SteveRK

Yea I hear wat' you say, good ol' Britpart! actually more likely China Part though as they won't be made in the UK as manufacturing here is a shadow of its former self! I still stand by my above post though so long as the bodywork and axle is aligned symmetrically then it can only be due to the springs settling differantly under the weight of the vehicle. Of course this assumes that the weight distribution inside is the same on both sides?

I have just finished a front axle overhaul and my front springs still had a Britpart label attached and one is around 3/8" taller than the other. They were fitted by a previous owner and have not covered a lot of mileage. If your suspension mounts on the body and axle are the same relative heights then i would suggest the only way to get to the bottom of this is to remove the springs and apply approx' 150lb weight to them as this is the approx' figure per inch compression to be expected and compare deflection between the two.

If you have reguarly been using a tap (thread die) on a drill then i suspect your threads will be clean but quite worn by now with clearences between the bolt and threaded hole. You dont need a drill to clean threads. Thread lock is only effective on close fitting screw to thread clearences, it doesnt set much in open voids/air.

If there is no kickdown then thats clearly a gearbox problem. I'm no auto gearbox expert but with a load on the vehicle in 4th the engine will be less able to 'rev up' and this will have some kind of knock on effect with oil in the torque converter. There is an oil filter in the gearbox sump that I have heard reports needs replacing eventually it may be down to restricted oil flow through the torque converter generating this problem of reluctance to kick down. There may also be engine power related problems as well compounding the overall lack of torque but it does sound like the gearbox is not behaving as it should.

Regarding the kick down not working ive had older autos where above a certain speed it didnt wont to kick down. Never really sorted the problem but you could try shortening the kickdown cable a little bit using the adjuster at the throttle housing end. Tightening the cable should make it more prone to kick down

bear in mind you will be buying the accessories, not the discovery at that price. The Disco itself will likely be very tired and rusty underneath

I think you will find that what you think is 'pressure' in the cooling system is in fact vacuum. When the water is hot pressure will increase, when it cools down it will reduce. what you can have is coolant leaking into or out of the engine when its hot and under positive pressure and then as it cools the leak stops but you now have reduced coolant in the system with a sealed cap that only vents under positive pressure, hence a partial vacuum.

A blocked oil filter will have no effec, assuming the pressure relief valve in the pump housing is operating correctly. One, of its uses is to bypass a blocked oil filter. I think you will find that the 2.25 switch fitted needs replacing based on what your post states (it was fine before fitting it)

Its not the bulbs that are the problem, its the lens in the bowl that causes too much 'scatter' It find it extremely tiring when people upgrade with CE approved modern lights as whilst legal the beam direction is poor. This i believe is starting to be addressed by VOSA. My daily car has standard HID headlights that are only 40 watts as factory fitted along with a mercury self levelling setup. Result is a very clearly discernible beam pattern that does not dazzle or produce scatter.

As per Team Idris. You will likely find some more adjustment from the steering rods and steering box drop link arm to centralise the whole steering linkage (sounds like it has become offset to one side) This may require a tracking alignment check afterwards if you are not able to check yourself.

In order for the spring around the pump to do anything it may be seating onto a washer that is somehow fitted into the housing, possibly just a slight reduction in the housing bore above the lower piston. If so being steel its probably just corroded to the aluminium housing.

If full throttle is fine then i'd do as Mikey suggests and start investigating the various sensors and other parts of the fuel injection systems

Connect an analogue AVO style meter to the relevant pins on the ECU, or at the Lambda connector and monitor the sweep pattern between 1 (nominal) & 0 Volts DC. Then refit original Lambda and compare. As a general rule the sweep time from 1 volt to 0 volts is around 1/2 second to 1 second cycle rate. They don't waver or hang around the middle as the ECU is responsible for deliberately trimming fuel from over rich to under rich for various reasons relating to preserving the integrity of the catalyst converters. It may be of course that the heater wire feed to one of the sensors is not working as the Land Rover Lambda type needs pre-heating to work at low exhaust temperatures, or the heater circuit in the sensor is faulty.

coolant and or fuel sensors wont have any affect whenever the pedal is on the floor. At 3/4 or more throttle the closed loop fuelling goes open loop fixed fuelling. It depends what you mean by down on power? absolutely gutless or not quite giving the push that you would expect? So, key question is if you floor the pedal and keep it floored does it pull as you would expect?

Isn't the exhaust system under positive pressure though?

The backlash will be the same regardless as its all about mechanical wear and associated clearances. With the engine running it will tend to mask any tightness so i would do it non-running. By design & use the wear will be most evident around straight ahead. If you adjust for straight ahead then turn the wheel a full turn to either side you may find it tight/binds.

Nice job. I've had to do some of that welding on mine but nt quite as extensive as yours. I found that even though my welds looked continous i still needed sealer in some places to completely seal water ingress. Your welding job should certainly keep the RR going for a good few years yet.

Whats TBN? If 'they' don't test it in the UK I wonder why is that? Is it a case that Lucas have decided that TBN is the benchmark for grading oil quality? Only questions as I'm no expert on oil matters and tend to use well known brands of oil such as Castrol, BP, Mobil etc. without going inot the specifics (other than using an oil with an API rating above SE)

From my research in the past you cannot get bulb holders separately. They appear to be bonded into the panel and are therefore part of the panel assembly. I fitted 'similar' bulb holders with glue to resurrect my unit.

Dashboard gauges should be fed via a 9V or similar regulator to allow for fluctuating battery voltages. If the supply is less than 9V then expect gauges to drop. If there is a problem with earthing its likely to be at the sender unit end of the loom although even crappy earths wont have much of an effect as the current draw is so low for gauges.

I think you might have two problems, first is a weak mixture on idle so the natural torque converter load on the engine is stalling it. The second is a guess but should there be either a vacuuming pipe from the gearbox to the inlet manifold used for determining how much 'clutch band ' drag is exerted on the gearbox, and/or is the 'kick-down' cable fitted correctly?

What makes you think its a carburettor problem? To convert to injection will involve a lot of work regardless of the system. if its poor performance at low revs full throttle then its probably not main jets, could be distributor related. High revs poor performance could be main jets not correct?

Thanks for the info', i will check my wiring out to see whats fitted.

Thanks for the write - up. I'm interested to know where the thin wire is in the loom as I'm suffering with some of the same symptoms

Solder in theory can work so long as everything is spotlessly clean, the bigger problem is getting enough heat into the join to fully melt and flow the solder. If you have access to some of those old copper headed solder tools on iron shafts that get heated on a stove it should work. Brazing is prbably a better option though.