SteveRK

If your Lambdas are the same as for the Classic 3.9 then they have three wires - this includes the heater feed for the Lambda as they need to be heated in order to output a voltage - if this pin 33 is for the heater element then it may be that the Lambda is not heating (faulty) and therefore will not operate properly - if at all.

before removing injectors remove its plug and check for resistance - i cant remember whether they are around 1 Ohm, or 4 Ohms. compare the injectors on the faulty bank for a noticeable differance (1 or more Ohms is enough to indicate a problem with an injector) - it would be wise to also check the resistance back at the ECU but you will need to know what pin outs to check etc.

If when driving in a straight line forget wheel bearings, they can be identified when cornering. Grating & rumbling sounds more like the engine, gearbox or exhaust rubbing against something connected to the bodywork. Does it vary in 'pitch' with speed or engine RPM? if not as above, if it does discount above.

I changed mine recently as they looked very tired. After removal they were actually in very good condition - the cracking around the outside implied they were rotten but they far from it - perfectly usable condition. Change a couple of easy to reach mounts first - you might find the same

The crankcase breather pipes that connect to the inlet plenum chamber will be enabling the engine to continue to run i suspect. mines hot-wire so likely to be different but your connections will include: fuel pressure regulator connecting to rear of plenum chamber idle speed stepper motor link pipe from rear of plenum to air intake adjacent throttle butterfly brake servo take off at plenum chamber heating system vacuum reservoir at plenum chamber to n/S inner wing spherical plastic object Crankcase breather from O/S rocker cover to T piece that connects to plenum ch' & throttle housing Distributor vacuum advance to throttle housing

I knew it would happen - commence escalation procedures - offside rearmost head bolt slipped on the socket and rounded the edges so engine out. The bolts were so tight i had to use a motorcycle stanchion slid over the end of a half inch socket wrench to get the leverage.

Stick with Air - mine has been previously converter to springs and whilst I have not driven an air-assisted Range Rover the ride (comfort wise) on springs is rubbish.

You have a loose catalytic converter. Get underneath with the engine switched off and give them a bang with the side of a clenched fist- Do Not use a hammer (they are brittle/fragile) or you could damage an otherwise o.k. cat.

The MOT guidelines were if I recall corrosion within 300mm of a 'load bearing member' would constitute an MOT failure. If you have access to a welder then so long as the weld is 'continuous' then go for it as it needs filling either way I guess.

Gents Couple of questions i would appreciate some input on please - its that ol' chestnut Rover V8 cylinder heads! Pulled the nearside head off today, well not literally but took a short cut and left the inlet manifold on. 170,000 miles on clock. do the brownish the marks on the inlet manifold side indicate leakage?? and what seems strange is that the tin gasket protrudes into the bores - almost as if it has a smaller bore (3.5 lire?) gasket fitted??? The front inlet manifold port indicates a leaking injector as there is a cleanish line in the inlet track where it joins the head. The cleaner part of the front piston might validate this? I had all the injectors 'serviced' a 1000 miles ago so I hope this is evidence of a historical problem, not current. all the valves seem to be in remarkable good condition with no obvious signs of leakage.

Glad its sorted - & good detective work checking that impeller clearance, bloomin' pattern parts strike again! I wonder how many other owners have done this and just put up with poor heater - and ultimately poor cooling in extreme conditions.

I'm not sure if this is true but I have read this on several sites: "the voltage at the coil will climb until the spark plug electrode 'arcs' at that point the voltage will be the voltage that the coil needs to produce. Therefore a standard coil will be delivering the same voltage as a coil that has the potential to deliver a larger voltage" Its appears that its only if you increase the plug gap or raise the compression that a higher voltage will be required for the electrode to 'arc'. If the engine is standard, then a higher voltage coil will make no difference?

