over there. Also they don't seem to do any non-snatch strops, I have heard a lot about snatch/KE ropes and don't want to be messing with something like that.

Unfortunately you're right, the site is too boggy for ATs. Damn, and I was really looking forward to getting offroad while back from Uni, that's out the window now.

That looks like a very neat solution, but I am unable to fabricate anything myself. I am going to try to get some jate rings like those on the first four website which say they're wide enough to go around most steering guards. I can't modify the edges of the guard as the mounts are directly over the bit I would be cutting, and it'd have no strength left. I am also going to fit the recovery points inbetween the chassis rails on the bumper, with their backing plates until I can find a spreader plate to go across them. I think they should be ok, I'll just make sure no one snatch recovers me (I may need the car this weekend for offroading and don't have time to locate a spreader before then). Also I could use a strop on both points and halve the stress on each of them. Long term it will be a guard with some points in it and jate rings to compliment it.

As you can see the guard sits right in front of where the jate rings would attach. Would they still be useable like this? I thought about bolting the eyes through the guard just under the jacking points, but I think it's too low and would stick out too far to the front, as well as meaning I would have to get a grinder to get rid of the chequer before bolting it on, and find longer bolts as the guard is about 4mm thick I think.

Not to go too far off the topic, they look better with lights on, otherwise they can look a bit like a gaping mouth or something, the other picture was taken before I fitted them: I have decided the best way for me to proceed with the recovery points I have is to locate them inside the nudge bar legs with a spreader plate inside the bumper and the additional plates the recovery points used behind the bumper originally. This should have the strength needed. In the future and when funds allow I will probably look for a steering guard with towing eyes. Further pictures of my steering guard will follow when I can upload them.

I did install it myself, but after a few snapped bumper bolts which took a fair time to get replacements of, (and a fiasco with the courier). If you are going to do it, either WD40 the bolts up everyday for two years in advance or have at least two spare bolts! I bought it from Duckworth parts via ebay, you should hurry as they may not have many more due to the new regulations on selling them. The brackets for fitting lights are basically suited to the Safari 5000s, which I don't have but definitely would like and I had to secure my lights with bolts attached to the grille to stop them from drooping and facing the floor. It is probably do-able with most lights but you do need to make sure their bolts for securing aren't too long and that their mounts are big enough around the central hole in the nudgebar mount to support the light properly. Hope this is clear enough...

From that picture I have a suspicion that they would be obstructed completely by the bottom of my guard. I'll take a photo tomorrow and if you could take a look I'd be grateful. It would be good if I can go down the JATE route as they seem to be a good option. Ted, it is for cooling the V8 which tends to get hot when off roading. It, like most of the stuff on my car, was added by a previous owner.

I definitely won't be going back to the old A bar as I don't like massive amounts of stainless steel or chrome on Land Rovers, just looks a bit wrong in my opinion, and while not to everyone's' taste, I think the new one looks much, much better. I can get pics of the guard, but I will add that I didn't make it and the design is far from ideal as it bolts up through the jacking points so I need to spanner them out before I can jack the vehicle. Western, forgive me but I only just learned what and where a jate ring is and goes. Surely with a steering guard in place, the rope has to go around the side of the guard and would rub on the edge, which can't be good for the rope? I expect I am getting mixed up here though.

Is the site still ok for ATs? If so, I may just be able to make it down there. I would love to get some off roading in this holiday.

The recovery eyes have plates for the other side of the bumper already, but I think the spreader plate between both chassis is a good idea as well. I've looked at Jate rings but due to the home-made steering guard, I don't think it will be possible to use them as it is right in the way. I could look at steering guards with recovery eyes in them but this is added money I don't have.

I am trying to find a good place to fit my recovery points as they had to be moved from their position in front of the chassis rails on the bumper when I fitted the nudge bar. I now need to get them mounted somewhere, so is there any other place on the bumper that they can safely go? I understand that the strongest place would be in line with the chassis rails, so would putting them either side of the outside edge of the bull bar mounts be too flimsy and bend the bumper forwards if it was under load? I also thought about putting them inside the bull bar mounts where the number plate currently is, so it shouldn't be so easily bent, but again, if it's not safe I won't do it. Someone with some experience of how to do these things properly care to share some advice with a complete novice? To show where the points were and now where the bull bar is mounted:

I think main dealerships are doing free vehicle health checks on all vehicles, you should ask at your local one and see if they do it, they will be very thorough (as I found out last week and now need to spend a little bit of money). If an independant is your prefered choice, they should really check out any problems for free if you've only bought it from them 6 days ago. I'm from somerset but probably know less than you on the mechanical side, but if you know of any good off roading sites around...

I decided the replacement pipe depended on not increasing my premium, which I've had a talk to Adrain Flux about, and they want £30 extra if I fit it. Western, did you tell your insurers and did they want more? Mine wanted to know what my current BHP is and what it would increase to with the pipe - I told them about +3-4 BHP but that figure only came from what I've heard of sports exhausts, I have no idea of the actual figure for replacing just the silencer. I don't even know the exact standard BHP figure, LRO's buying guide says 115, does anyone know if that's right? I don't think the increase can be much, but where would I find that out? All this for a bit of extra noise.

I'm looking for Mud Terrains, I've heard good things of the STT, but where can you find them? Their website doesn't have prices. Will Colway MTs give the same traction as their BFG counterparts? I know they're a remould and won't do the same mileage, but does this effect any other aspect of their performance? I've also heard MTs can make braking/wet conditions on road a bit dodgy. I'd be buying them as a spare set for offroading, but would have to travel to the sites on them, by road. Sorry to thread hi-jack but didn't seem worth a new topic.

On the phone the bloke basically said it would be easier for me to talk to someone they supply, which was paddocks. I think if I dropped in as well as phoned and emailed they may think I can't let it go.

This is probably a stupid question but would chipping it not void the warranty?

Ok, and the list of equipment on the site a few pages back is mandatory? Having never been winched out of anywhere, is a towball an adequate recovery point? If not, I'll have to add one to the mud terrains.