ashtrans

thanks for the replies, can I ask you to try driving in 4th, 5th or 6th with the revs at about 1200 or 1300 and try accelerating very very gently upto 1750 rpm and let me know if you get the surging at all, I think SteveG may be right, it's the 'anti stall' seeing low revs and load then raising the engine revs,

The RD57 does not fit the disco 2, disco 2 also has RD56's the RD57 only fits the P38 and 2003 onwards 110 rear,

My '07' 90, now with 350 miles on it suffers from two wierd things, 1) if you press the throttle a little when in neutral to get it above idle to approx 1500 rpm and hold the pedal dead still, after about maybe 8 seconds the engine speed drops back to idle, bit wierd I thought, 2) a bigger problem is when driving say in 4th or 5th at 30 or 40 mph on very low throttle, 1500 to 1750 rpm the engine will surge / flutter up and down about 200 rpm, race then die away etc, no faults listed on IDS, please can I ask others with an 07 to do test 1) and let me know the result, and advise if you have also experienced the surging at low rpm, many thanks for any feedback,

82% but I am no good at electrics and have has 2 glasses of wine !

Hi Alan, sorry, never done it, not very familier with the C303's,

I take it you didn't break the new diffs then Adrian !

this may help : LT230 rebuild manual

Hi get borroe steal two length of 5/16 unc stud by 6ins long and two nuts. the two tab thrust washers go into each diff side, hold in place with grease. the 'dish' washers go into the drive members (24/10 spline) concave face down, the inner preload thrust washers sit on the 'dish' washers with the thrust face up. i.e. the two thrust faces face each other when assembled. These provide the soft lock effect. these parts must be assembled with grease to hold them in place during assembly. The side clutches have a long drive tooth and this locates in the hold out ring. When re assembling use the studding to guide the two halfs together and use a half shaft to rotate/locate inner splines. This gets fraught sometimes as the inner thrust parts fall out. I will be here until thurs so call or bring it up if you need help. Ian Ashcroft quote name='Troddenmasses' date='Oct 8 2007, 11:33 PM' post='187781'] Ok then. I've had it apart, and can't really find anything wrong with it. The following parts were inside the casing: The only thing that I can think might be wrong were the bits in the very centre The top two are discs with a cross machined across the centre. When I took mine apart, the two discs (which fit against each other) didn't have the two crosses touching - they were one above the other - both pointing the same way. Is this correct? As soon as I know which way to put them, i'm going to clean everything in the parts washer then put it all back together and fit it back into the 90. If it makes more banging noises, we will know that i've done something wrong..... Any ideas?

Hi it is worth while adding do not overtighten the crown wheel bolts, common error, once past the elastic limit the bolts stretch and effectively become loose. The tab washer was used on the series vehicles with 3/8 BSF bolts but is 'soft' and under load deforms again ending up with 'loose' bolts when rover went to 3/8 unf they added a 'hardened ' washer. Do not overtighten, use a good thread lock on clean bolts. Regards Ian Ashcroft

on the defender TD5 the throttle pot has 9 pins labeled ABCDEFGJK, I understand it outputs a 0-5 V signal, so I guess one is earth, one is 5 V and another is the variable signal, not sure what the others are for. I am trying to identify which 3 these may be and wondered if anyone would know, many thanks,

swap bellhousing, dead easy. full strip to change pinion shaft, you need TUD102580,

Hi Ivan, I did reply, I just didn't have the answer ! I agree it's lift / front prop related, bit more reading here : prop vibrations when the prop turns it accelerates and decelerates, the bigger the flange angles the bigger the speed variation on each Rev, the high angle prop will stop the UJ bottoming out but will do little to cure the vibrations, have you considered trying a disco II 'double cardan' front prop, I think these are designed to address the 'speed' fluctuation and thus the vibrations,

As mentioned above they seem to work very well on the landrover vehicles when use on a transmission brake, I had a Audi TT a few years ago and after thrashing it through some Cotswold hills I parked it at the top of a hill whilst I went into a shop. I returned 20 mins later, looked up the hill and it was gone, I thought bugger it's been nicked until I looked to my right and saw it launched halfway through the window of a listed building, quite a sight, it had moved a bunch of the sandstone blocks like lego ! I should of course have left it in gear but I didn't for some reason and could only put it down to the discs cooling and contracting. Dave

Hi, the thread is there for gearbox assembly purposes, different shaft to the 2 wheel drive box, Dave

Hi, I think the most cost effective upgrade for the shafts and CV's would be to use the bush / spacer method of fitting AEU 2522's (as Tony mentioned) or fit early outers with 2522's together with a pair of our 23/24 spline front shafts, I have a sketch of this bronze bush somewhere if you would like it, as Tony mentioned this leaves you with the option of uprating the CV's later if required, you may want to look at doing the diff first though as the stock one will not last long off road, if you are keeping the car the only real option is to save up for an ARB, the 4 pin or Truetrac will cost 2/3 rds of the cost but the ARB will be worth the extra long term,

Hi, if the shaft is moving but the fork isn't, it can only be this grub screw,

Hi, this is a stock V8 flexplate FRC7081 with some extra hole drilled in it, as Jon says they break due to misalignment from a poorly made adapter kit, the M&D one will last longer but the underlying problem is the misalignment, only way to fix it is : leave adapter plate on engine, remove bellhousing from autobox and fit to adapter plate without dowels put mag mount DTI on crank and centralise bellhousing, bolt bell to adapter plate remove adapter plate and bell, turnover and ream an oversize dowel hole through plate into bell, fit new dowels and assemble,

Hi, I don't think the disco will pull it, the 1.2 is 15% higher than the 1.4 already and the GKN OD is an additional 27%, that's quite a lot even if you chip it, if you do it you will need the 38 tooth version not the normal 26 tooth one and I think you will also need to chop some bodywork from the rear footwell to fit,

I have the 3 CD's, about 1100 files in a folder copied from post 13 here : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4804&hl=rave to CD then uploaded, BUT no RAVE.exe file, any ideas what to do next ? or can I just send someone some money for some discs that work !

Hi, yes I used nero to write the image to cd's, i think that bits OK, just need to find the 'exe', will have a look in the morning, the CD's are at work, thanks for the assistance,

many thanks Neil, I will have a look for the 'rave.eve' on one of the cd's, sounds like thats what I am missing,

Hi all, I have downloaded the 3 files onto 3 discs from the archive section but I just have hundreds of separate images, is there meant to be some software to tie them together to navigate ? an I missing something ? many thanks,

very good, we had a sample batch which have all sold and we will have more on more on 6/6/7,

this is quite normal, the marking is caused when the inner tracks are induction hardened,

Where can I find the results ?