SteveRK

Well Done Good to hear there are still some manual gearbox versions still going! On cold starts if the engine doesn't start fairly promptly it will soak the plugs due to intentional over enrichment. If yours is a flapper type injection system which it should be then i would suggest the first place to look is the auxiliary air valve unit that should open to provide a plentiful supply of air on starting. This unit is very similar, if not the same as fitted to 4.2 litre Jaguar XJ series 3 models from 1979 to 1986 and is prone to failing or sticking. On cold starts the engine will idle around 1100RPM initially and progressively lower as the engine warms. If its not doing this then more reason to check this unit out.

Assuming the pressure relief valve is o.k. its time to drop the sump. To prime the pump will require more 'flow' (not pressure) than once the pump is primed. It may be that the gauze strainer has been partially blocked, or the O ring gasket on the pipe is not sealing such that for a 'primed' engine there is sufficient flow but when starting from scratch it cant quite get enough flow to remove air from the system.

If when the engine is warm and re-started it doesn't surge to 2000RPM and if when coming to a stop and selecting neutral quickly the engine speed is normal i would look elsewhere. If the idle control solenoid is sticking then its sticking cold or warm as a general rule. I would look for an air leak as when cold the engine starts with a lot of fuel and exra air would cause a big rise in RPM. If the solenoid sealing washer is leaking this could result in higher RPM for sure.

If it is nice and sound from a rust perspective its worth good money for sure, ....... however no matter how good a diesel conversion is it kind of reduces it to not a lot as the Range Rover is all about is 'heart' the engine AS WELL AS ITS 'classic' look. Take the V8 away and its just not got the same appeal. That's my opinion i know but that's why I bought one. They go together, the look of the vehicle and its engine, Separate them and you might as well buy a Disco, its all in the mind I know as there are some very practical reasons for engine conversion but to me they only drive the way they do and feel the way they do because of its heart

Am i missing something? I thought the 'symptoms' were not changing gear correctly?

I think the marking is very accurate - "wish" wash? clearly thats a clever disclaimer for when it fails to protect against a warranty claim

The first thing to check is whether the battery voltage is getting up to at least 12 volts as a minimum once the engine is running. Having charged the battery it has enough capacity to start but the ECU will need 12Volts to manage the various sensors and engine management systems. Normal battery voltage with engine running is between 13.8 and 14.3 volts.

I have a 1993 manual 5 speed RRC. It was originally fitted with air suspension from new NO air con fitted Velour upholstery with heated front seats but not electrically operated - leather seats might well be electric as standard ABS Cruise control (optional extra i believe) Remote central locking/alarm Sub woofwer rear speaker in luggage compartment Auto dipping rear mirror with built in map lights

I'm guessing that these wiper motor assemblies incorporate a 'parking switch' usually a micro switch that comes in contact with a cam on the motor shaft to determine when to stop the motor. Sometimes accessible from the outside of the motor casing. Suggest you remove the air vent panel on the scuttle panel and with a torch you should be able to look and get a hand inside to make sure that any wiring plugs are properly connected as a starting point. To get access to the motor itself will require removing the whole scuttle panel which can buckle when you try to remove it if its been sealed along the bottom windscreen rubber suround.

If there are lots (more than one) of tappets rattling away it might point to oil starvation due to a blockage - if it sounds the same as before they were replaced then even more likely to be a blockage somewher in the upper part of the engine, but heh' surely the mechanic would have spotted lack of lubrication?

The electronic ignition versions use 12V (no ballast resistor) connecting to a 12V coil. The plastic cover is not a must have so long as its clean (oil free) around the various gubbins to minimise the risk of archng.

Mines bolted and gone through 2 MOTs without comment. I fitted U shapped sections on the underside for rigidity:

With such a random ad occasional problem all the time the engine is running o.k. all tests will result in a positive outcome so what you need to do is to try and force the problem to occur. There are some relays under the front seats that control fuel and injection as well as the ECU. A wacky suggestion is to put a conventional fan heater under there to try and warm up the components as often solder connections can become brittle with age and act up as they warm up

If its cooler when moving it might be that there is a restriction on either the condeser or radiater. Might be worth having a look. I'm also assuming you have 2 x electric pusher fans that are running when the air con is on?

What is the temperature of the cooled air at the vents when the fan is on full speed? Air con engineers should normally check this as part of a re-gas or work to confirm that the system is working well. I cant comment on RR air-con as mine doesn't have it installed but logic says that the air temperature at the air vents at (maximum fan speed) on the dashboard outlets should match what is the norm for air-con cars. If it doesn't then there is a fault somewhere in the system. I seem to recall +3 Celsius is the standard benchmark temp' If the temperature is as expected then it will be down to the volume of air that the system can deliver & still maintain the expected temperature. My non-AC RR doesn't seem to deliver large volume so this may be the problem?

I would contact Land Rover directly. Its not going to change the world but I understand exactly how you feel. It is simply poor customer service. Whilst they technixally make a loss on small value items they win back overall. Its simply not-on for a parts department person to decide whether they should order in parts, or not.

If these cylinders are not reported as misfiring then could the 'roughness' be referring to 'knocking' or pinking? Do these engines have knock sensor/s?

Its well worth removing the rad' and reverse flushing it with a hose pipe. If you can make up a bung around the hose and give it full flow you will be suprised how well it can displace crud and sediment.

You could try this supplier: http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/catalog/Land_Rover_Range_Rover_Radiator-929-1.html

If your engine has catalysts & Lambdas then there will be no difference up to 3/4 throttle as the feedback loop to the ECU will ensure only the optimum (pre-set fuel map) amount of fuel is fed through the engine. After 3/4 throttle I guess it might pump excessive amounts of fuel into the engine and result in a few extra BHP but without the usual engine performance tweaks (camshaft, porting etc.) on a std' engine at best i would guess 5HP?

And do make sure you fill the tank to the brim and then at refill do the same as gauges are not that accurate in determining how much fuel is in the tank/has been used - an error of 1/2 gallon per refill is enough to make a difference in calculations over the long term

try turning the inner cable at the speedo head end to see if its broken and engaged properly at the gearbox end. If it doesn't turn then this implies its engaged at the gearbox. The inner cable has a square profile at each end so need to be carefully inserted at both ends to make sure they engage properly

One easy thing to check is that the kick down cable is attached and correctly adjusted at the throttle lever/housing on the inlet manifold as this is used for kick-down.

This might be of use: Zenith 361V Carb.pdf Zenith Carb flow_diagram.pdf

If its ignition related then check the low tension wires from coil to distributor and from ignition key barrel out to the coil. Stopping dead on carb' engines suggests electrical rather than fuel.