ashtrans

In fact it's to mate to a V8 (using a stumpy bellhousing which has the 200tdi/series engine bolt pattern and then a series-box-to-V8 conversion ring). Complicated, but short! this is the shortest option but you will have to use the 4 cyl clutch I think as the V8 won't fit, Dave - you wanna run a tutorial day? If I get you guys to do the shaft, can I watch (anorak voyeurism...)?!? you are welcome to watch, Dave - do you do a telephone consultation service? I don't mind helping but I talk real fast when busy ! (must get one of the £1 / min lines !)

Hi, OK, LT 77 4 Cyl coming out, V8 ZF going in, 2 tricky bits are : 1) bellhousing bolt pattern, not only do you need to get an adapter ring for the block to get to the V8 bolt pattern but the engine to autobox alignment must be spot on, this is a thread in itself but the bottom line is the block to backplate and backplate to bellhousing dowels must be correct so as to ensure no more that 0.005" total run out. if you have more than this you will suffer from flexplate failures like clockwork. 2) starter ring / boss / flexplate assy, also must be right so as to ensure correct torque converter positioning, some careful measuring required here,

Hi Al, if you can find a good used R 380 (preferable a TD5, suffix L one) I can either talk you through a pinion swap or it won't cost you a lot if you bring it to us to do, about £ 75 labour + parts. If you want to short front end and you start with a TDi or TD5 you will need to change : Pinion cone cone bellhousing 1 special countersunk bellhousing bolt clutch fork pivot ball and mount two problems with the above conversion is getting a short R 380 bellhousing, as far as I am aware it (FTC4018 I think) is on factory back order but even if it is available they are about 300 + VAT, the readily available short pinion shaft is for the type 50A as used in the 2.5 N/A and 2.5 petrol R 380, these pinions have 21 teeth, the Tdi or TD5 pinion shaft you remove will have 22 teeth so you will also need to change the layshaft, the 50A layshaft is only available to fit the 31 tooth 1st gear, the TDi and the TD5 one have 32 teeth so you need to change this as well,

what was the final vote on whether to keep the post count or not ?

Hi, you can remove the input gear on both the crawler and the 1.222 LT 230 in situ, on the 1.222 you need to turn the intermeadiate gear until the tooth 'valleys' line up, then the gear will come out,

Hi, if it's just the mainshaft spline that has stripped and otherwise the box was driving OK we can do a mainshaft swap for £ 150 and the input gear which you will also need is £ 45, all + VAT, Dave

Hi Steve, bit more tricky on a RRc/ Disco I but if you have the axle number and advise if ABS or not I will try to work it out,

Hi, can you get the axle number and I will find out,

Hi, 3 types of CV's used on 90/110's, years are approx as they all go on axle numbers not year of build, Year 1983-1990, 10 spline diff, 23 spline into CV , CV was part number AEU 2522, outside of CV was 24 spline, thick early drive flange. 1990-1994, 10 spline diff, 32 spline into CV , outside of CV was 24 spline, thick early drive flange. 1994 on, 24 spline diff, 32 spline into CV , outside of CV was 24 spline, thin late drive flange.

http://www.autocd.com/autocd.html?q=10&gc=185&sha=0

Hi Will, I thought this too until we stripped a 200 TDI def front axle presuming it would have 2522's fitted because it had the older thick flange but found it had a 10 spline at the diff, smalled 32 spline at the CV and the actual CV was the same length as the 2522 but obviously accepted the 32 spline shaft, this was the one used inbetween the 2522 and the late 300/TD5 set up,

Hi, as John says, you neeed the coupling shaft with the longer spline, FTC5090 see here : http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_38.html

Hi Rob, for starters please advise what manual box you have installed now, preferably the serial number, stamped on the oval flat below the oil filler level plug, also, Please advise the last 3 digits of the second number down on the ID plate on the LHS of the autobox, I will warn you now, I don't think this is going to be easy,

see what you mean when I read it properly ! Yes it should be pushed to the 1/2 plane by the reverse plunger and then from the 1/2 to the 3/4 by the bias springs, they usually rest at the 1/2 plane when the plate breaks as the RH spring is stronger. The plungers can also jam in but unlikly to have both faults at once, Did you sort it out 'Trainspotter' ?

from the FAQ's on my web site : When driving my 200 Tdi Discovery\Range Rover the gearstick has suddenly become very vague and is flapping side to side. Why? Inside the aluminium top cover of the gearbox, which is secured by two large Phillips head screws, you will find two large springs which rest on a L shape steel plate which give your 3\4th bias gate position. This L shaped plate is very prone to cracking off where it is bent which will result in you losing the 3\4th rest position when in neutral and thus the shifts will become vague. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ. Part number is FRC9340.

