Ex Member

I don't want anything sticking up on the roof. It will get ripped off very quickly. The trails we travel are very tight.

Why?

Husky. Nice and safe for lowering down hills.

Just go see Ashcroft. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ as good as anything out there wihtout changing to a different style of diff center and the most convenient for people in the UK. Chrome-moly 24 spline shafts for the rear with their en24t drive flanges and any decent 24 spline diff. For the front the same plus the chrome-moly/300M CV joints.

Just a suggestion as I have seen this on other sites. Most other sites similar to this have two classifieds areas. One is for private sales, open to any non commercial sales. The second is for businesses. The best way I have seen this is that the business accounts must be approved prior to use. They need to provide to the administrators full contact information so that it can be confirmed they are real and legitimate and also to allow their accounts to be suspended if it is found they are acting poorly. the commercial posters are limitted in the frequency of their advertisement posts and can not post in other vendor's threads. By having these separate areas, it is easy for people browsing to avoid the commercial ads if they want. This is one example.

Well, I have made mine fairly air tight. I like being warm in the winter. You see we need to deal with -40 to +35 C. Yes, opening the windows lets the air out, but then nothing flows to the back. The kids and dog die from the heat. Plus it is noisy as h$$l with the windows open.

Well, yes, that is what I'm thinking at the moment. I just need to do some hunting around...if I ever have some spare time.

Thanks guys, I'll see what I can drag up. The wreckers over here don't quite have Maestros and 109s lying around. I may just get some of the genuine ones and be done with it. I think I'll stop by a few RV (caravan) shops and see if they have any thoughts.

So where specifically can you get these nice upgraded pads? Any piccies??

So anyway, back to a solution... So the genuine vents are not the best?? Maybe I'll look for something move local, maybe a custom built thing. I was thinking it would be nice to be able to close them off in the winter. Maybe I should ask on the African section. They see the sun once in a while.

Really. This came to the front yesterday. 6 hours at highway speeds in 30 C weather. If I closed the windows, you could feel the pressure rise and the flow through the vents dropped to about a third of what it was. If you cracked the windows, you would just about get sucked out through them as the air flow went back up. It is unbelievable that a new Defender could be built with only ways for air to get in and not out. It must never get hot or cold over there in the UK...

Any idea how the later models are meant to let air out??

So I've gotten a hard top and for whatever reason, I guess LR stopped fitting vents at the back of the roof to let the air out. When driving with the front vents open, the air can not flow through the vehicle. It is a PITA for people in the back as it gets quite hot. How is the air supposed to get out?? Anyway, I've been wanting to fit some of these, but they don't seem to show up as separate items in the parts catalog, so it quite hard to figure out what to order. Anybody have an idea for a part number? Being out in the colonies it is hard enough to find strange bits like this. Alternatively, could someone rip some off from a wreckers and mail them to me.

Is this a used winch?? If so, take the brake apart, clean and refit. They have a lot of exposed bits out in the elements and can seize up or get sticky. Read here....

The failures on that thread are relating to the modified 2522s that Revor sells. ISUZUROVER is referring to the Longfield CVs that he sells.

Yes, just like that. IME, most hotels have free wireless networks so that is the easiest place to hook up. Most public area have pay as you go wireless. You hook up and it automatically directs you to a page to sign in or pay for an account. Free is better....... MAKE SURE you have a firewall running at all times.

Look closer. the front right and rear left wheels are 3 to 4 feet off the ground at the same time.

I should be nice to him as he has improved since then...... This is his current project, very nice.

Believe it or not, that is a local.... Man I shouldn't admit that.....

Why not just get one of the Ashcroft 4340/300M CVs to fit the later axles. Then you won't have to worry about breakage. The AEU2522, although better, still break.

Read here You need these.......

I assume that the axle design in question was from the Salisbury axle company and was alway commonly known that way. They are called the Dana 60 series in every other vehicle.

IMHO , a low viscosity gear oil should be the best choice. I think they have specified 30 weight as they want a low enough viscosity for decent low temperature flow so as to avoid power consumption and allow the oil to climb up the gears to the upper ones. They have avoided multi-visocsity, detergent engine oil since the additives are not the best for gear use. Back in the day, there was no such thing as a low visocsity gear luibricant, so engine oil was specified. Since today, a variety of these lubes exist, it makes better sense in this application. I am using Redline MTL.

It really is not meant to be a lubricant. It is a "Water Dispersant". Most people use it as a "Penetrating Oil", but IMO, it is carp for that application..... And there are better water disperants around these days too. Buy some decent spray lubricant for lubricating things. Buy some good penetrating fluid for freeing things up. You'll be much happier.

Ummm, there is no liquid in an Argon bottle.........