Try disconnecting the 'cold' hose whilst the engine is running to see what happens. try raising the front of the car to see if its an air bubble in the heater matrix try disconnecting the 'hot' host from the engine to see what happens Its got to be either a water flow restriction somewhere, or an air bubble I would have thought. It may be that on the pay & lay day the car was inclined up or down a steep enough gradient to dislodge either an air bubble or some blockage??

I think you will find that water has gotten into the EGR valve and is causing a problem. The ECU is not getting the correct feedback when the EGR is meant to open, hence error code and engine not starting. Feedback on Mercedes engines (I'm not familiar with how LR engines work) means that when the EGR valve is triggered to open the MAF (air flow sensor) shows a corresponding reduction in air flow as exhaust gases are admitted into the inlet manifold thereby reducing the amount of fresh air entering the system via the MAF. If the EGR valve doesn't open then the MAF sensor doesn't show any reduction and the ECU flags an error and puts the engine into limp mode.

The bleed hole is very small and is positioned in the reservoir in line with the piston. It is positioned to be behind the seals and main entry hole to the piston. I had a motorcycle once where this hole got blocked and caused the brake to bind on. I'm guessing its function is to allow the psiton to return back fully in the cylinder

If the replacement master cylinder was a used part make sure the tiny bypass bleed hole (in line with the main feed hole) in the reservoir is not blocked as this can cause locking brakes. If its new then i can only guess that a valve inside the ABS unit is blocked, certainly sounds like a real frustrating situation thats going from bad to worse.

Have you checked that one or more pistons are not being sucked back in when releasing the pedal creating a gap between the piston and pad thereby creating the impression of air in the system - unlikely culprit but worth checking. If its down to air my bet would be a bubble somewhere in the rear brake pipe section - try opening up the rear bleed screws and really stamp on the pedal then bring it up 2/3 then stamp down again to try and dislodge the bubble. There is some kind of compensator on these models for the rear brakes and on mine it would require ignition on and lots of pressure to get fluid to pass through to the rear calliper bleed nipples - might be worth unscrewing this a few turns on the reservoir side first to see if any air is trapped on that side of the compensator.

Gents Is anyone going to try and help this new member who is trying to ask a genuine question? Or is it too late and he has decided that this is not a forum for him?

see piccy below showing what items/panels i removed as part of the replacement (rear wings etc) My floor was rotten around the edges where it joined the inner floor and rear cross member so cut this out at the same time. A spot weld drill to remove the numerous spot welds is recommended. It all depends how far you want to go, typically a rotten rear cross member is part of a wider rust problem - on mine the intermediate cross members (shown replaced in the piccy) needed replacing as well. Rear, and intermediate cross members will cost around £150 upwards in total. If you only want to tackle the rear most cross member i would consider local cutting out and welding in. There are numerous posts on this topic with lots of pictures (not for the faint hearted)

two examples of bad experiments gone badly wrong - utter rubbish - but someone, somewhere is still going to buy them for sure - worrying to say the least-

Sorry to hear but I understand your frustration - better to walk away from it rather than continually throw good time and money at it. However, before you do it might be worth removing the screws that hold the throttle pot to the manifold and try rotating it anti-clockwise in increments to see what effect that has.

I would check that the gearbox breather is not blocked

Throttle position sensor? i fiited a new *hitpart unit recently that caused the engine to stall over 1500 RPM - the resistance was all to pot. I'm still waiting on a refund.

I feel your pain#! stick with it. Why not go back to basics as this problem is certainly not playing the game. remove the thermostat - this will eliminate the 'when engine is hot' factor even better attach a cold water hose to feed the radiator or other feed on the cooling system - whilst draining an equivalent amount of water such that cold water is constantly circulating the engine disconnect as many sensors as possible so that the engine will still run and monitor the engine characteristics over time - not temperature (with thermostat removed)

Having bled the clutch if you have an inch or more free play before resistance is felt i would suspect the master cylinder seals are worn out. My clutch was fine until i bled it - then i had free play and would not engage gears - seems that bleeding it resulted in the already seals giving up.