upnover4x4

Just had a message from Paul, he is still making them, & they are available thru Gigglepin. At what cost I will find out today. Adrian

Whos offered you the disco box Tris? Do you want me to have look tomorrow before you get back. Might save you a trip back to mailorder4x4 if you know its the box Ade

One of the best bit of kit in my landy!! Give brilliant support off road but can be a pain to get in/out of. Originally had 2x cobra imolas but have changed my seat to a QT challenger. Imolas can be a bit tight. Qt seat is superb as its a grp/kevlar shell seat. Easy to clean & dry.Bit more room also. Still waitng for the seat cushion to arrive. Both seats quite easy to fit. Keep an eye out on ebay as some bucket go for peanuts, & could be close to where you live. Adrian

Ive found this supplier but aint got them for another 4wks good price tho. http://www.exactfabrication.co.uk/show_product.php?id_prd=13 Adrian

Does any body know where I can get weld on diff pans or the pipe caps so that I can convert one myself. Had a talk with a couple of diff pan suppliers & they want around 80-90quid. Cant imagine the pipe cap will be ay thing close to this but cant find any suppliers. Adrian

Will, Thanks for the advice on chatting to ashcroft about soting a deal out.They said they would do quite a good deal on 2 arbs built diffs with pegging & 4.1s. Waits about 2-3weeks but will give me time to sort out the remedial work. Having lost all my oil I suppose the will mean the wheel bearings will need replacing?! Drove about 20miles home. No trailer unfortunately. On inspection plant wheels blown to bits & few teeth missing off the C&P. Does any body know where I can get the heavy duty weld on diff pans at a reasonable price? Been quoted between 80-90quid. If I could get the pipe caps I would rather make them up myself. Adrian

Yeah correct! I had to sit down after he told me. I checked ashcroft & they want £275+vat for 4.75s. With vat thats £323 each. 4.1s are quite a bit cheaper. You can justify the cost of pegging going for these as they are £80 quid +vat cheaper. With regards diff pegging, Im running a 200tdi which is getting the pump adjustments carried out soon, not exactly a 300bhp motor, not likely to ever come close to it so is it worth pegging. Adrian

The axles were purchased from a friend of white90's that are td5 axles. Age & mileage unknown. They were in excellent condition with negligible backlash. They have only been on the truck about a month prior to the explosion & the fedimas were only fitted last week. My thought as to why the diff exploded...Well I had jacked up the vehicle to fit & clearance the new tyres. Due to having dislocating suspension I had fitted the axle limiting strap to lift the truck. What I had forgot to do was remove the strap for yesterdays challenge! Now assuming that the suspension was doing what it was supposed to be doing in relation to the ground I tried to straddle a obsticle. Not quite having the ground contact I thought I had I blipped the throttle to climb the bank & the tyre gripped a raised root! I cant help but think would the damage have happened had I removed the strap. Yes the tyres a new to me but I not a particlary aggressive driver. Usually slow & consistant. With reference the 3.54 r&p, I was chatting to Crown diffs today & he claimed that the 3.54s available on the market are basically rear directional r&ps which can & are fitted to front axles. This he said is what landrover do from the factory and thus due to the faces being machined to be directional make up for a weaker front axle. Is this the case?. What he did say was that the lower ratios that he sells are directional & come as matched pairs ie front & rear & can only be fitted in their respective postion. I dont have any issue with refitting 3.54s. These were probably going to be my first choice as I really did want to fit underdrive, I just thought that I might be able to achieve a lower ratio without the cost of underdrive.The cost of fitting 3.54s is significantly cheaper but I dont want to be in the same position again shelling out on what could be a lesser quality r&p. The cost of a built locker with 3.54s is £658inc as opposed to £928inc for a 4.75r&p. 2xr&ps at £300 quid is a big chunk toward an underdrive. As you said I dont want to make a costly mistake twice I just want to get it right first time...or as near as possible Thanks Adrian

How do you find it on the road? Do you find you need to change down for the hills more often or is it tolorable Ade

I was looking for your opinions on what route to take on choice of ring & pinion (R&P). I blew my 3.54 R&P up this weekend taking my diff pan with it. Im running fedimas which measure 36". The gearing has been thrown running these. Now Im going to be fitting arbs F&R when rectifying the damage but at a predicament about my choice in R&P. I was thinking of fitting an underdrive at a later date but Im undecided about whether to stick with the 3.54 R&P & get the underdrive or to go for a 4.75 R&P & not bother getting the underdrive. I do realise that other gearing ratios are avalable but the are not much cheaper than the 4.75.The cost of the 4,75 R&Ps are about £280 & I'm finding this quite difficult to justify, but bearing in mind that an underdrive costs around £2000. The vehicles primarily used for challenge events & driving days & doesnt really get used on the road much. If I go with the 4.75R&P, I understand it option isnt an underdrive or have the same capabilities as but will the newer reduced gearing be suffice to justify the outlay of an underdrive. Thanks Adrian

How far did you move the wheel centre in from original position, & did this eliminate the knocking to radius arm or just reduce it. Thanks Adrian

Had about 1cm!!! in mid cornwall. Nearly all gone now Nice to see none the less. But in April?

