jimmy_neutron

My van has never caused me any electrical problems .. but i suppose it's now over 18years old. How long do the electrics realistically last as i don't want work that i don't need but want it to last as well ?

I had it on the ramps and everything else looked ok ... was it only when you started knocking things around that you noticed the other problems or could you kind of see it all anyway ?

Took my 200tdi 90 for its mot.... It passed on absolutely everything except for the chassis I've ordered a new galvanised chassis from marslands. I got a 200tdi front with a td5 rear so that i get the proper mounts for my rear tank. Anything i need to know or any advice about doing the job ???????????

I built a short R380 by changing the pinion and making a bellhousing shorter than the standard lt77 one. I'm not sure if what you are doing will work but i can tell you that different suffix R380's have got different number of teeth on the pinion cog.

The speedo cable can be used on the td5 box. just swap the magubbins over

Its a plunger type sensor that is on the drivers side of the transfer box. It only a single wire and if this wire wears through or is grounded then your dashboard light will come on.

many years ago i got a cheap plastic alignment tool with a clutch kit and it was fine until the dog chewed it. Now i just use my finger to align the clutch and strangely i've never had a problem

Could be running rich at tickover. Set up the injection pump.

If you have still got the rack from the 110 then just fit that and make some legs for the front.

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Long journeys do seem to kill the seals on the LT77 and R380. Best thing to do is to get and oil cooler fitted. I got the plate for the side of the box from ashcrofts and got an oil cooler from the bay. Then just get some pipes made up and the job is done.

Les, I went through a similar thing with my 200tdi which i know is different but in some ways the same if you know what i mean. I replaced the pump for cheap ones twice and they lasted a while. Then i replaced it again but this time i forgot to fit the black plastic spacer plate. It lasted about a tank full. Then i fitted a genuine from landrover and it cost loads but its lasted. So i'd say check to see if you too have changed your pump at 10 at night tanked full of ale and have also thrown away a vitally important thing like a packing plate and then fit the genuine pump. Electric fuel pump is a really bad plan as insurers will see it as a change in safety case. For example if you are in a head on collision lets say and your fuel line is severed then your I/P will drag in air and your engine will cut out causing the current fuel pump to stop pumping which is good. Then think of the same scenario with your electric pump. Cars with electric fuel pumps normally have some kind of fuel pump shut off shock sensor. Some are under the boot lip , some are beside the footwell, and more modern ones can be triggered by the clever airbag system.

Yes thay can rattle away for a while depending on how bad it is but realisically you are just putting off the inevitable which normally ends in tears. The place to go is Ashcroft Transmissions (ashtrans on ere). It'll cost you, but theres nothing worse than dragging a gearbox in and out two or three times just to save yourself a few quid. If you want a quick solution then you could maybe shim behind the nose cone but this is not really the done thing.

Its hard to diagnose without seeing but if it was me i'd drop the water pump belt off and start her up just for a second or two to see if you still get the chirping noise. At a guess you won't which will lead you to the water pump. When the bearings fail in the water pump they can chirp a bit. The other thing that happens is that they can sometimes dump coolant very slowly when running and dump a load just after switching off the engine. This can cause an air lock and even cause the water pump to cavitate. As the coolant sensor is close to the water pump, the sensor can end up reading the trapped air temperature rather than the coolant temperature, this explaining the needle jumping around. The worry of this is what other damage may of been done whilst overheating

It always tends to come down to how much you want to spend... I have a 200tdi and find no great problem with it. I've also driven a 300tdi and found that there wasn't much difference between them in terms of cabin noise or performance. The 200tdi is often stated as the strongest engine but if your getting a second hand one then I'd say just get the best engine you can lay your hands on at the time. If you are going to be doing alot of motorway miles then i'd definately fit an R380 gearbox with an oil cooler otherwise your gearbox will leak oil and wear out very quickly due to excessive heat. Also as someone else said fit a transfer box with 1.22 ratio like the 300tdi disco then tweak the fuel pump just a little. As mine is a 1991 i made a short R380 so i could keep the engine in the same place. Best R380 to get is a suffix L from a TD5 defender. This will give aprox 20% increase in gearing when both boxes are combined making everything much quieter and much more usable everyday.

maybe .. or there was no longer any coolant at the sensor which causes the gauge to read low and then something died.

If ya follow my link its in there somewhere

Stating the obvious a bit but even a standard arm should last longer than a couple of years. As for the other parts then you do get cheap carp ens but even they should last. A few simple things to look at ... 1) The shape/ condition of the arm's pivot ball. 2) The clutch not fully disengaging. This can be caused by knackered slave cylinder, master cylinder, Slave cylinder push rods being too long. Or more likely which would explain everything that you are getting is that your short piece of rubber hose down by your slave cylinder has collapsed internally blocking return flow to the master cylinder and releasng debris into the system. I don't suppose your clutch fluid is black ? This would explain you eating clutch parts rapidly. 3) The other thing it could be although unlikely is that you have got a short R380 gearbox on your 200tdi. The reason i say unlikely is cos you don't sound that lucky. The way to tell is that reverse will be below 5th. If this is the case and someone fitted the standard tdi clutch release bearing then the clutch will not fully release and cause endless problems.

If they have only been on for 3000miles then there's a fair chance that thats it. Before replacing then you could try some redex but realistically you probably got a tiny bit of carp in the pipe when you last changed em.

You could always make a vertical brace then the shoulder part of the belt will actually be at the right height and not be trying to drag the poor passenger downwards. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry234123

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry235746 You will need to let your insurance company know. Mine weren't interested as they are genuine landrover items. Hideous but true

Depends what your going to use it for .. If your never going to drive it then an n/a will be fine. If your going to drive it alot then go for the TDi. If you can get hold of a good 200tdi from a defender then i'd be fitting that. They are a little bit noisier than the 300tdi but in my opinion a slightly better engine. If it was my built, then i'd be getting the best Tdi engine i could find and mating it to an R380 suffix L gearbox. Now theres a plan my mrs is gonna kill me Sorry for the return question, but i've never own a series. How do they drive on the road ?, say if i had a series 2 or series 3 with leafs and a good tdi with good gearbox, will it drive on the road like a good defender or will it be sloppy?

Just sell it un then it'll never cause you problems again

Get a clear BIC pen and chop the ends off then insert this into your fuel line just before the IP then you will know if you are getting excessive air in fuel or fuel starvation.

I've got a 1.2 transfer box on my 200tdi. It increases the gearing by about 15% so it may need dropping a cog when going up hill or just sit at a higher speed and its ok . To run this ratio transfer box you so need a boost and pump tweek to get the best out of it.