ashtrans

you can fit the P38 4 pin diff centre and bearings to a normal rover diff if you use a different crown wheel and pinion, TBH100050, it is thinner to allow for the different 4 pin diff flange face position,

if you use the RD57, you don't need the spacer ring,

Hi Jim, congrats on the new baby, looks like a well engineered bit of kit,

sorry, don't know, FYI CV strength, from our test rig : Genuine 2522 4154 ft/lb Genuine 300/TD5 32 spline 3447 ft/lb Genuine Disco II CV 3580 ft/lb note the DII also uses the small 32 spline where the halfshaft enters the CV, No, nice to know you hold me in such high regard ! we currently are not able to supply DII shafts and CV's but we are working on a design that should be so strong that I think we will be seeing more DII axles in challenge motors not just for this reason but also due to the suspension geometry being better (in this I am no expert). PS I think you will find there are plenty available and quite cheap to, the last one I bought was a good take off complete with good diff, calipers Etc and paid £ 200,

Hi, when we make a heavy duty ZF we use the stronger internals from the 4HP24 but use the 4HP22 casing and hydraulic control unit so we don't use the electronics, Dave

Henry's right, some you can, some you can't, please advise the serial numbers of the boxes you have and what you want to end up with and I will let you know what you can use,

not ideal, these will be the smaller 32 spline where the halfshaft enters the CV, not as strong as the earlier 23 spline AEU2522, I think yours will also be 10 spline at the diff, do you already have the front HD shafts ? if so are these 23 or 32 at the CV ?

what year is the front axle ? if it's a 90 or 110 this may help (I have not finished the rest of the section yet !) : http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/category_9.html if you scroll down you should be able to work out the axle spec, to cut a long story short the early AEU 2522 rover CV is recognised as the strongest stock one and will be OK as long as you don't lock the front ARB at full steering lock,

Sent by a customer in Iceland, this is a very good spec 110, it was delivered to us new from the factory, we fitted : Auto transmission Underdrive 2 x ARB's HD front shafts HD Rear shafts HD CV's then sent to them for the 'Icelandic' treatment,

hi, the part numbers for the gearbox oil cooler hoses are : UBP101000 UBP101010

Well we poped the 'pods' ARB apart and as expected found this : Did I say that ? it's taken ages, first we looked at machining it from solid ali, then making from round pipe with bits added, then we decided to have it laser cut and rolled then welded up with other bits, the photo shows our fabricated one and a new plastic one : I don't think it looks too bad, certainly not worth tearing your ARB apart to fit but if either you are building a high spec motor to compete in and want to rule out this weak point or if you have suffered the inconvenience of this failure then it may be worth looking at, the genuine one is only £ 14 + VAT, I think ours will be about £ 60 + VAT buts it's more about the hassle of changing it if broken than the money.

we are only able to offer the ARB or Detroit locker, I asked Tractech to make a Truetrac for the Salisbury but the minimum order was 100 units which I declined as although I would sell a few, it would take about 20 years to sell 100,

the preload on the bevel springs are diffrent between front and rear, I understand the rear has more and the front a little less so it does not mess up the steering, you can put a front in the rear but it may not work as well as a rear one would,

Hi, I think this is what I would term 'clutch rattle', from our web site : My gearbox rattles on idle, in neutral, with the clutch up This is very common on both the 200 and the 300 TDi engined vehicles. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. Often especially with a new clutch these springs are quite tight and a lot of the engine knock goes through to the gearbox and makes the gears "chatter" together when the box is in neutral and the clutch up, it goes when the clutch is depressed. This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R 380 as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch.

Hi Bill, I would guess that the 'A' clutch at the front of the box has burnt out, it will drive a bit when cold but when the oil gets thinner it slips, when badly burnt and the friction material has all gone they can friction weld, this may heve been what happened when it locked up, either way when they start slipping they usually need to come apart,

if you have a close look at the sump on the autobox you will find a hole at the bottom which is the drain and one on the front face which is the filler / level plug, fill until it overflows, start the engine, it will suck up the oil straight away so you need to then pump like crazy to replenish it, once it starts to stabilise, go up and down the gears, a few seconds in each position, check again, put plug in. test drive and recheck.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_46.html phone me, I'll post you a freebe !

maybe more common than I thought, I have emailed ARB in Australia but I doubt they do one, I will order one on Monday and get it fabricated in steel, doesn't look too tricky,

I'll remember that if you bring them back under warranty !!!!! I have seen a couple of the plastic cages break, if this one has the same problem I will look into making steel ones as it is obviously a weak point, not sure exactly why they break, I will have a closer look when this one is stripped and let you know what I find,

yes the 50A and the 56A 5th ratio's are different, not because the tooth count of 5th are different (they are the same) but the 50A has 21 teeth on the pinion gear (driving the layshaft) and the 56A has 22

hi, you are paying a lot of attention to the first 2 digits of the serial number but the last is very important also, the first 2 give the application, ie 50A is 4 cyl petrol and 4 cyl diesel N/A and TD but these start in the 1983 with the suffix 'D' 77 to the 'H' 77 and go upto preent day with the suffix 'L' R 380, they vary in strength hugely but are all prefix 50A, the 51A is the military 77, lower 1st and 2nd, run from D to H suffixs, the 200 TDi used the 56A, all were suffix G or H, replaced by the 44A R 380, J to L the 300 defender used the 56A R 380, most were J but go upto L the 300 military was the 58A, same as above but with an oil cooler casting on the side the TD5 was the 68A suffix L, europe spec (non oil cooled) the 74A was the TD5 def ROW (oil cooled) spec the 66A was for the MPI defender (Italian police) the 60A was the non oil cooled V8 def, 77 and 380, G to L The 61A was the oil cooled def 77 and 380 G to L I think that covers the defenders, there's about another 25 to cover disco's and the RR just on manual boxes alone and the saddist thing is I know them all off the top of my head !

I love a happy ending for a gearbox in distress !

Hi All, obviously when looking at upgradings axles it makes sense to look at all options available as it can be quite an expensive process but I feel there are other factors to be taken into account : 1) compare like for like, you cannot compare £ 3K of rebuilt diffs, 4.11 ratio, pegged with new ARB's, ARB air comp, 2 x pair of HD shafts, HD CV's (with 5 year warranty on shafts and CV's ) and flanges with 2 x unknown toyota axles from the scrappy, 2) installation time, this really depends on how you value your time, some have more than others, the above rover axle parts can be fitted in a day, to swap 2 axles with all fabrication mods, locker install etc could take weeks. 3) parts commonality, should something fail or axle casing bend, it's fairly easy to get replacement parts. 4) transferability, should you change vehicle, you can switch uprated parts fairly easily. 5) axle weight, rovers are relatively light. I am not saying upgrading rover axles is the best solution and all other axles are a waste of time, I am just pointing out that to make an informed decision you need to look at the whole picture.

we have supplied some HD CV's for the rear and are now supplying some for the front,

Hi, I was sent these photos from a customer in South Africa, thought some of you may find them interesting, Dave