Hi, I may be wrong but I think we are talking about a disco not defender, you need FRC9340, about £ 4, I would point you to an FAQ on my web site but the server died this afternoon and may be down for 48hrs,

not sure Al, 2 reasons : 1) the welding is very tricky, you need specific cast iron rods and some serious welding skill to get it right, and 2) I don't want to see pidgeon s**t welding and oil leaks and someone pointing to it saying it's an Ashcroft kit, load of c**p, this is not a dig at the DIYer but our welding guy has 35 years experience, a £ 12K TIG machine and we have only found 1 type of rod in the UK that will give a good result. If the weld is not good, the outer bracket will just crack off when the thrust pad gets a thump,

Hi Roger, I would do a reworked casing at £ 165 + VAT, exchange, this would be for the casing, studs, nots and thrust pad, Lara, I knew you delt with him, I didn't know he had a Lagonda !

Likewise ! I think we have only had one 4.11 failure, this was in the US and the customer admitted the shop that installed it wasn't sure it was right and it ran too hot,

Thanks for the confidence Tony and Will, I am also confident these CV's will prove themselves to be a quality product, Zed, the type of testing you are describing would be great in an ideal world but totally unrealistic in the real world. If all suppliers adopted this testing method I think all Defenders would be totally stock, I don't think you comprehend the costs involved. Yes they will be expensive but this needs to be weighed up against the hassle and inconvienience of changing stock ones, as Will mentioned if these save a few failures, they are not that dear but we certainly hope they will be 'fit and forget' for some time. We take testing quite seriously as some of you are aware, I very soon hope to add to our web site details of a hydraulic destructive testing rig we have made which will give conclusive comparison data on stock and aftermarket halfshafts and CV's. I think this will make very interesting reading, if you have any left over KAM, GKN, Maxidrive or other shafts just send them along for us to break!

£ 165 + VAT exchange, £ 25 core charge on the casing, please note you will have to turn down the OD of the diff centre to 164 mm,

Can do, if you are happy to do the install, we are doing this for a customer in Germany that does some racing,

Hi, you are right Jules, this is a strange one made with the series 4.7 offset, it is being replaced by one with 3.54 offset like this :

"Is the reason that the ring gear is narrower (is it?), meaning it can flex more easily and be pushed away from the pinion. (Cue slipper pad? - could this not solve it?)." the ring gear should be thicker in theory but I guess pegging would have helped, "Or is it to do with the number of teeth which mesh with the pinion gear at any given moment? (Less teeth = more force per tooth = bang?)" Yes I think this is more the case I guess 6 wheel drive only shares the torque out further, so that's another sign of it's weakness? Yes but this was a strange vehicle, not sure of weight but I think it was well loaded, [ By the way - apparently a crate arrived which I guess is from you (I'm abroad at the mo). So thanks for that - bloomin' nice of you to sort me out. Cheers. ] No prob but to be honest I don't remember making an invoice out to Astro Al ! "BUT... there's plenty of trucks on here have had good success with 4.75s (Read Bros, Tonk, Jez, Ripley,.) so while they might not be the srongest they are better than stock 4.7 and provide excellent gearing with 35" tyres and a 1.2 (or thereabouts) xfer box)." definatly better than stock and yes this may have just failed due the vehicle weight, I don't have any details of what it was doing, "For those like me on a tight budget I can upgrade one axle at a time (can't do that with 4.11s) and with the 1.2 xfer box I get a low first ratio of 56:1 and still have the options (without effecting hi gears) of fitting your crawler gears or an underdirve. So while I would accept a health warning, "not as strong as 3.54", they are clearly in demand and are on the whole performing well." agreed, fair comment,

! aftermarket 4.75 ratio, not sure who it was made by though. To be fair this was a very wierd 6 wheel drive, independant suspension, amphibious vehicle, quite heavy as well !