Ex Member

For the York, you don't need to add oil. If they are in good shape, they don't pump it out either. Ine has lost zero oil in 18 months. They DO put out a lot more than the Sanden style as long as you get a long stroke version.

They should save as long as they are named differently. Saved tracks are limited to a maximum of 125 waypoints each on that model (which is practically useless). There are pluses to mapping units. You don't "need" to have store bought maps. Turning your track data into a map is fairly easy. I do that around here. All of the local 4WD tracks have been made into one small map that overlays onto other maps.

I used a York from the junkyard. At least around here they are plentiful in many vehicles. $20 or so and it is in perfect condition. You don't need anything special. For the first year, I just hooked a hose directly up to it. I've since added a tank and a pressure switch, but they are not needed for filling tires. If you don't have room for a York, then any old AC compressor will do. Just add an oiler on the inlet or squirt some oil in before use.

With all due respect to what has been said........this is not a race car. For this application, the worst case cooling duty is at slow speed and high power output when off road. The air flow must come from the fan in this case. All that is important is that the fan is big enough AND is pulling/pushing as effieciently as possible through the radiator. Many high horsepower rig run the rad in the back where little or no forced airflow is available (this keeps them from plugging with mud). Because the rads are sized for this low speed condition, they are way oversized for high power road use where much more airflow is available. If you do not believe me, compare a car rad of the same power level and you will see it is much smaller.

I think you are misreading somewhere. 235/85 will definitely need trimming, regardless of lift. The interference is front to rear, so a lift does not help.

You need to trim. The best option with that size is aftermarket flares, IMO. With less backspacing (what you guys are calling offset ), you would need MORE trimming. Note that the worst interference is at full articulation. Some more information here. I should add that spring lifts should not affect clearance....they sometime do....but they shouldn't as wheel travel should be controlled by the bumpstops and the shocks.

I mounted in a separate cradle on to of a stock reinforced bumper. This does require adding bolting points to the front cross member. By mounting higher, I did not lose any approach angle.

Sorry, I thought we were talking about a cheap NON WINCH recovery choice. If you are mounting a winch, you can get a real bumper with preoper recovery point.

Can't you guys not get military bumpers cheaply and easily? I used one for years for front recovery. Always easy to access and hook up.

A bridle does not double the ratings due to the bridle angles. Also it moves the pull point in so the inner sides are taking all the load. Any attachment that is under the vehicle is useless in most situations as you are normally burried when needing a pull.

The problem is the bolt. It is a 10mm, 8.8 bolt in double shear. SWL is normally based on 20% of breaking strength. I'm estimating around 6400 kg to break the bolt in a perfect world. It really is too small for vehicle recovery. I never understand why people want to use them for that anyway. They are poorly placed and not really of the right level of strength.

Both my Rovers have (had) LT77 and they both have and do shift perfectly fine. As well as any other gearbox. Make sure you get the right fluids in there.

The tool I showed can sipe or groove. The blade turns over for siping. Professional siping machines mount the tire and have a powered blade. This sipes the tire fast. Unfortunately, it costs around $20 per tire and they will only do it if the tire is not used. So for the same price, you can have your own tool and do any pattern you want.

Planetary style winches have in drum brakes. They are used the hardest with powering out under load. The brakes should disemgage when powering in. The Husky is a worm drive, no brakes. 8274, external disc brake, spur gear drive. Milemarker, no brakes, relies on the hydraulics to limit speed. Planetraries: All Warn recreational winches other than the 8274 Milemarker electric winches. All Superwinch electrics other than Husky Ramsey except RE series. Most other no name brand jobbies........ Here is a sample parts view for a Warn XD9000, note where the brake is

Bloody hell, "extreme" situations . What a laugh. They have no clue. Someone should envitethem on a trip and see how it handle something real.

Viscosities of the oils in question are on my site. VMX has a pour point of -32, MTF is -45. Redline MTL has the best viscosity range of any of the MTF fluids I have seen.

It is quite common here for people to groove and sipe tires. The irons only cost around $100. Most people use these as they are cheap and work fine.

Ummm, looks like stock 90 travel at the most.

The Texaco MTF would technically be the same viscosity grade as a 0W30 motor oil and close to a 5W30. See here

Fridge, Fridge, that's not snow You could play ice hockey on our street the other day. You know your in too deep when you need a pull DOWN the hill like my friend did after this picture.

The story as I understand it (maybe Mr. Ashcroft can add details) is that the pump it not a very robust design and can be broken from the use of high viscosity lubes in cold weather. Trust me that the synchros are designed for the low viscosity. The gearbox will not shift in cold weather period with "real gear oil" as you put it. If you put in 75W-90 or similar have fun trying to shift below 10 C. There are lots of quality "gear oils" that have low viscosity and are designed specifically for manual transmissions. Here is a list of some.

His problem is driving EFI V8s. The idle control forces the engine to push at a "high" rpm. A good diesel or carbed V8 doesn't have this problem, IME.

The synchro are designed for a lower viscosity lubricant. In addition there is a pump inside the gearbox that is not designed for high viscosity lubes. MTF IS a real gear oil. So is ATF...... Auto gearboxes have gears too...... Most modern manual gearboxes use low viscosity lubricants.

Sounds normal. Make sure the thermostat is not leaking. You ran it with no working water pump? Hope you have not overheated the head.

I agree, front wheel drive is no better as long as you know how to drive. Tires matter. Modern winter tires are leaps and bounds better than any other tire, period.