Ex Member

All you would lose is the one gear. It wouldn't be much of a weight savings.

Apples and oranges. Mountain bike frame are purposely made as light as possible without them failing too often. Racer do NOT EVER run a frame more than half a season because they will ALL break when used hard. For us, weight is not a big concern unless you are racing. Having the radius arm not collapse when emergency braking on the highway is a bit of a concern though.

http://www.ticonsole.nl/ Parabolic Springs, Series Disc Conversions, etc...

For most seals, they should be driven in until they can not go it further.

Comparing to later model 24 spline shafts (RR/Disco/Defender 90), they are not necked down and the material is harder. At the moment, 2.5 NA and Detroit locker on 32s, but that will all change. What I want to hear is who has broken them and in what situations and setup. I am well aware of the strength limitations of later model shafts and of the various aftermarket brands. What I have not heard of is people breaking these genuine "HD" shafts, so want a feel for their relative strength.

So I have an ex-MOD 90 with the stock 4 pinion rear diff and "HD" shafts. What are people's experience with the strength of the shafts. They appear better built than the later model 24 spline shafts. Are people breaking these and if so how easily? Feeligns on strength bersus later model 24 spline shafts and against aftermarket 24 spline shafts??

Every one I have seen reads 10% high on 32" tyres.

Dual group 34, Exide Orbitals. Deep Cycle/Starting spiral wound AGM batteries. $340 CAD, say 170UKP.

Maxi-Drive do one. They do a 4.34:1 and a 4.6:1 set.

They are the link below. You may need to sign up to the group. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/milita...Wiring%20Diags/

Quieter, easier on the electrics (alternator, fan motor and such). Fully waterproofed and outdoor rated. Allows you to run a big high output fan without any fuss. The "normal" route is a thermostatic switch and large enough relays. Most relays are not waterproof and thus you need to run heavy wires into a dry area.

If you are looking for an electric fan controller, these are the cat's pajamas.... Full variable speed control, 35 Amps continuous rated, override switch for 50% speed operation. Other options and pricing here.

Hang on, I did not check your link. That lists a 3.5" unit. The standard gauges are 52 mm (2-1/16"), so to fit that one you'd need an alternate location.

Yes, I have one, they are fully adjustable. If you do not have a tach lead on the alternator you just need to tap into one of the raw AC signals from the stator. This picture is my alternator. The blue wire goes to the tach. Any of the 3 main posts will work.

Stazworks Double Custom Beadlocks

The Garmin mapping software is quite nice and cheap. On the PC you can use the cheaper Metroguide Europe with Nroute. If you want to autoroute on a GPS or PDA, you need the more expensive City Select. Metroguide Europe Nroute I have an iQue 3600 which is great as it is small enough to be positioned for viewing and use while driving plus gives the full voice prompts when routing. But I know other sthan use nroute and it works well. Most of them (here) get the GPS 18 as it come bundled with City Select NA for the SAME price as buying City select alone...

Right here

That is it, the perfect snorkel tube material.

4" schedule 80 stainless pipe. It'll be the strongest part of the truck.

Well maybe we should start a list of what is right, it would be shorter...... They "could" make a nice well designed and popular model that is tough and well designed for off road use if they wanted to. But they won't. The current Land Rover has no iterest in ever designing an off road capable vehicle.

Try the Search Feature Even Google Works OK, here you are.....just to be nice.

Bumper is reinforced with 1/4" plate in the back and at the bolts. Bumper and recovery ring bolts are all 1/2" grade 8.

I don't think so. If it has a good motor, gears and brake, you should be good to go. I think you guys are getting screwed..... You don't "need" a new expensive motor. The lower housing kit was $20, I think. Brake kit $30. Around here I can pick up a good working used unit for $400 anytime.

Parts diagrams here Rebuild writeup

Just make sure none of the major parts are broken or missing. Most parts other than the regular rebuild ones are fairly pricey. Plan as a minimum to rebuild the brake and the lower housing.