I bought 4 plastic funnels from tesco for a quid, using the largest, cut the end off it & inserted/force a peice of garden hose pipe into it. Leave pipe long enough so you can fill from decent position.Secure fit is best. Dont know if your seat box cover can be removed easily but done mine with the cover off. Took about 45mins with this bore size. Did manage to spill a cup full but that was due to filling the tbox at the same time & not paying enough attention Ade

Golddigger4x4 are doing a version which looks pretty good. Devon4x4 also have a version also. Ade

I think if I lived closer,I would offer my services to assist in the repair of the damage to show that we arnt all mindless off road users. Damn shame the reflection it gives offroad users. Brings to mind that incident with 4x4 chasing & killing the sheep a while back.

I love mine, wouldnt be without it. Will say not the safest jack Ive ever used but very versitile. Used & set up correctly can get you out of most situations. Dont have my winch fitted at the moment & would still be stuck in several holes without it. Have you thought about one of those exhuast filled jacks. Dont know if their anygood or how compact they are but the idea seems a good one

Been into Qt today as Steve90 said £180 +vat which includes the seat subframe & cushion which is pvc. They do 2 designs, comp safri which is slightly laid back & a bit longer, and the challenge seat which is very upright position & quite short in length. Ideal for the taller person. You can buy the seats without the subframe for £150+. The meet & excede MSA rules apparently. Very well made indeed. I did manage to get some pics of both which Ill try a post later. Adrian

Belt hasnt jumped a tooth??!!!!

Have you checked fuel supply? If there is debris in tank could be getting drawn into fuel lines when engine pulling/demanding more fuel causing fuel starvation.Just read your post again & realised that youve dealt with lines etc. Also is the turbo continually on boost or is the waste gate chattering? Is it coming on boost? Can you feel any difference in the charge air pipes after the turbo. You will notice them ballooning when the turbo comes on boost. Cant be many other things as youve covered most. With regards the injectors, slightly loosen off the unions one by one on the injectors with the engine running to expell any poss air in system. You should notice a change in engine tone. Its not a surefire method of find a dicky injector but eng noise should alter comparatively for each injecter. If not start with that particular injector. I noticed you said that youve checked the stop solenoid, Its poss that the solenoid isnt opening port enough again causing fuel starvation at higher revs. Its not a definitive guide but I hope it helps. Good luck Ade

Worth checking the steering box drop arm. If this is loose will cause steering to wander quite dramaticly. My arm was loose with the locking tab locked over & still had a few millimetres of slop.Obviously not tightened properly when tab locked over. Was ok once I tightened the securing nut up. Similar kind of symtoms to what your experiencing Adrian

Be very cautous welding galv. As stated above remove as much as needed to weld to. The galv contains arsnic which is obviously lethal in a high enough dose. Had arsonic poisoning welding galv a few times in well ventilated area. Use an extractor if poss. Symtoms from contamination are very sore throat at the least & keeling over at the worst. Sore throat lasts afew days.Dont know if any fatalies have ocurred from process tho. Ive used galvafroid for paint exposed metal areas that have been galved. In honesty not the best product ive used as is quite easy to scratch of. Goog resistance to corrosion in non abrased areas but no better than hammerite. Ive heard that that Zinga stuff is excellent. Makes sure you follow application timings as seemed to make a difference to the hardness if you dont. Ade

Just renewed the pipes on my tbox & gbox today. Theres enough space to slide the new pipes thru the p clips without removing the clip. Select the best route posible(obviuosly) thrying not to foul any of the linkages Adrian

Rather than uprating the intercooler is it worth thinking about a turbo which will spin up at lower eng speeds. Ive been toying with the idea of moving intercooler from from grille to above the engine area. Aka like suburu do. My only concern is the mounting of cooler & heat dissipation from the engine. I dont really think Im going to notice massive cooling benifits unless theres a decent air duct above the engine & vehicles travelling at speed tho.. How easy is it to tweak the fuel pump on a 200tdi, & does it req a gas analyser for best results? Adrian

With regards your comments.. Yes it was a short cut to mask a problem. I had an MOT to get thru & not enough time or money to replace the swivels etc. The swivels were pitted but not so bad as to fail an MOT. Oil loss was not excessive but was evident around the brake disc shround thingys.I had a spare axle sitting in the garage but again time was a major factor. Without getting into a slanging match of tit for tats, Its all to easy to critisize people suggestions to remedies but without knowing the full story behind the reason for doing so can be wrong to pass judgement. A point worth mentioning, is that after using grease to masked a problem.It has become evident that if grease does mask such a problem,Therefore is it advisable to continue using the grease on what is considered to be an axle without leaks & no known faults internally. I know for certain that I wont be using grease on the new axle that Im in the process of fitting & will stick with the common fluids. I think fortunately for myself that I have learnt the easy way by having a knackered axle to "test drive" using grease in that I now know that ep90 is the better option & hasnt cost me any failure in the process of using grease. Just hope somebody else will benefit from these comments Adrian

Kind of drastic I know,.... is there any way you can cover the crank journals etc & cut thru the conrod with a hacksaw. Maybe worthwhile unbolting all conrods & sliding the pistons up the bore, then you can clean the journals easier.Plug the oilways or tape overthem. As long as you give the bottom end a good clean after cant imagine there would be that much debris. Beats the cra.. out of taking the bottom end out. Adrian