ThreePointFive

I missed this post! Black is normal? Well then, my car is very rarely at that temp. The pump pulley is rotating with the belt just fine, no noises since I tightened it up. Off road where I'm using low box the average temp is the end of the white, I assumed this was due to the revs being that much higher for little ground speed, and thus less air through the radiator. I think tomorow is the perfect time to see where the temperature stays, and identify if I do indeed have a problem. My only other choice is as luke and I have been discussing, cutting the sealant with a stanley and dismantling the whole lot and trying again. Thing is, as Luke says, the temperature shouldn't have changed if I have replaced the pump, only gone down.... Thanks for your help.

I must admit a lot more sealant than I wanted to use was put on, as it was the stupidest design of applicator I've ever seen. I tried smearing it around to even it out but I'm not sure how effective that would have been. It was at least 6 hours before the system was refilled, the sealant had definetly set before it was. I took the bottom hose off the radiator to bleed it so I am pretty sure it was fully bled.

Hi all, I replaced the water pump on my 3.5L V8 after it had too much play in it (more on that in a minute). Since replacing the pump the engine heats up a lot quicker and at normal road speeds (30-50) the temp gauge is staying at a steady 3/4 to hot. It used to be almost immovable at dead vertical at these speeds. I tested how hot it would get at lower, higher rev speeds. So I picked a 2 mile long hill which is pretty much 2nd gear all the way. The needle was at the end of the white and almost in the black bit between white and red. Off road, before the change of pump it would be at this kind of temperature and even sometimes into the black (I don't think it ever reached more than just below red). If it is this readily hot, I can't see how it will fair well off road. Is this normal, or should I be checking the water pump? I have used a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water whereas before it was more like 1/4th antifreeze. Would this have any effect? I think that might be clutching at straws. Fitting the water pump, I had two bolts snap while tightening them up again. I had used loctite gasket replacement stuff as it looked like good stuff as well as the gasket that came with the pump. The problem is, it's glued the pump on pretty much, so I couldn't remove it to extract the snapped bolts. I am wondering if I hadn't used too much loctite and if it is hindering the pump from turning as it could have squeezed itself in to the inside of the housing when the pump was put on. At the moment I am running it with all but these two 11mm bolts in, it isn't leaking at all but I feel it's a bodge. I am not sure how to get the pump off without a hammer, and judging by how easily marked the ali on the old one was, it will mean a new pump. So, the question is, should I be worried, or is this normal? I know it could be the radiator, but it looks fine on both sides, bar a small patch of corrosion on the engine bay side. How hot would a healthy V8 be running at on the road and off it? I am going off roading tomorow so I suppose that will be the test to see if it is going to get any hotter, I can't hthink of any other way to do it. I will have to take it offroad at some point anyway... I know this whole thing is bloody stupid of me, but I really am in need of finding out if there is a problem or not.

You won't be the only one without a winch...

Thanks for the reply. I don't think they will be doing anything as 'extreme' offroad as to require modifying the exhaust etc, it will be 99% road/tow car. I had seen the FL club, I'll have to give it a closer look though, cheers.

Hi all, My parents have bought an 05 plate Freelander TD4 5Dr. It's brilliant, and I haven't even been inside it yet. I am looking for seat covers as it has a light coloured interior and we don't want it getting trashed. I've done a google search and come up with pretty much the same figure - around £60 per row. Is this the going rate? Also, is there any modification/addition that is suggested to make ownership that bit more convenient or easier? I'm not talking rock sliders/snorkel or anything along those lines, this is very much a standard Freelander, but I'm hoping there's a small item I can buy as a 'present' for my parents to help them enjoy their new car. It's meant for towing their caravan with a tad offroading every now and then, nothing heavy at all. Any sites/clubs they should be aware of? Thanks.

ProjectBlue, I didn't see any LR4x4 stickers or anyone say anything about LR4x4, were you there? Excellent day out, gentle off roading. The LRE course was entertaining enough but not that difficult. My thanks to all those who arranged it and made me and my mate feel welcome.

Sounds/looks like an amazing day. Wish I'd been able to come and watch but had other commitments.

I pushed the connectors on the o/s about and that side came on, but the n/s refused. The fuses looked fine so I assumed it was wiring, but access is ridiculous on that side of the car. Eventually I just switched the right and left side fuses over and it worked. Either they were just loose (really didn't look it) or I don't know why that would work.... I'm pretty sure they were both working before I did the conversion so I don't see how that would have made anything in the fusebox loose... Either way I should just be happy they're both working now I suppose.

Cheers for the replies. I think I may have pulled a connection out, probably the earth, in pulling away the light surrounds so I'll start there first. I am pretty sure both lights were working before the light conversion, though I hadn't used the vehicle for nearly 2 weeks. I'll be taking a look in the morning.

I've just fitted a pair of Wipac Halogen headlights, tried them after putting it all back together and found the sidelights are not working, dip and main beam both fine and working at the correct position on the switch. I assume they run off the same fuse as the headlights? It is possible that on the driver's side the sidelight wiring was pulled so may have got a loose connection, but it's not that likely for the n/s and they are both out. Would a loose connection on one side take out both? I know it's illegal to drive without sidelights, so I am rather pressed to get this sorted. The rear lights do function on the sidelight setting. This follows a day of taking the exhaust manifold off and on 3 times, due to trying to solve the ticking noise and a side repeater not working and the screw being well and truly rusted/rounded out, so this made my day really.

I will be attending, if uni work doesn't get in the way, which hopefully it won't. Really enjoyed last time, can't wait for the next one.

I am going (already confirmed by email to wessex4x4 contact). The only thing that will stop me is if I don't get this exhaust manifold sorted in time... Really looking forward to it.

I'd like to attend if possible. I am on the hunt for MTs as we speak and I should have them by then, but if I can't get them fitted to my rims in time or for any other reason I can't get my act together, would I be allowed to use the Special Tracks? If not, and I don't have the new tyres, can I marhsall or something? When do you want payment by? As a total offtopic but not worth a new post, where is a good place to get tyres fitted/balanced? I paid Land Rover for it last time and it wasn't cheap.

Devon4x4 do them at something like £3 for a 4.75T shackle, that's where I got my first two. Need to buy more though as they're never enough.... £1.88 for a 3.25T.

I have noticed that all the women LR drivers around here will never wave. There are also very modded, brand new defenders that just look at you gormlessly at traffic lights etc. I honestly think there's a lot of ageism and if you don't "look the sort" people don't wave. Probably assuming anyone under 25 is a boy racer. I have basically given up now, it was fun to begin with but too much snobbery from the type of people who will complain about the increasing lack of waves they get.

Is an XS top spec? Maybe it's for an accessory (parking sensors don't come on Defenders, do they?) that isn't wired in or made 'live'. Maybe I should just be quiet.

I think it's measured in NM not tonnes.. I can't remember how it's worked out, but a 10mmx60mm (I think) 10.9 HT bolt can take 69 tonnes... don't quote me on that! I only learned that after a quite embarrising conversation about bolts with a guy who knew his onions at a bolt shop. How do you jack up both wheels on an axle at once? I have a pair of 2 tonne axle stands and on the box it says don't have the stand at one end and the jack on the other end, so how do you lift both ends simultaneously and then put a pair of stands under them? My guess is you can't, with one jack? Since I heard a nasty cracking noise when I used the rear jacking points I'm doing all my jacking on the axle, as I only do it to change wheels over anyway... that was worrying, and while some of it has had welding attention I still don't trust it enough to be working around it while it's jacked up using the cross member holes.

Now it's obvious why they didn't used to.... How do these differ from a "normal" shock then?

It turns out a new manifold is quite expensive. £300 from LR for just the near side one. My plan is to replace the gaskets and see if that cures the problem. I'll be able to see if the manifold is infact rusted through too, so I can tell if the ticking is this or the tappets, or something else. Has anyone got any advice to someone not very experienced in anything mechanical who wants to do the job themselves? I am trying to learn. I know there are two bolts on each part of the manifold, I've put WD40 on them so they hopefully won't be seazed. Is there anything else I can do to prepare to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets? Does the whole lot have to come off, or is undoing them at the engine going to give me enough play to move them away from it? Is there anything I should be putting on the gaskets/threads etc for when it goes back on? Is there anything I should be careful of doing? I know it's like trying to explain it to a 5 year old but please have patience.

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated. I'll use the Magnatec 15W40 this time around and then try this Valvoline stuff for the next change.

Where can you buy the Valvoline stuff? Had a quick look on google and basically the result is the valvoline site with no prices and forums telling people to buy it, but nowhere that sells it!

I had a look in 3 seperate auto places, none had what I would regard as a main brand of 20W50 (Castrol, Mobil, etc)... Prices ranged from £9.50 for 4.5L to £15 for 5L, but that was halford's own brand... The three types I found where all "formulated for older higher milage vehicles". Should the cheapness and lack of a recognisable brand, besides Halfords own brand (who seem to be hit and miss on quality of other items) be ringing alarm bells, or should I just get the best deal of the lot?

I have a rattle around that area, caused by the bar connected to the drop arm (don't know the term for it) rattling against the metal plate/guard bolted to the rear of the front diff. It sounded like it was coming from the gearbox area and was only evident under changing gear and large bumps. As you've just been offroading I'd look there, mine occured after the bar was slightly bent.

I'm going to replace the front pipes. I've got new gaskets ordered, is there anything I can be doing to make the job easier when I come to do it? The bolts holding the exhaust on look rusty, so I think lubricating them now will help, is there anything else that usually goes wrong or makes the job longer?